Personal Financial Planning
for Entrepreneurs
Manage Your Money Today
Maximize Your Money in the Future
Guidebook & Workbook
January 2022
INTRODUCTION & OVERVIEW
Money cannot buy happiness. But money can create options and opportunities for you.
The purpose of this book is to help you take control of your finances – both today and in the future
to help you have all the options and opportunities to create the life you want.
This book is NOT an entrepreneurial finance book. This book is NOT about how to succeed as an
entrepreneur. This is a book about personal financial planning for entrepreneurs. Of course, as
entrepreneurs, your business life and your personal life will overlap in many ways; and certainly your
financial lives will overlap. If your personal financial life is a mess, it will be difficult to succeed as an
entrepreneur; and, if your business finances are not under control, it will be difficult for you to
achieve your personal financial goals. This book will help you take control of both financial lives. In
general, this book provides some finance theory and concepts that will help you develop a long-term
financial plan – that can be applied to both your personal and entrepreneurial lives.
We encourage you to approach this book with an open mind and an open heart. And we encourage
you to make this experience as personal as possible. Everybody is different – and everybody has
different financial knowledge, different financial foundations and different financial futures. We
have tried to use concepts and examples that provide a variety of perspectives that will help you see
yourself in this work. But you have to make this experience about you and your future. Customize
this experience for yourself so you can take control of your financial future and create all the options
and opportunities that you’ve ever imagined for yourself – and for your business.
We cannot promise that going through this book and all of its exercises will make you a billionaire
or even a millionaire. But we do promise that mastering the tips and tools in this book will help you
sleep better at night, will make you less anxious about money, and will help you make decisions that
take your life forward. This book is designed to help you turn money from a source of stress to a
source of control. Now relax, prepare to think, and enjoy the financial planning journey to come.
PURPOSE & AUDIENCE
The purpose of this book is to help entrepreneurs – whether you are an ambitious high school
student or a retiree with a desire to turn a hobby into a business – become more comfortable talking
about finance and thinking about personal finance. Ultimately, the goal is to help you become
confident and self-sufficient with managing your own finances – from borrowing and budgeting to
saving and investing – such that finance empowers both your personal and entrepreneurial lives.
The first version of this book was written for college students. And many college students want to
become entrepreneurs. Since one of the themes of this book is to help you own your financial
future, and since most entrepreneurs want to own their professional futures, it only seemed natural
to design a personal financial planning book for entrepreneurs. This is that book.
Being an entrepreneur creates many unique – and challenging – financial management situations.
Many entrepreneurs start their business as hobbies, in their dorm rooms or in their homes. At first,
there is very little separation between your personal financial lives and your business financial lives.
This is natural. In some cases, it can lead to some helpful financial planning opportunities – such as
with tax strategies and working with family members. But it can also lead to many tricky financial
planning challenges – such as building credit, insurance, liability and working with family members.
The better you manage these opportunities and challenges, the happier you will be.
There are certain sections in this book that are designed exclusively for entrepreneurs, such as
Chapters 1 and 7. Chapter 1 discusses what you need to do tomorrow to take control of your
financial life as an entrepreneur. Chapter 7 discusses some tax strategies that may be of interest to
you as an entrepreneur. The balance of the book provides generic financial planning perspectives
that are hopefully useful to any reader; where possible, we have tried to put the conversation into
terms that are more relevant to entrepreneurs – such as with budgeting, borrowing and retirement
planning. In some situations, we ask you to imagine your future self, perhaps 1 or 5 or 10 years in
the future; exercises such as these can be useful to all readers, whether you’re an entrepreneur, a
student or a college professor. Try not to limit yourself – challenge yourself to think creatively about
your present situation and about your goals and dreams for your future self. This book is about you.
There are 8 chapters in this book. Chapters 1 is about the financial life of an entrepreneur. Chapters
2 and 8 try to help you think about money and financial planning. Our focus is on behaviors,
emotions and actions; we talk about the philosophy of money. We want you to think about your
own personal relationship with money. In Chapters 3, 4, 5 and 6, we talk about the technical aspects
of financial planning; these chapters cover: Budgeting, Income & Expenses, Borrowing & Debt
Management, Saving & Investing, and, Insurance, Retirement & Taxes (generally). Then in Chapter
7 we focus on some unique tax planning issues that will be of interest to most entrepreneurs. We
conclude with Chapter 8 where we introduce some general financial planning strategies to help you
own your financial future. We want you to think about both the short-term and the long-term. This
can be difficult for entrepreneurs – but it is essential for successful financial planning. As you go
through this book, we think you will come to realize one critical fact of financial planning for
entrepreneurs: everything is connected, for better and for worse. The more you plan and control
your finances, the better off your business will be. And the better your personal life will be.
This book is a public good. Nothing in here is proprietary. Please print it, copy it, share it, use it.
AUTHORS & COLLABORATORS
Most of this book was written by Brian Bolton ([email protected]).
Brian is a Professor of Finance and the Dwight W. Andrus, Jr. / BORSF
Eminent Scholar Endowed Chair in Finance in the Moody College of
Business Administration at the University of Louisiana at Lafayette. Brian
joined UL Lafayette in 2019 after serving at IMD Business School in
Lausanne, Switzerland, Portland State University in Oregon and the
University of New Hampshire. Brian earned his PhD in finance from the
University of Colorado at Boulder and his MBA in finance and strategy
from the University of Texas at Austin. As of 2020, Brian is a CERTIFIED
FINANCIAL PLANNER
TM
candidate.
Brian has been teaching finance, economics, business and leadership since 1999 and loves his job
because he gets to learn from hundreds of amazing students every year. And he loves taking what he
learns from his students in the classroom into the finance laboratory for his research pursuits. Most
of Brian’s research is focused on the relationships between the different stakeholders – or owners –
within a firm and how to design systems that optimize those relationships to maximize the value of
any firm. In 2015, he published his first book Sustainable Financial Investments: Maximizing Corporate
Profits and Long-Term Economic Value Creation, which studies the short-term and long-term tradeoffs
associated with making investments with natural, human, social and financial resources. Brian is
currently writing another book titled A Culture of Ownership, studying how organizational culture is
created and how it can be managed to create value for individuals, companies and societies.
Brian started this Personal Financial Planning project to help all of his students learn more about
personal finance, financial health and financial planning. As student loan debt has increased, as
various economic and social crises of the 21
st
century have challenged all of us and as the world has
become increasingly more complex and more inter-connected, it has become more and more
difficult for many people to take control of their finances and to achieve financial independence.
And having worked with many executives and entrepreneurs in various programs, it because clear
that there was a need to expand this financial planning perspective to adults and entrepreneurs.
Thus, this book on Personal Financial Planning for Entrepreneurs was born, looking to address situations
that are unique to entrepreneurs such that they can hopefully take control of business and financial
situations and to get on a path to financial independence, both personally and professionally.
When you read “I” or “my” in this book, that is coming from Brian’s perspective. But Brian (I) is a
finance guy and not an entrepreneurship guy. Many other UL Lafayette faculty have helped create
the book you have in your hands. Professors Geoff Stewart, Josh Bendickson, Chase Edwards and
Reed Nelson have helped make the entrepreneurship content unique. Professor Bill Ferguson wrote
much of the insurance section in Chapter 6. Christine Williams, Maria Slater, Rachel Sam, April
Jones, Kendall Laster, Mary Farmer-Kaiser, Philip de Mahy, Badar al Hamdani, Elizabeth Green,
Monica Long, Jonathan Shirley, Kevin Guillory and many others have provided suggestions, content
and direction to this entire project. If you ever see them Lafayette, be sure to thank them for their
contributions. Consistent with Brian’s passion for learning from his students, as you will note in the
Appendix, dozens of former and current students have contributed their thoughts and suggestions
on how all of us – students, adults, entrepreneurs – can take better control of their financial futures.
And this is the last time Brian will refer to himself in the third person. From now on, he is I.
Table of Contents
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
CHAPTER 1: 10 Things Every Entrepreneur Needs To Do Now
Separate Your Business & Personal Lives Build Your Team
Create a Business Plan Write Your Personal Biography
Establish Finance & Accounting Systems Document & Track Everything
Create Business & Personal Financial Plans Determine Your Financial Net Worth
Determine Your Risk Tolerance Communicate & Plan With Your Family
CHAPTER 2: Taking Control of your Financial Future:
Goals, Values & Financial Planning
What Does Money Mean to You?
Thinking About Money – The Lottery
Mindful Decision-Making
What’s Important to You – Your Values
Why Financial Planning?
Having the Right Mental Attitude
What Are Your Financial Dreams?
CHAPTER 3: Budgeting: Income, Expenses & Net Cash Flow
Saving for Your Dreams & Goals
Types of Budget Plans
Budgeting 101: Income – How Much Money Do You Make?
Budgeting 101: Cash Today vs. Career in the Future
Budgeting 101: Expenses – How Do You Spend Money?
Budgeting 101: Thinking About Spending Less
Budgeting 101: The Behavior & Psychology of Spending Money
Budgeting 101: Determining Your Net Cash Flow
Budgeting 101: Net Cash Flow & Tracking Your Income & Expenses
Your Financial Net Worth: Your Tangible & Financial Assets
Your Financial Net Worth: Your Short-Term & Long-Term Liabilities
CHAPTER 4: Borrowing & Debt Management
Paying Interest on Student Loans
Good Debt vs. Bad Debt
Student Loans & Financial Aid: The Nitty-Gritty of This Kind of Good Debt
Credit Cards: Selling Your Future to Pay for Today
Your Credit Score: One of the Strangest & Most Important Numbers in Your Financial Life
Making Decisions About Paying Debt
Having the Right Attitude About Debt
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CHAPTER 5: Saving & Investing
Assessing Your Risk Tolerance
Saving & Investing: What’s the Difference?
Saving & Investing: What’s the Difference? In Numbers
Investing – How Do You Do It?
Risk: How Much Can You Handle?
CHAPTER 6: Insurance, Taxes, Retirement & Other Special Topics
Insurance: What Do You Need & When Do You Need It?
Property & Casual Insurance Health Insurance
Disability Insurance Life Insurance
Income Taxes: We All Have to Pay Them – But We Don’t Have to Overpay Them
Retirement: What Are Your Options
The Lottery: Tempting, but Dangerous
Your Career: A Few Pieces of Personal Finance Advice
CHAPTER 7: Tax Strategies for Entrepreneurs
Choice of Legal Entity Track & Record Everything
Home Office & Personal Equipment Issues Depreciation
Mileage, Food & Other Business Expenses Charitable Donations
Self-Employment Issues Hiring & Paying Employees
Hiring Family Members Options for Paying Yourself
Retirement Planning Estate Planning
Strategies for Timing Cash Flows Effectively
CHAPTER 8: Strategies, Goals & Plans
The Psychology of Personal Finance
Some Financial Behavior Math
What is Money & What Does it Mean to You
Some More Financial Behavior Math
Your Values Drive Your Actions
Goal-Setting & Financial Planning Frameworks
Connecting Your Habits with Your Goals
Connecting Your Habits with Your Goals
What’s Your Financial Fitness?
APPENDIX: The Student Advice Wall
Advice from Current and Former Students
APPENDIX: Worksheets for You to Continue Practicing
10 SIMPLE RULES TO HELP YOU OWN YOUR FINANCIAL FUTURE
These 10 simple rules apply to everyone – not just entrepreneurs. In Chapter 1, we introduce the
most important financial rules that every aspiring entrepreneur needs to embrace.
1. Nothing is free. You have to sacrifice something to receive something good. Every benefit has a
cost.
2. Be mindful of short-term vs. long-term tradeoffs. Is a short-term indulgence worth a long-term
sacrifice? Top Ramen costs $0.25 per meal. Gourmet ramen can cost $20 per meal. You decide
what your priorities are.
3. Debt can change your life – both for the better and for the worse. Don’t let debt destroy your
life and determine your future.
4. Interest is your friend – if you are receiving it. Interest if your enemy – if you are paying it.
5. Save and invest as early as you can. Small savings today can create enormous opportunities in the
future. Let the magic of compounding be your friend.
6. Financial advisors and other professionals can provide excellent guidance to you – but they do
not exist to be your friends. You need to own your financial situation so you can know when to
reach out for help and to know what you can do for yourself.
7. Other specialist advisors may be able to provide services that you cannot do yourself – tax
accountants, insurance advisors, lawyers. They can help you execute your plans effectively.
8. Insurance seems really boring – until you need it. It is usually a very small price to pay for a lot
of peace of mind.
9. Accelerators, incubators, universities, small business development associations, economic
development centers, pitch competitions…Most cities have incredible resources for
entrepreneurs that are either free or very inexpensive. They want to invest in you. They want you
to succeed. Use them…because, ironically, once you succeed, you won’t have access to them.
10. Don’t assume that your parents or friends know everything about finance. By the time you finish
this guidebook, you will know more about personal finance than 75% of Americans.
And, because we like you, here is one more free rule for you that should govern everything you do:
11. Always make sure that what you do with your money aligns with your personal values.
Chapter 1: 10 Things Every Entrepreneur Needs To Do Now
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CHAPTER 1
10 THINGS EVERY ENTREPRENEUR NEEDS TO DO NOW
TO TAKE CONTROL OF YOUR FINANCIAL LIFE
This is a personal finance book. This is NOT a how-to-be-an-entrepreneur book. This is NOT even
an entrepreneurial finance book. This book is all about personal financial planning.
However, as any entrepreneur knows, there will be an enormous amount of overlap between your
financial life as an entrepreneur and your personal financial life. Much of your happiness and success
as an entrepreneur will depend on how well you manage the blurring of these two worlds. In some
ways, this overlap can provide some significant benefits – perhaps in terms or tax savings. In other
ways, you want to manage this overlap to avoid some significant challenges – perhaps in terms of
personal and business liability. As such, there are a number of actions we recommend you take –
immediately – to better position both your personal and entrepreneurial lives so that you can take
advantage of the potential benefits and avoid the potential challenges. This chapter is about just that
– helping you do what you need to do as an entrepreneur today to optimize your personal financial
life – recognizing that your personal life and business life will overlap constantly.
As we will discuss in Chapter 2, any conversation about a financial plan begins with identifying your
goals. What are you working towards? What are you trying to achieve?
The primary reason we focus on identifying your individual goals is because everyone is different; we
all have different personal finance goals. And all entrepreneurs are different and have different long-
term business goals. However, as we provide advice on balancing your business and personal
financial lives in this chapter, we assume that all of you share some common preferences: you like
money, control and flexibility and you do not like stress, liability and dysfunction. This is for you.
Happiness
Long-Ter m
Goals
Business
Goals
Family
Goals
Short-Ter m
Goals
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But before we get to philosophizing about goals and happiness and such, let’s get down to business.
If you are like most entrepreneurs, you are motivated by accomplishment; you get excited about
getting stuff done. So we want to start this book by giving you a list of items that you can do – or
should do – as soon as possible in order to take control of your personal financial life. Most of
these items are as much related to your business as they are to your personal life; that’s the point.
The two worlds will constantly (naturally) overlap; we want you to address these 10 items in order to
create both separation of worlds and alignment of goals so that your personal life and business life
complement each other, not compete with each.
Thus, in no particular order, here are 10 projects you should focus on – soon – in order to take
better control of your personal financial life…as an entrepreneur:
1. Separate your business finances from your personal finances.
2. Build your team.
3. Create a business plan.
4. Build your personal biography.
5. Get organized. Establish your finance and accounting control systems.
6. Document everything. Track every penny that you spend or earn.
7. Create 2 separate financial plans: for your business and for your family. Be specific.
8. Determine your financial net worth of your business.
9. Determine your risk tolerance – for both business and finance.
10. Talk to your family. Coordinate with your family.
We could have offered 20 more tips. But let’s just start with these 10. Some of these you may be able
to complete tomorrow. Some of these may require months of effort. And most of these will evolve
and change over time. If you begin taking control of your personal, business and financial lives right
now, there’s a much better chance that you will be able to both survive and thrive as an
entrepreneur.
A goal without a plan is just a dream. So let’s start planning, let’s start achieving our goals.
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SEPARATE YOUR BUSINESS FINANCIAL LIFE
FROM YOUR PERSONAL FINANCIAL LIFE
You have a personal checking account, savings account and credit card.
Now go get a business checking account, savings account and credit card. Get multiple business
accounts if you like. Maybe you get multiple business credit cards for multiple purposes – one for
office expenses, one for product or production expenses. It’s not a problem to have your business
accounts with the same bank or institution where you have your personal and family financial
accounts; however, it might be beneficial to have them at different institutions to keep things clean.
Why do we want to keep our business and personal finances separate? For many, many
reasons…here are seven (hopefully) good reasons to keep these worlds separate:
1. Tracking is much simpler. We’ll talk about creating your accounting systems in a bit; having
separate, distinct accounts makes tracking much more effective.
2. What if the Internal Revenue Service audits you – either you personally or your business?
Having separate accounts and separate records for each of your worlds will make it much
easier to tell your story. With the IRS, there is an implied “guilty until you prove yourself
innocent” attitude; having separate, clean financial/tax histories will help you prove your
innocence.
3. How are you going to tell your financial story to investors or banks? If I’m an investor, and
I’m looking at your financial performance, and I see personal activities and business
activities, I’m going to wonder how serious you are about your business succeeding. I want
to invest in the future of your business, not your 12-year old’s new braces. Keeping the
worlds separate will make it easy for you to tell the story of your business.
4. As your business grows, you are going to add more and more employees. You never want to
be paying employees – and social security taxes and benefits – out of your personal accounts.
Only do this through designated business accounts.
5. What if there is a change in business ownership? Maybe your partner decides to leave, maybe
you decide to leave. You do not want changing business relationships to compromise your
personal financial world.
6. What if there is a change in your personal life? What if you get divorced or get married?
What if you move? What if you bring your children into the business? Again, shocks like
these – which are very common – can affect both your business and personal lives. Separate
records can help such transitions be smoother than they otherwise would be.
7. Liability! We will talk about legal issues in the next section – and then again in Chapter 7. But
one of the most important decisions you have to make as an entrepreneur is how you want
to structure your business from a legal liability perspective. If there ever are issues in the
future, having separate accounts will make your life easier when that happens. You do not
want to risk losing your house should a customer not like the cookies or tables you are
selling; protect yourself.
That’s just seven reasons – as we go through the rest of this chapter, you will likely think of a dozen
more reasons to keep your personal financial life separate from your business financial life. You will
also see that all of these reasons connect to two issues: you want to protect your money and you
want to reduce your stress. Separating worlds will help you with both.
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BUILD YOUR FINANCE & ACCOUNTING TEAM
One of the best things about being an entrepreneur is that you are your own boss, you control your
business life and you control your future. You can wear shorts to the office every day, you can start
happy hour a 4pm every day and you can make every weekend a 3-day weekend. Of course, such
decisions may affect the growth and profitability of your business, but it’s still all up to you.
As an entrepreneur, you are responsible for all decisions that affect the business. That’s both good
news and bad news. In many ways, you will be a Jack-or-Jill-of-all-trades, responsible for strategy,
product design, sales, finance, legal, manufacturing and all other aspects of the business. Realistically,
there are going to be aspects of your business where you need help. You’re going to find that there
are some things that others can do better for you…and they can do without you giving up too much
control of your dream. Finance and accounting are probably two areas where you can use help.
We highly recommend you consider which finance and accounting experts can help you achieve
your business goals. By this, we do not mean you need to hire them as full-time employees on your
payroll; we simply mean find professionals that you can either have on retainer or easily meet with
periodically. You may have multiple meetings as your business is starting-up and then just quarterly
meetings as your business stabilizes. But you probably want their help.
1. Consider finding and hiring – periodically – a tax accountant to help you with tax-related
issues. And…hire them NOW. Do not wait until tax season. Do not wait until you have a
problem or until you are preparing a return.
Engage a tax accountant very early in the process – because then they can be consultants and
advisors, helping direct you to structures or decisions that will help you achieve your
business goals. The IRS tax code is thousands and thousands of pages long. You do not
want to know them all. Hiring a tax accountant as part of your team will allow you to focus
on the business issues and let them worry about the tax code. And, they should be able to
tell you about tax strategies that can save you money – both at the business level and for you
personally.
Always remember that you are hiring them, not the other way around. You need to shop
around; you need to interview them. If a friend recommends a tax accountant they have
worked with, but that accountant has never worked in your industry, you may want to
continue shopping around. As an entrepreneur, you will be learning about your business and
industry constantly; you do not want your tax expert to also be learning the industry at the
same time (or, worse, you do not want to be training them). Find an expert who makes your
business life and personal life better; they work for you, make them help you.
2. Consider finding and hiring a great attorney – even before you officially start your business.
They will be able to help you with structuring your business (e.g. bylaws and governance
issues), with deciding how to incorporate your business to minimize personal legal liability
from business actions, and with contracts and other legal documents that only authorized
attorneys are allowed to execute.
Again, you want an attorney on retainer or on speed-dial before you open for business. You
want them to help you avoid mistakes, not to (just) help you clean up prior mistakes.
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And, again, you want an attorney who knows your business and your industry. Some legal
issues will be common to all companies; but your business will have enough unique aspects
that you will want an attorney who really understands what you are trying to do. If you find
yourself training an attorney more then they’re helping you, you need to find another
attorney. Keep shopping around until you find someone who makes your life better.
At a minimum, all entrepreneurs should consider having a tax accountant and attorney as part of
your semi-permanent team. Do you need anyone else? It depends.
You are going to establish a banking relationship for your business. It never hurts to go beyond just
establishing accounts and try to establish relationships with your bankers. You may not think you
need debt or other banking services when you start your business, but having friendly and
professional relationship with a banker might make acquiring bank debt easier should you need it.
And, as your business grows, you may seek capital from outside investors. While that may be a long-
term vision for your business, connecting with angels, with venture capitalist, with incubators and
other potential investors early on in your business’s life might be helpful. You have to decide.
As a reminder…only bring in team members that help you. It is not your job to make them rich. It
is their job to make you rich (or to make your life easier and happier). Research them. Interview
them. Question them. And then put them to work helping you achieve your goals.
CREATE A BUSINESS PLAN
If you go through any incubator or entrepreneurship training program, you will most likely be tasked
with creating a business plan for your new start-up venture. Different programs will have different
ideas of what a business plan is. Some business plans will be 3-page summaries of the business and
its goals; other business plan will be 100-page documentaries of everything the business is and hopes
to be. There are lots of different versions; you have to create what’s best for you.
I would actually advise you to have two separate business plans (sorry) – one internal, one external.
1. An internal business plan is for you, your business partners and your employees. This can
include goals, benchmarks, key milestones and other strategic visions. This can include
margin, pricing, purchasing and wage information. This can include legal structure, bylaws,
leadership and governance information.
The purpose of an internal business plan is to help you run your business. It exists only for
you and your employees, to refer to on a daily or periodic basis as your business grows.
2. An external business plan helps you sell your story, your business and your products to
outsiders. This is a marketing and pitch document. This does not include any of your
business secrets, but it is designed to get outsiders excited about partnering with you. Maybe
you can use this to bring in employees, or investors, or big customers. Make it fancy, make it
convincing, tell a great story.
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You can decide whether this external business plan is a simple black & white or color
document you create on your laptop or whether it’s a professionally-designed pitch. As this
will be the primary way you tell your story to outsiders, you want it to be convincing; most
entrepreneurs will find that you get what you pay for and investing in a professionally-
designed business plan for outsiders will be worth every penny.
How to structure this external business plan? I would recommend having a 2-3 page
executive summary, that includes visions, goals, competitive advantage, people and some
brief financial information, plus 10-15 pages of detail. Nobody is going to read 100 pages.
People may only read 2 pages. Give them a great executive summary and make them want
more. Make it exciting, engaging and convincing. Help them fall in love with your business.
How is a business plan a key personal finance issue?
Because it will help you connect to outsiders – who may give you a loan, who may give you an
investment, or who may become an employee, customer, or partner. The business plan should make
it clear what the economics of the business are – how is the business going to make money. Being
able to tell this story – both to outsiders and to inside partners – will help you execute on your
strategies and will help them find ways to help you. Make it easy for others to love your business.
BUILD YOUR PERSONAL BIOGRAPHY
I’m a finance professor. I’m used to working with spreadsheets and financial statements. I’m used to
running complex calculations to determine what a business is worth and where value comes from.
As an entrepreneur, all of the value in your business comes from YOU.
You are, without question, the most important and the most valuable asset your business has.
Anything that every shows up on a spreadsheet or financial statement will come from you. Your
business will only have value if you create it.
Thus, being able to tell your personal and professional story will be a huge part of your business
plan, of your strategy and your operations. People – both insiders and outsiders – want to know who
you are, what you have achieved and what you want to accomplish. Tell them. Make them want to
become your partner.
Banks will want to see financial information before making a loan. But as an entrepreneur,
much of the financial information is really just information about you. They want to know
that YOU will be able to repay the loan…as the leader of the business.
Investors will be investing in you, not the operations or strategies. They want to know what
your goals, priorities and skills are. Tell them. Get them excited about working with you.
Investors just want to make money; tell your story to show them how you’re going to help
them make money…because if they make money, you’ll probably make money.
Customers, suppliers, employees and other partners want to know who are. They may not be
investing money the way banks and investors will, but they will be investing time and energy
in you and in your business. Convince them that the return on their investment of time and
energy will be immensely rewarding for them.
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Earlier in this chapter we recommended separating your personal and business lives. When
you create your business plan and build your personal biography, feel free to combine these
stories. Talk about your education. Talk about certifications. Talk about previous business
experience. Talk about your successes – and your failures – because you can focus on what
you’ve learned and how you’re going to grow. Be selectively transparent; never lie, but
assume people are going to learn everything about you eventually. Take control of the story
so you can build your personal biography into an asset for your company.
Being an entrepreneur includes a whole lot of storytelling. You want to be clear, consistent and
convincing. You are the most important asset your business has. Make it easy for people to fall in
love with you, with your story and with what you’re going to do with the business.
GET ORGANIZED
ESTABLISH YOUR FINANCE & ACCOUNTING CONTROL SYSTEMS
Quicken. Quickbooks. Xero. Freshbooks. Kashoo. ZipBooks. Sage. Wave. Excel. A spiral notebook.
There are dozens of finance and accounting software programs available to small businesses. Over
time, you may use many of them over the life of your business. Regardless of which one you choose,
one thing is certain: you need to pick something and make sure you have established finance and
accounting control systems from day one of your business.
Now that you’re starting a business – or turning a hobby into a money-making machine – means you
are bringing something very important into your life: Stakeholders.
With your personal life, hobbies and finances, the only people who have a direct, vested interest in
what you do are you, your family and your friends. Now that you are running a business, there may
be many other people who have a direct, vested interest in what you do: customers, employees,
suppliers, partners, investors, the bank, neighbors, the community, the city council, the Internal
Revenue Service, regulators, competitors and possibly the media. You never really know who will
impact your business – nor how.
Getting organized with your finance and accounting activities is essential – both for managing the
day-to-day activities of your business and for communicating your story to your stakeholders.
Establishing finance and accounting records for your business can…
…distinguish between personal expenses/income and business expenses/income.
…help you tell your story to key stakeholders.
…protect you from legal liability should some incident occur at home or at work.
…protect your family from unnecessary financial, legal or personal burdens.
…make sure you’re getting every tax benefit possible, for your family and your business.
…help you track every penny you make or spend.
As an entrepreneur, you may be more of a visionary than mathematician. But don’t be scared of
these systems. The first 2 hours might be a little painful for you. After that, every second you spend
organizing your financial and accounting worlds will only add to your business value and personal
piece of mind. Make that small investment up front to reap enormous rewards later.
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DOCUMENT EVERYTHING
TRACK EVERY PENNY THAT YOU SPEND OR EARN
Did you sell some items out of inventory today?
Did someone give you cash, as a tip or for your services?
Did you drive 20 miles to meet with a prospective customer?
Did you spend $100 to file for a permit?
Did you use a tool you got for your birthday 12 years ago to make a table for a customer?
Every activity you engage in – whether there are direct cash flows or not – can be considered an
activity of your business. Identifying and tracking every activity will be essential to you managing
both your personal and business cash flows.
The Internal Revenue Service has many rules that make certain expenses tax deductible (that’s
good). For example, if you spend $1,000 on your origami hobby that you intend to gift to friends
and family, you are out of pocket $1,000 and there are no tax benefits. But if you, instead, intend to
sell your origami creations for $2,500 online or at the community fair, then the $1,000 you spent
now becomes tax deductible (so your net expense falls from $1,000 to maybe $700 or $800).
What differentiates a hobby from a business expense? In general, the difference is your intent: did
you intend to generate a profit from the business? The IRS rules change periodically, so they may be
different depending on when you read this, but the current safe harbor rule is that if your business
earns a profit in 3 out of 5 years, then it really is a business for tax purposes and not a hobby.
However, if your hobby does not earn a profit in 3 out of 5 years, then it is incumbent on you to
convince the IRS that you intended to run this activity as a business, to invest considerable time in
the activity and to ultimately earn a profit. Tracking every penny can help you tell this story.
What about that tool you got for your birthday that you’re now using to generate money? It’s now
an essential asset of your business. In theory, when you started using it for business purposes, you-
the-individual transferred the tool to you-the-business and now the business owns it. Maybe you can
identify a price that the business paid for it (either with or without cash; there does not have to be an
exchange of cash for there to be an exchange of value). The business now owns it and the business
may be able to depreciate it…which means recognizing periodic expense which will reduce the
taxable income of your business. That’s good for the business. Of course, you-the-individual just
sold something for value, and you-the-individual may not owe taxes on the sale or transfer. But at
least now you have the cash flows and financial activities allocated to the proper entity.
Tracking every penny is not just for the IRS. It’s for you – and for all of your other stakeholders. It
can be essential for working with your bank, for protecting yourself from regulators, for creating a
paper trail for potential legal liability or for enticing customers and investors. Your accounting and
financial records can tell the story of your business better than anything else. Tracking every penny
that comes into or goes out of the business can make your story more powerful and convincing.
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CREATE 2 SEPARATE FINANCIAL PLANS
ONE FOR YOUR BUSINESS, ONE FOR YOUR FAMILY
You’ve built your financial and accounting team. You’ve legally and practically separated your
personal and business financial lives. You’ve set up your finance and accounting systems so you can
track every penny related to your business.
Now take a step back and ask yourself one simple question: What are your goals?
What are you trying to achieve with your business? Maybe you aren’t really using your business to
achieve any significant financial goals. Maybe you just really enjoy the work and you want to earn
enough money to cover your family’s bills and expenses. Those still count as goals.
So let’s do an activity: let’s make 2 lists:
With List #1, write down the Top 5 financial goals of your business.
Let’s think about both short-term and long-term goals. Maybe you want to get cash to pay for the
supplies you bought last week. Maybe you want to hire 2 new employees. Maybe you want to
upgrade your website. Maybe you want to move your food-cart into a 5,000 square foot brick-and-
mortar restaurant. Maybe you want to retire in 10 years and pass the business to your children.
At the end of this chapter, there’s space to include even more goals – and I would encourage you to
create a fancier list of your financial goals in some other document, possibly your business plan. A
goal without a plan is just a dream; goals lead to plans and plans lead to actions. Make some goals.
1. _____________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________
2. _____________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________
3. _____________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________
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4. _____________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________
5. _____________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________
And now let’s do the same thing…but for yourself and for your family. Try to force yourself to
make List #2 completely independent of your business – just focus on your personal finance.
With List #2, write down the Top 5 financial goals of yourself and your family.
1. _____________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________
2. _____________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________
3. _____________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________
4. _____________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________
5. _____________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________
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This is great. Well done. This seemingly simple exercise was probably not that easy; a lot of
entrepreneurs struggle with separating personal financial goals from business financial goals.
I would encourage you to make these goals – which will become your financial plans – as complete
and specific as possible. “Opening a 5,000 square foot restaurant downtown that costs $7,500 a
month” is a much better goal than “Open a restaurant.” The same applies for your family and
personal goals. Over time, you will see many of your personal and business goals overlap. That’s
okay, that’s normal for entrepreneurs.
Once you have your goals, creating 2 separate financial plans is relatively simple. All you have to do
is explain how you are going to achieve each goal. That’s it, that’s your plan. Creating the plans is
easy; achieving the plans and living your dreams is far less easy.
So how do you achieve your business and personal financial goals?
1. Understand your current situation.
2. Make lists of your goals.
3. Map out – personally and professionally – how you are going to get from your current
situation to your desired goals.
4. Evaluate options and contingency plans – which will help you prioritize your goals.
5. And, always share your goals and plans both with your finance and accounting team and
with your family and friends. They are your teams for a reason. They exist to help. They
exist to see you live your dreams. Make it happen.
DETERMINE THE FINANCIAL NET WORTH OF YOUR BUSINESS
Step #1 towards achieving your business financial goals is to understand your current situation.
What does that mean?
Identify all of your current resources – financial, material, human, capital.
o These are things you own.
o These are your Assets.
Identify all of your current obligations – bank debt, revolving credit, family loans, rent, bills.
o These are things you owe.
o These are your Liabilities.
The Net Worth of Your Business is the difference between your Assets and Liabilities.
+ Assets = Stuff Your Business OWNS
Liabilities = Stuff Your Business OWES
= NET WORTH = The Value of Your Business
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Conceptually, that’s a relatively easy math problem to solve. In practice, it can be difficult to put a
price on many of your assets. That 12-year old tool you got for your birthday…the skills and know-
how that your family members contribute….a patent you have applied for – many of your Assets
can be difficult to put a price on. That’s normal.
So when you add up the value of all of your Assets, focus on liquidity. If you had a garage sale or
eBay sale, how much cash would you get for each item? That’s the market value. That’s what you
include in calculating the Net Worth of Your Business.
Why do we care about knowing – quantifying – the Financial Net Worth of Your Business?
Because if you want to get from Point A to Point be, you need to know exactly where Point A is. If
you want to open a 5,000 square foot restaurant that costs $7,500 per month, you need to know how
much cash you have today in order to know how much to save or borrow. Maybe this helps you
determine how much to charge for your products today. Maybe this helps you decide if you should
hire an assistant today or in 12 months. Maybe this helps you decide that opening a 10,000 square
foot restaurant at $10,000 per month is a much better business decision for you.
A goal without a plan is just a dream. Knowing where you are today helps you create the plan, in
which you will establish the roadmap for how you achieve your goals, how you get to Point B.
How is knowing the Net Worth of your business a personal finance issue? When you compare
where your business is today with what your business goals are, you need to know how much effort,
money, time and energy you – personally – need to invest in your business. You are the most
valuable asset your business has, even if you do not get included in the Net Worth. Knowing what
you – personally – need to do is to help your business achieve its goals is essential. And, by knowing
what you – personally – have to invest in the business will help you identify how much your
business is influencing your personal and family financial goals.
Note: In Chapter 3, we will discuss your personal Net Worth in detail. There are exercises there and
some math. You can refer to that now if you are eager to put it to work for your business.
DETERMINE YOUR RISK TOLERANCE – FOR BUSINESS & FINANCE
The two foundational tenets of finance are return and risk. In short, the more risk we are willing to
incur, the greater the return we may achieve.
There are no guarantees and it there is not necessarily a linear relationship between risk and return.
We do not generate enormous returns and success simply because we take big risks. Taking big risks
may lead to bankruptcy. But, if we hope to have big success, we have to take some risks.
When you sit down with a financial planner to discuss your family’s financial goals, one of the first
questions they will ask you is about your risk tolerance. Knowing your risk tolerance will help
identify your strategic options and what decisions you make, for your business and yourself.
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It may help determine how much insurance to buy.
It may help determine how to legally structure your business.
It may help determine how who is on your finance and accounting team.
It may help determine whether you open a stand-alone office for your business.
It may help determine how your family members help with your business.
We also know that change is certain. Whatever plans we make today will evolve and change over
time. Understanding your risk tolerance will help you develop contingency plans…think about one
big decision tree for your business and for your family. Finance happens as much in your mind and
your heart as it does in a spreadsheet or on a financial statement. Your attitude towards risk will
have short-term and long-term implications for the business decisions you make. And the business
decisions you make will have implications for the personal finance situation for you and your family.
In Chapter 5 and in the appendix, there are a number of exercises to help you identify your own,
personal risk tolerance. In personal finance, you should do these exercises with your spouse, partner
and family. In business finance, you should to these exercises with your business partners. In
entrepreneurial finance, you should do these exercises with everyone – business partners, family,
friends, anyone who may be impacted by the time, energy and money you invest in your business.
We all have different attitudes towards risk. Knowing yours is critical to both your business and your
family achieving all of their financial goals.
TALK TO YOUR FAMILY
COORDINATE WITH YOUR FAMILY
With respect to this book and your life as an entrepreneur, you need to know 2 statistics:
Financial issues are frequently cited as the leading cause of divorce in the U.S.
70% of start-up firms will fail within the first 10 years…22% will fail in the first year, 30%
will fail within the first 2 years and 50% will fail within.
Communication matters. Your journey as an entrepreneur is also a journey for your family. Talk to
them. Make sure they know what you are going. Make sure they participate in establishing your
business and personal financial goals. Make sure you consider their risk tolerance in making your
business plans and business decisions.
As you talk with your family about your business and about your financial goals, please discuss a
wide variety of business, family and financial issues.
Who do you want to be as an entrepreneur? Bill Gates famously did not take a day off from
work in his 20s. Is that what you want? Is that what your family wants?
What do you want from your business venture? Are you looking for more freedom in your
work life? Are you looking to get rich? Are you simply looking to have a side-hustle?
Whatever you want is fine, but make sure your family wants the same thing.
What do you want from your family members? Labor? Money? Stay away? Make sure you all
want the same thing for your business.
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Do you – or your family – have any other options for income? Amazon did not become
profitable until its 6
th
or 7
th
year. Tesla did not become profitable until it’s 15
th
year. These
are extreme cases, but such statistics are not uncommon. What money is going to be used to
support the family if your business incurs losses during the first few years?
Are you becoming an entrepreneur because you don’t have any other options? Many people
become entrepreneurs out of necessity because they cannot find any other job. This is
especially true in under-developed countries and communities. Are you hoping to parlay the
entrepreneurial venture into a desk job, with benefits and coffee breaks? Knowing this,
sharing this with your family, will help you all develop the plan that will make it happen.
What are your priorities? What’s more important, business growth or your children’s school?
You may have to prioritize such things. Family vacations, the 3
rd
grade recital, weekends,
business relationships…what are your priorities and how do you work towards your goals?
And goals are exactly what this book and this conversation about your entrepreneurial life are all
about. Every action begins with a goal. Every plan begins with a goal.
Now that you’ve been through the 10 things every entrepreneur can do today to take better control
of both your business and personal financial lives, you are ready to go through a more methodical
approach to personal financial planning.
In Chapter 2, we delve deeper into goals and values and how they impact financial planning.
In Chapter 3, we get into budgeting, income and expense management in personal finance.
In Chapter 4, we discuss debt management. As a reminder, this is a personal finance book,
not an entrepreneurial finance book. So we will discuss debt management at the personal
level…which will naturally overlap with the debt management of your business in some
ways. But we will not get into raising capital and bank debt for your business, even though
many of the issues will be very similar, regardless of the purpose of the debt.
In Chapter 5, we will discuss investing…for yourself and your family. How do you invest –
in the financial markets – to achieve your personal financial goals?
In Chapter 6, we will focus on a few special topics that should be a part of everyone’s
financial plan: insurance and taxes.
In Chapter 7, we will focus on some personal tax planning issues that might be relevant to
many entrepreneurs should be aware of. The overlap between your personal and business
lives can create some unique opportunities for tax planning. This chapter discusses some.
And in Chapter 8, we will talk about some financial planning strategies, hoping to come full-
circle in thinking about how different financial planning strategies can help you achieve your
personal and family financial goals.
The goal of this book is to help you take better control of your financial life, as an entrepreneur.
Hopefully this chapter helps get you started. And hopefully the following chapters help you continue
the journey towards achieving your goals. As with any entrepreneurial venture, the more you invest
the more you are likely to get back in return.
Enjoy the next few chapters – and enjoy your entrepreneurial journey, your dreams and your
personal and business success.
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GOAL LIST #1 – THE TOP FINANCIAL GOALS FOR YOUR BUSINESS
1. ______________________________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________________________
2. ______________________________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________________________
3. ______________________________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________________________
4. ______________________________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________________________
5. ______________________________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________________________
6. ______________________________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________________________
7. ______________________________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________________________
8. ______________________________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________________________
9. ______________________________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________________________
10. ______________________________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________________________
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GOAL LIST #2 – THE TOP FINANCIAL GOALS FOR YOUR FAMILY
1. ______________________________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________________________
2. ______________________________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________________________
3. ______________________________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________________________
4. ______________________________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________________________
5. ______________________________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________________________
6. ______________________________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________________________
7. ______________________________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________________________
8. ______________________________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________________________
9. ______________________________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________________________
10. ______________________________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________________________
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Chapter 1 Summary
Your Financial To-Do List as an Entrepreneur
In the space below, please go through the list of 10 activities and make a plan to do them. Make any
comments about the action and post the status. Update this list regularly as you complete the list.
WHAT YOU SHOULD DO TODAY STATUS
1. Separate your business finances from your personal finances. __________________
2. Build your finance & accounting team. __________________
3. Create a business plan. __________________
4. Build your personal biography. __________________
5. Get organized. Establish your finance and accounting __________________
control systems.
6. Document everything. Track every penny that you spend or earn. __________________
7. Create 2 separate financial plans: for your business and for your __________________
family. Be specific.
8. Determine your financial net worth of your business. __________________
9. Determine your risk tolerance for both business and finance. __________________
10. Talk to your family. Coordinate with your family. __________________
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SPACE FOR NOTES, THOUGHTS, PRACTICE & PLANNING
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
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SPACE FOR NOTES, THOUGHTS, PRACTICE & PLANNING
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
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SPACE FOR NOTES, THOUGHTS, PRACTICE & PLANNING
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
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CHAPTER 2
TAKING CONTROL OF YOUR FINANCIAL FUTURE:
GOALS, VALUES & FINANCIAL PLANNING
Let’s start with a thought exercise. We will do a lot of thought exercises throughout this book. There
are never any “right” or wrong” answer to these exercises. These are just to help you think about
your own personal financial health and plans. As you go through this book, and as you write down
your thoughts on these exercises, you may want to write down the date when you responded; your
feelings about many of these exercises will change over time, and that’s okay. We want you to
explore and grow as you go through this book – and you may want to re-visit many of these
exercises so you can think about different issues from different perspectives as you do grow.
So, here’s thought exercise #1:
What is money? What does money mean to you?
In the space below, write down as many words, phrases, song lyrics, tweets, feelings, or
stories that help define what money means to you.
___________________________________________________________________
___________________________________________________________________
___________________________________________________________________
___________________________________________________________________
___________________________________________________________________
___________________________________________________________________
___________________________________________________________________
___________________________________________________________________
You can use space on another sheet if you need more room.
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Now that you have this list, go through it and put a + next to the items that elicit a positive feeling
or sentiment and a next to the items that elicit a negative feeling or sentiment.
Do any of these statements conflict with each other? Do any inspire you?
Now store this list away – and come back and revisit it periodically to see if you want to add new
items or remove some old thoughts that you feel are no longer accurate. Thinking about of what
money means to you will be a big part of your journey through this book.
THINKING ABOUT MONEY – THE LOTTERY
Imagine that a friend gave you a Lotto Scratch-Off ticket. And you won $500.
What would you do with that $500? Write down up to 3 things you would do with your winnings:
1. ________________________________________________
2. ________________________________________________
3. ________________________________________________
Now, let’s say your Lotto ticket was a much, much bigger winner. This time you won $100,000.
What would you do with that $100,000? Write down up to 3 things you would do with this bounty:
1. ________________________________________________
2. ________________________________________________
3. ________________________________________________
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There are no ‘right’ or ‘wrong’ responses here. Your answers are your answers and nobody else’s.
The point of this is to help you think about your values and priorities. As you think about your
values and priorities, the following questions may help you refine what your values really are:
What decisions have you recently made that directly align with your values?
What did you gain from those decisions?
What was the next best alternative?
What other options were available?
Did one of the alternatives better fit with your values and circumstances?
What was the cost of your decision? Did one of the other alternatives have a lower cost?
Sometimes the decisions you make – and the values you express – will have a direct financial cost:
maybe you pay $5 for a value meal at a fast-food restaurant or $10 for a movie. Many other
decisions will not have a direct and obvious financial cost; in finance, we refer to this cost as the
“opportunity cost.” An opportunity cost is the value of doing something else. Think of everything
you do as a choice: when you pay $5 for a value meal, you have not only made that choice, but you
have also made the choice not to give that $5 to charity or to save that $5. That’s not wrong, that’s
not right – that’s simply your choice.
Only you can decide if you are making the best choices for your values.
You are paying opportunity costs all the time, whether you realize it or not. You have limited
resources – both time and money – and you are constantly making decisions about how to spend
your time and your money. These choices express your values. Importantly, these choices indicate
what is important to you; they also indicate what is less important to you. Every time you make a
choice on how you spend your time and your money, you are simultaneously making the decision
not to do something else with your time and money.
For each of the following activities, think about the benefits and the costs of doing each:
Activity #1 – You choose to spend 3 hours researching a new business technique.
Benefits: __________________________________________________
__________________________________________________
Costs: __________________________________________________
__________________________________________________
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Activity #2 – You choose to spend 1 hour exercising at the gym.
Benefits: __________________________________________________
__________________________________________________
Costs: __________________________________________________
__________________________________________________
Activity #3 – You choose to spend 4 hours on the weekend volunteering at the animal shelter.
Benefits: __________________________________________________
__________________________________________________
Costs: __________________________________________________
__________________________________________________
Now, ask yourself…. Are the benefits of these choices greater than the costs of these choices?
In theory, we should only be making decisions to do things where the benefits are greater than the
costs, no matter how abstract or unmeasurable the benefits and costs may be. Happiness, purpose
and peace of mind can be very important values – only you can decide what your values are.
MINDFUL DECISION-MAKING
Impulses are the enemy of financial planning – but impulsive behavior is very much a part of being
human. And that’s why we want to make an effort to be thoughtful and intentional about what we
do with our time and our money.
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The purpose of being thoughtful and intentional in making a financial plan is to be sure that your
actions align with your goals and values. To be mindful of you financial (and even non-financial)
decisions, take a moment to remove any impulses and think about the decisions you’re making.
To be mindful of your decisions, ask yourself these questions:
1. What am I getting – either now or in the future?
2. What am I giving up – either now or in the future?
3. Are there other options that better fit with my values, goals and circumstances?
Think about your business. Your business may be the biggest and most expensive investment you
ever make – perhaps even more expensive than buying a house – in terms of time, energy and
money. You have to invest in the business for it to be successful.
So why are you doing this? What are the benefits?
I love teaching aspiring entrepreneurs, so I am obviously a big believer in the benefits in small
business ownership – for you as individuals and for the benefit you provide to society. But only you
can decide whether the benefits of this experience are greater than all of the costs and sacrifices you
are incurring in order to receive these benefits.
When you decided to start your business, it probably was not an impulse decision. You and your
family had probably been thinking about it for many years. You analyzed many factors, comparing
the benefits and costs of every possibly scenario. This was perhaps the most mindful – both
personal and financial – decision you’ve ever made.
What if you made all of your decisions with that kind of thoughtfulness? What if you were able to
eliminate impulsiveness from all of your financial decision-making?
Obviously, that’s probably ridiculous. You’re not going to prepare notebooks of analysis thinking
about whether to buy a taco on a Friday night. But how might you add a little more thoughtfulness
to many of your day-to-day decisions?
Only make purchases with a credit or debit card. Don’t use cash. Cash is tangible, but it can
be difficult to monitor. Seeing all of your debit or credit card purchases online or in your
monthly bank statement can help you manage and analyze your expenses.
o Or, if you think differently, perhaps you ONLY make purchases with cash. Some
people feel more intrinsic pain when spending cash, precisely because it is tangible.
When the mafia invented casino chips, it was precisely to make it simple for us to
throw away chips because losing chips wasn’t as painful as losing cash was to people.
o You have to figure out which type of person you are and which approach will make
you the most thoughtful and mindful…and which approach will cause you the most
pain when you spend money. A brief figurative shock can be very helpful if it slows
down your impulse purchasing habits – find what works for you.
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Wait 24 hours before making any purchase. Apply this rule even to your Friday night taco
craving. That’s right – make yourself wait. And it’s even easier with most other purchases.
Take your time and force yourself to think about how that purchase aligns with your goals
and personal values.
o For purchases over a certain larger dollar amount – say, $100 – force yourself to wait
a week or a month before buying it.
Delete any apps from your phone that enable no-touch or one-touch purchases. The
technology is amazing – but that technology is also designed to get you to spend more
money, not to help you achieve your personal and financial goals.
o Make it easy to save, difficult to spend.
Commit to saving more. For every purchase you make, whether it’s for a taco or something
online, commit to moving 50% of the purchase price into your savings account.
There are many other strategies and tricks you can play on yourself to incorporate more diligence
and mindfulness to the decisions you make with your money. You do not want to become a robot –
but you also don’t want to be broke forever. Challenge yourself to find a nice mindfulness balance.
WHAT’S IMPORTANT TO YOU – YOUR VALUES
Let’s think about your values. We will do this regularly throughout this book, constantly encouraging
you to make sure that the decisions you make are aligned with the values you hold dear.
We’ve provided you with a list of 12 common values. In the space below the list, add 4 more that
you think are important. Then, from this full list of 16 values, rank them. Give the value that’s most
important to you a 1 and give the value that’s least important to you a 16.
__________ Education __________ Family
__________ Friends __________ Saving for the future
__________ Charity __________ Personal appearance
__________ Travel __________ Entertainment
__________ Freedom __________ Creativity
__________ Religion __________ Physical fitness
__________ __________________ __________ __________________
__________ __________________ __________ __________________
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As with most exercises in this book, this list and the rankings are just for you. You should re-visit
your thoughts periodically to see how your thinking evolves as you think more about your personal
financial planning and financial health.
Let’s put these values to work – it’s easy enough to make lists and claim what we think is important,
but it’s an entirely different matter to actually be faced with making decisions to see what we value.
For each of the following scenarios, think about whether or not you would take the opportunity.
Scenario #1 – A store you love is going out of business and has a great deal on an item that
you really like…but that you don’t need right now.
Do you buy it? YES NO
Scenario #2 – A family member offers to either put a $5,000 down payment on a new car
for you, after which you’ll make the required loan payments, or deposit $5,000 into
your or your children’s college fund.
What do you choose? NEW CAR COLLEGE FUND
Scenario #3 – You are saving up to buy a new computer, but your friends invite you on a
summer vacation that will wipe out your computer savings.
What do you choose? COMPUTER TRIP
Scenario #4 – You usually donate $25 a month to a local charity in additional to putting $25
a month into a savings account. But this month you only have $25 to use.
What do you do? CHARITY SAVINGS
Let’s think about Scenario #4. We’ve only given you two options. Both of those are valuable to you,
so you could make a mindful case for either. But are there any other options? Are there other
creative, mindful alternatives that you could consider?
What if you split the $25 and give $12.50 to charity and $12.50 to savings?
What if you put $25 in savings this month and commit to giving $50 to charity next month?
Are there any other expenses in your budget that are less important to you than charity and savings?
I ask myself this last question all of the time – it’s a great check of reminding myself of what’s truly
important to me and what my values are.
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By now, you might be worried that financial planning and being mindful is designed to take the fun
out of life. That’s the exact opposite of what it’s designed to do.
Yes, being mindful is designed to remove some of the impulsiveness from how you spend (or waste)
your money. But the purpose of that is to make sure you’re only spending your hard-earned money
on things that really are important to you…on things that you value and that make your life better.
Personally, I like to treat myself to nice things and to small indulgences. Most of us do. This might
be as simple as a meal at a nice restaurant or a new pair of shoes or an annual vacation. I value these
things. I also value donating some of my income to a few charities that are important to me. So, one
rule that I impose on myself is this: When I spend money on a small or large indulgence, I commit
to donating that same amount to charity. Whether that’s $30 at a restaurant, $100 on a new pair of
shoes or $500 on a nice trip, I commit to donating the same amount to charity. This helps me be
more mindful about how I spend my money – it also helps me align what I do with my hard-earned
money with the beliefs, priorities and values that are extremely important to me.
WHY FINANCIAL PLANNING?
Now that we’ve jumpstarted our brains to begin thinking about how we relate to money, let’s take a
break and talk about what we’re trying to do with this book. That is…Why do you need to worry
about financial health and financial planning?
Ø 60% of Americans do not have $1,000 saved up to cover an emergency.
Ø 44% of Americans do not have $400 saved up to cover an emergency.
Ø 33% of American adults have $0 saved for retirement.
Ø 60% of Americans carry credit card debt, totaling over $1 trillion in the U.S.
Ø 70% of Americans live paycheck-to-paycheck.
Ø The average American has $5,200 in savings.
o Men have $7,000 in savings. Women have $2,000 in savings.
o Black Americans have $1,000 in savings. Hispanic Americans have $1,500 in savings.
White Americans have $7,140 in savings.
Ø The average Social Security benefit for retirees paid out $1,350 per month ($16,200 per year).
Ø 55% of Americans “always” or “sometimes” worry about their finances – with 40% saying
that “running out cash” is their biggest concern.
Ø Financial issues are cited as the leading cause of both divorce and stress in America.
Ø And, the National Endowment for Financial Education found that only 24% of millennials
demonstrate basic financial literacy.
This book is designed to help improve those numbers – or to at least help put you on the ‘right’ side
of each statistic. We do not mention these numbers to shame your or embarrass you, we introduce
these numbers to point out some of the socio-economic dynamics that you will face as you work to
achieve your personal and financial goals. We cannot change many of these socio-economic
dynamics with this book in the short-term; but we can help you become better prepared to put
yourself in a better personal and financial position in the long-term.
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Now let’s remind ourselves about some of the rewards that come from financial planning:
ü Ability to maintain or improve your standard of living
ü Controlled spending allows you to live well today AND tomorrow
ü Accumulate wealth—Remember, whatever your income, you can spend it or save it
ü Hope of avoiding much of the havoc that money problems wreak on your personal life
ü Conflict over money is the leading cause of divorce in today’s society.
So, what are we going to do – what do we mean by “financial planning?”
For better or worse, financial planning is a constant, lifelong process…but it gets easier over time
and it gets much more rewarding over time.
1. Set your goals. What do you want to achieve
in life? What financial goals will make this
happen?
2. Analyze your reality. What is your situation?
What is your income? What are your
expenses? When can you achieve your goals?
3. Create your plan. Focus on the short-term
the next 3-6 months and the long-term
the next 1, 2, 5 and 10 years.
4. Execute your plan. Work to decrease your
expenses. and to pay off debt. Work to
increase your income and your savings.
5. Track your progress. How are you doing?
Are you ahead of your goals? Are you behind
your goals?
6. Adjust your plan to reflect your progress,
your new reality and any new goals.
7. Repeat. Revise. Enjoy.
This may seem very abstract right now. You may not have any financial goals – you may not even
know what financial goals are. That’s okay – we’re here to help. You will get more and more
comfortable with the terminology and the process as you go through this journey. You will do a lot
of introspection, thinking about your personal values and your personal dreams. You will do a little
bit of math, converting your values, dreams and goals into numbers. You will also be converting
your actions and behaviors into numbers. Much of this may be uncomfortable for you – I am always
embarrassed to see how much I spend each month on coffee. But dealing with that discomfort is
essential for being able to change your behavior and improve your situation.
We will talk about income in the next chapter. When you’re starting out as an entrepreneur, your
income if usually much less than you want it to be. But that will change – both as you discover more
opportunities for creating income and as your earning potential increases with your business. Be
patient yet be persistent. You will get there. You will make your dreams happen.
Set
Goals
Analyze
Reality
Create
Plan
Execute
Your Plan
Track
Progress
Adjust
Plan
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HAVING THE RIGHT MENTAL ATTITUDE
Here’s one more statistic that we didn’t include on the list above: only one-third of American adults
have a budget or a financial plan. Just by reading this far and doing a tiny bit of thinking about your
financial goals and situation, you are already ahead of most people. Congratulations! But you’re not
done. Our next task will be to begin the financial planning process and to create your financial plan.
But first, let’s analyze why you – or the other two-thirds of Americans – have not created a financial
plan, yet. What’s holding you back? Why haven’t you begun to take control of your financial future?
There are certainly other reasons you might include on this graphic – perhaps you’ve never had to
worry about your own finances, perhaps you’ve never had the knowledge necessary or perhaps
you’ve thought you’d never have enough month to worry about financial planning. One purpose of
this book is to help you overcome these barriers. We want to give you the tools and confidence to
take control of your financial future – and that journey begins now.
We’ve already talked about your values and priorities a little bit; we’ll return to these concepts
throughout this journey. But, the biggest goal of this book is to help you learn – so our next
objective is to help you get started in knowing how to create a budget. Once you have a budget,
based on your goals and your current situation, and once you start executing your budget or financial
plan, many of the other reasons in this graphic will take care of themselves and go away. We will
cover budgeting and expense management in Chapter 2.
Having the right mental attitude is essential to financial planning. Earlier, we talked about “mindful
decision making.” Being mindful about the financial decisions you make is critical to achieving your
goals. But financial planning can be much more personal than just being mindful of the decisions we
make. For many people, financial planning uncovers deeper issues. That’s okay.
Little Things
Adding Up
Impulse
Purchases
(Coffee, Clothes)
Not Knowing
How to Start a
Budget
Having Trouble Creating a
Budget that Adequately Reflects
all of my Expenses, Debts, Etc.
Monitoring
Spending/Tracking
Expenditures
Unexpected
Expenses
Friends Want to
Eat Out, Etc.
Not Having a
Clear Budget &
Clear Priorities
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That can be healthy. Financial planning is about you and not anyone else. As you go through this
journey, please remind yourself of the following bits of advice.
Ø There is no shame in talking about money. There is no shame in financial planning.
Ø There is no ego in talking about money. There is no ego in financial planning.
Ø You will make mistakes. Don’t beat yourself up. Move on and improve next time.
Ø You are not alone. We are all going through similar issues.
Ø To be vulnerable is to be human. Let yourself be vulnerable. That is how we grow.
Ø To be resilient is to be human. Challenge yourself to be resilient. That is how we progress.
Ø You cannot change your past. You can only change your future. Focus on your future.
WHAT ARE YOUR FINANCIAL DREAMS?
We started this journey asking you to think about what you would do if you won $100,000 in the
lottery. That’s fun – but it’s not very realistic (especially since, in Chapter 5, we are going to
encourage you to avoid playing the lottery). So, let’s finish this chapter by thinking about some more
realistic dreams.
Please take 30 seconds to think about this question: What are your financial dreams?
When we think about a vague question like that, we typically think about big, grand ideas: becoming
a millionaire, retiring by the time I’m 40, travelling the globe, buying my first house, buying my
parents a house, or something less sexy like becoming financially self-sufficient.
Dreams like these are great – don’t let go of them. But they aren’t particularly actionable – they’re
vague and it’s difficult to develop a plan for how you might achieve them. We will begin developing
your financial plan in the next chapter, so let’s develop some ideas for what will be in that plan.
Imagine that you were able to save $100 next year – What would you do with that $100?
1. ________________________________________________
2. ________________________________________________
3. ________________________________________________
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Imagine that you were able to save $1,000 next year – What would you do with that $1,000?
1. ________________________________________________
2. ________________________________________________
3. ________________________________________________
Imagine that you were able to save $10,000 next year – What would you do with that $10,000?
1. ________________________________________________
2. ________________________________________________
3. ________________________________________________
Don’t wait around for other people to be happy for you.
Any happiness you get,
You’ve got to make yourself.
Alice Walker
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Chapter 2 Summary
Taking Control of Your Financial Future
In the space below, please write down 5 things you learned in this chapter that will help you take
greater ownership of your financial future in order to achieve your goals and dreams.
1. _____________________________________________________________
2. _____________________________________________________________
3. _____________________________________________________________
4. _____________________________________________________________
5. _____________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
My Pledge to My Future Self:
I hereby pledge to take control of my financial future. I hereby pledge to my future self to regularly
monitor my financial situation to make sure that what I am doing with my money aligns with my
personal values, my financial goals and my dreams for creating a better life for myself.
______________________________________ ___________________________
Signature Date
______________________________________________________________________________
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SPACE FOR NOTES, THOUGHTS, PRACTICE & PLANNING
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SPACE FOR NOTES, THOUGHTS, PRACTICE & PLANNING
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SPACE FOR NOTES, THOUGHTS, PRACTICE & PLANNING
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CHAPTER 3
BUDGETING:
INCOME, EXPENSES & CASH FLOW
This will be the math chapter. Sorry.
But we have to do some math to figure out how you’re going to achieve the financial dreams you
identified at the end of the previous chapter.
A journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step.
Famous Chinese proverb (Laozi)
In that last exercise in Chapter 1, you came up with three lists of what you would do with $100, with
$1,000 and with $10,000. Take a minute to review those previous lists. Now pick one item from
those lists to think about here. And, then fill in the following blanks:
In the next year, I want to save $ __________ in order to _______________________
____________________________________________________________________.
____________________________________________________________________.
Now, how are you going to save this money?
In the next year, I want to save $ __________ by doing the following: _____________
____________________________________________________________________
____________________________________________________________________.
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Coming up with dreams and goals is the fun part. You’re all good at that – after all, you’re starting a
business right now because you have big dreams and goals. The difficult part is developing the plan
to come up with the money – or time or energy – necessary to make those dreams and goals happen.
This chapter is about that plan – developing a financial plan and a budget to set you on a course to
achieve all of your personal and financial goals. This will not be easy. You will have to think about
yourself, frequently confronting painful emotions or behaviors. You will also have to think about
your future – it’s always difficult for anyone to plan for the future because we have no idea what the
future will bring. Whenever you face these difficulties, take a deep breath, go for a walk, re-center
your mind…and then come back to this exercise and remind yourself that you will be better off after
going through this journey. The purpose of this journey is to help you take control of your future.
This journey will help you achieve your goals and dreams. I promise you, it will all be worth it.
TYPES OF BUDGET PLANS
If you search for “types of personal budgets,” you will find a near infinite number of suggestions.
That is obviously overwhelming. However, if you study this plethora of budget plans, you will see
that they are all very similar – just will slight differences to help you think about the budgeting
process. They all end in the same place – measuring your net cash flow – but they take slightly
difference routes to get you there. The math is generally the same – but each helps you think about
your income and expenses in slightly different ways.
Regardless of the method, personal budgeting involves three common steps:
(1) Estimate your income, or what you expect to receive in paychecks and gifts.
(2) Estimate your current and future spending needs.
(3) Subtract (2) from (1) to estimate Net Cash Flow and what you can add to Savings.
We’ll introduce just five of these methods here – but please feel free to modify and personalize any
of these to better suit your own unique situation:
THE ENVELOPE METHOD
Ø Identify your main expense categories – food, bills, entertainment, rent, and others.
Ø Pretend that you put money for each category into its own envelope. If it helps, actually
put the cash for each category into an envelope.
Ø The amount that each category has in its envelope is the maximum you can spend for
each category during each period.
Ø You cannot spend more than what’s in an envelope. Once an envelope is empty, you
cannot spend any more on that category.
Ø If you spend less than what’s in an envelope, you cannot move or loan funds to another
envelope.
Ø If you have money left in any envelopes at the end of the month, put it into savings. Do
not carry it over to the next month.
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ZERO-BASED BUDGETING
Ø Start with your total income, either actual or expected.
Ø Then allocate every single dollar to some purpose.
o Essential expenses such as rent, food and phone are easy.
o Include savings, debt repayment, insurance and investments.
Ø Your Net Cash Flow – or Income minus Expenses – will always be $0.00 because every
penny has been assigned to a specific expense or purpose.
50 / 30 / 20 METHOD
Ø This is similar to the Envelope Method but with broader categories.
Ø Allocate 50% of your income to “needs.
Ø Allocate 30% of your income to “wants.”
Ø Allocate 20% of your income to savings and debt repayment.
Ø This may be a difficult method while you’re still in school and income is low, but it can be
a great method after you graduate to take you through your 20s.
PAY YOURSELF FIRST
Ø This is essentially a reverse budget – where the first item you consider is savings.
Ø Pick a number that you want to save each month – and then as soon as you get paid,
move that amount into your savings account or into investments….pay your future self
first.
Ø Then you can apply one of the other methods for the balance of your budget.
o You could employ a 20 / 50 / 30 budget, where you start with the 20% being
moved to savings, then budgeting for needs (50%) and wants (30%).
o You could move all non-savings funds into their own envelopes – then, at the end
of the month, with any remaining cash in envelopes, move that to savings. You
may end up moving money to savings twice each month – which is great.
o You could create a zero-based budget on top of your savings. Again, you might
have one line-item devoted to savings here, too, and you could end up saving
twice.
THE VALUES-BASED BUDGET
Ø You first allocate a portion to your essentials: food, rent, phone.
Ø Then you allocate your income to different values that are important to you: charity,
family, friends, health, education, well-being, your future and others.
Ø This could be coupled with the Envelope, Zero-Based or 20 / 50 / 30 methods, such that
your values define the categories. Your values become both “needs” and “wants.”
Ø Be sure to include “your future” as a value – that’s where you’ll do your saving to help
you meet your personal and financial goals.
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Which budget approach is best for you? Only you can determine that. But please do something –
any budget approach, even an imperfect one, is better than no budget approach. And be patient:
start with one approach and you’ll perfect your planning over time.
Play around with some of the above methods – try one for 3 months, then try another for the next 3
months, and so on. You’ll find the one that works for you, or perhaps you’ll create your own based
on some of the approaches that you like. We all think and behave differently, we all have different
backgrounds and values, and we all have different situations and resources – you have to find or
create the budgeting approach that best helps you meet your long-term personal and financial goals.
Keep in mind that NO budget method will help you earn more money, nor will any budget plan
magically reduce your spending. Only you can do that. That comes from your values, your behavior
and your actions.
Remember that this is a personal finance book, not a business finance book. Budgeting for your
business can be very similar, especially as an entrepreneur. Pick a model that works for you and your
business, stick to it, and adjust as times, situations and goals change.
BUDGETING 101
INCOME – HOW MUCH DO YOU MAKE?
All of the budget models that we looked at in the previous section have one thing in common: they
compare your INCOME to your EXPENSES. Ultimately, that’s all that budgeting is – a systematic
approach to comparing your Income to your Expenses. If your Income is greater than your
Expenses, that’s great – it allows you to save today in order to have bigger and better opportunities
in the future. If you Income is less than your Expenses, that could be a problem – it forces you to
borrow (either from your savings or from a lender); in doing so, you sacrifice a little bit of your
future opportunities in order to do something today.
One thing is clear about any budget: If you don’t have any income – either today or in the future –
you’re going to have big problems. So, let’s talk about income.
Income, perhaps obviously, is money that you receive or earn. If you have money, you can do stuff
that’s how our society works. The more money you have, the more stuff you can do.
For now, think back on the past 2-3 years and identify 5 different sources of income. These may be
from your entrepreneurial venture or from other sources (including income your spouse or partner
earns – include family money if you want). Write these down in the space below. Don’t include
dollar amounts, just list the sources – work, family, investments. If you’ve had different jobs, list
them separately. Feel free to list more than 5 in the surrounding space if you want to:
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1. ________________________________________________
2. ________________________________________________
3. ________________________________________________
4. ________________________________________________
5. ________________________________________________
The purpose here is simply to begin writing down all of your cash inflows and outflows. Your
income is an inflow – we’ll focus on outflows in a little while.
Think about your next 2-3 years. On the left, list your most likely sources of income, just like you
did above. We’ll call this your Planned Income. On the right, be creative – think about jobs you’ve
never done or sources of income you’ve never considered. We’ll call this your Possible Income.
PLANNED INCOME
1. _____________________________
2. _____________________________
3. _____________________________
4. _____________________________
5. _____________________________
POSSBILE INCOME
1. _____________________________
2. _____________________________
3. _____________________________
4. _____________________________
5. _____________________________
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What did you come up with for your Possible Income? How creative were you? Uber, Lyft, side-
hustles, different markets, different partnerships, freelance writer, freelance photographer, blogger,
freelance chef, brand ambassador for your industry or for a local business, research study
participant, bus driver, landscape maintenance, errand runner….we all have lots of ‘other’ options.
Perhaps you listed food service or barista in your Planned Income – what about delivering for Waitr
or Uber Eats?
Perhaps you listed childcare in your Planned Income – what about senior care or pet care (or even
both at the same time)?
Could you share your house or apartment with 1 or 2 more people? Could you rent out an extra
room? That might give you an excuse to spend more time at work.
Take a minute to think about how often you have to explain to your family members how to use
Facebook, Snapchat, Tik Tok, Twitter, Instagram or anything else – what if you could get paid for
this advice? No, your family members might not pay you – but most local business owners are your
parents’ age and just as needy. Find a business that you like and convince them to pay you to run
their social media platforms.
Could you even start an additional business…a side-hustle while your main entrepreneurial venture
develops? It wouldn’t have to be much – turn your hobby into income. You can sell your design
creations on Etsy, create your own app, start your own food truck or catering service.
There are many, many opportunities to earn extra cash. You may not be able to pursue them all, but
you can probably pursue more than you think. As we talked about in Chapter 1, be sure to
communicate and coordinate with your family as you consider branching out – your entrepreneurial
journey is their journey, too. Work on it together..
BUDGETING 101
CASH TODAY vs. CAREER IN THE FUTURE?
When I was a sophomore in college, I was assigned a mentor for a semester. My mentor was about
30-years old and he had been the quarterback of my university’s football team just a few years
before, which I thought was pretty cool. He gave me a lot of good advice, but there’s one specific
piece of advice that he gave me that sticks with me today: at some point you’re going to want to
switch from having a ‘job’ to having a ‘career.’ You are starting your business now because you want
to create your own career.
The thing about this advice is this: there’s nobody in this world who can tell you when to make that
switch – not me, not your family, not your boss, not some former-QB mentor guy.
One of the best jobs I had in college was refereeing intramural basketball games – I made $10 an
hour for hanging out at the gym and blowing a whistle. It was easy and it paid very well. I never had
any desire to make officiating a career, but as a college sophomore I was more concerned about
buying food next week than I was about advancing my career – both because I wasn’t sure what I
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wanted to do with a career, and because there weren’t a lot of professional jobs available for a 20-
year old college sophomore.
By the time I was a junior, I had a better idea what I wanted to do for a career, and I was able to get
a part-time job at the end of my junior year; I continued this internship for 9 months, through the
summer and halfway through my senior year. It was decent experience, it probably looked good on
my resume and it helped me learn the finance business. But it paid $4 an hour.
The $4 an hour (before taxes) that I was making at this internship did very little to help my financial
situation….in the short-term. Given that I still enjoyed eating and doing other college things, I
continued refereeing and making $10 a game. Some weeks I would only work 4 games as I didn’t
have the time to focus on school and the internship and refereeing – but it worked out to be the
perfect balance. At the time I needed cash and I needed work experience – now that you are starting
your own business, it may be less feasible to take on this kind of extra work. But if you are already
employed in a full-time job, perhaps you can balance this while you being developing your new
entrepreneurial venture. You’ll know when it’s time to commit full-time to the new venture.
I mention this because many of you will continue to be faced with decisions about supplemental
income during different phases of our lives. You can make a lot of money waiting tables or
bartending; but it eventually you may need to invest your time, energy and money full-time in your
new entrepreneurial venture. When should you do this? Only you can decide.
Our advice on helping you decide: don’t stress about it. Perhaps you can do what I did and take the
job that looks good on a resume, while still keeping some hours at the higher-paying job. Keep your
options open, keep earning as much money as you can, keep building your future career. You’ll
know when the time is right to focus on one versus the other.
That same mentor I had when I was a sophomore also gave me one other piece of advice that I’ve
lived by since then: you may not always know what you want to do with your life, but always keep
progressing and moving yourself forward. Keep working towards something and you’ll be okay.
Effort leads to progress.
Progress leads to options.
Options lead to opportunities.
Opportunities lead to money.
BUDGETING 101
EXPENSES - HOW DO YOU SPEND MONEY?
Now that we’ve talked about your income options and strategies, and that we’ve spent some time
being mindful about what we value and the decisions we make, let’s get to some actual financial
decision-making: budgeting our income and our expenses.
First, let’s do an exercise, another list. And let’s think about your expenses – or the money that you
own that you are choosing to give away in exchange for stuff or services.
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Take a look at your most recent bank statement or debit card account statement.
List 10 of your most recent purchases here – include the item and the estimated or actual amount:
1. ________________________________________________ _____________
2. ________________________________________________ _____________
3. ________________________________________________ _____________
4. ________________________________________________ _____________
5. ________________________________________________ _____________
6. ________________________________________________ _____________
7. ________________________________________________ _____________
8. ________________________________________________ _____________
9. ________________________________________________ _____________
10. ________________________________________________ _____________
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In this list, you probably have 3 types of expenses:
Fixed Expenses, or those that are the same every month, like a car payment, rent, gym
membership or media subscription.
Variable Expenses, or those that change from month to month, but always exist, like food,
utilities, entertainment and possibly your phone (or maybe your phone is a fixed expense).
Periodic Expenses, or those that might only happen 1 or 2 times a year, like tuition, spring
break and possibly insurance (if you pay it twice a year).
Did you include all of your most recent expenditures in the list above? Go back and make sure.
Now go back through this list and try to come up with 4-6 general ‘categories’ for each expense.
You can make up whatever categories you want, but here are some common ones: food, phone,
entertainment, school, housing, charity, gifts, indulgences. Maybe you have 8 categories – that’s fine.
Write down the category to the left of the number in the list above.
Now let’s classify each of these as “recurring” or “non-recurring.” Recurring means it’s an expense
that happens regularly – perhaps weekly, perhaps monthly – and will continue to occur regularly into
the future; rent, phone, food might all be recurring. Non-recurring means it’s an expense that does
not happen regularly; something like tuition for your children or yourself might be non-recurring,
even though you’re likely to be paying it 2-3 times a year until graduation. Gifts, entertainment,
charity and indulgences might all be non-recurring expenses.
As with most exercises in this book, the categories you choose and whether you classify an expense
as recurring or non-recurring is entirely up to you. There are no ‘right’ or ‘wrong’ responses. The
purpose of these categories and classifications is to help you analyze what you are doing with your
money. As we go through this chapter, we’ll work on being mindful and analytical about how we
spend our money, including thinking about expenses as non-discretionary and discretionary or
required and optional.
The list above only includes 10 of your most recent purchases. Now let’s make another list. Think
back to all the purchases you’ve made over the past 12 months – and list the 5 biggest purchases
you’ve made or expenses you’ve incurred.
What are the 5 largest purchases you’ve made or expenses you’ve incurred in the past year?
1. ________________________________________________ _____________
2. ________________________________________________ _____________
3. ________________________________________________ _____________
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4. ________________________________________________ _____________
5. ________________________________________________ _____________
Again, as we did with the 10 most recent expenses, go through this list of 5 expenses and categorize
them into one of your expense categories and classify them as recurring or non-recurring. If you’re
like most other people, most of your largest expenses are non-recurring – but that’s up to you to
figure out.
So, what’s the purpose of these lists?
The purpose of these lists is to help you identify and think about all of the money that is leaving
your bank account. You work very hard for your money and you’re choosing to give up that money
in exchange for all of these purchases.
Is it worth it? Are you getting your money’s worth? How important are these expenses? What are
your goals and what are your priorities. It’s your money – make it work for you.
BUDGETING 101
THINKING ABOUT SPENDING LESS
Let’s face it – life is expensive. And being an entrepreneur can be doubly expensive – because you
have to incur certain expenses to invest in your business while maintaining your personal life. In the
short-term, that can be both overwhelming and frustrating..
But you’re doing this for a reason – you’re an entrepreneur for the freedom, opportunity and
relationships being your own boss can create. It may feel expensive in the short-term, but you’re
making a long-term investment: you’re making a big sacrifice now in order to reap enormous
rewards in the future. You are going to make that investment pay off.
If you want to achieve your financial goals and to save money for your future and to give yourself
the most wonderful opportunities in your future, as long as you’re investing in growing your
business, cutting back on your expenses is probably the best way to save money to help you achieve
your financial goals.
So, what can you do to cut back on your expenses?
Take a look at the follow list of money-saving ideas and circle the ones that you realistically think
you could do in the next 3-6 months.
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Move to a better bank account
Give up your television
Give up a subscription
Sign up for free customer loyalty programs
Always make a shopping list
Stop eating out
Shop at a thrift store
Shop at a yard sale
Stop buying new video games
Cut your coffee purchases in half
Drink more water
Avoid convenience stores
Avoid fast food
Avoid alcohol
Quit smoking
Buy food and staples in bulk
Make a gift for friend or family member
No online purchases
Cancel unused memberships
Share your dreams with a close friend
Shop for new car insurance
Spend your free time volunteering
Avoid the mall
Only walk to places within 1 mile
Cancel magazine subscriptions
Eat breakfast
Eat leftovers
Bring your lunch to work or school
Only go to free entertainment events
Take public transportation
Carpool
Pack food for road trips
Eliminate cell phone services
Eliminate cable services
Spend 10 hours a week at the library
Learn about employee offers at work
Only drive within 3 MPH of the speed limit
Drive a different route to work
Eat less meat
Use coupons
Exercise more
Pay bills online through your bank
Many of these ideas are obvious money savers – using coupons, avoiding fast food, canceling
unused memberships. Many others are less direct money savers, where the financial savings come
from how you use your time or how you think about money. If you drink more water, you’re less
likely to drink other beverages that cost more. If you spend more time in the library or volunteering,
you’ll have less time to spend at the mall or online, where you might spend out of boredom or
stress. If you exercise more, you’ll also have fewer opportunities to spend out of boredom – and
you’ll be less stressed and feel healthier….which may make you want fast food less. If you take a
different route to work, you might be less likely to stop at a fast food joint less. If you drive slower,
you’ll save gas and reduce the likelihood you’ll get a ticket…keeping your insurance rates lower.
We encourage you to re-visit the above list over the next few weeks or months and re-think where
you might be able to save money.
For now, look through all of the items that you have circled and identify the 5 items that you are
most likely to achieve in the next 3-6 months. On the following page, write down what these 5 items
are and write down how much you’ll be able to save each month. If you can’t identify 5, just write
down the ones you can commit to; but really challenge yourself to come up with 5.
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And then once you have your list and have added up your monthly savings, sign the pledge to
yourself. Make this a commitment – a commitment to your future self that you are pledging to
invest in your future self, starting now.
1. ________________________________________________ _____________
2. ________________________________________________ _____________
3. ________________________________________________ _____________
4. ________________________________________________ _____________
5. ________________________________________________ _____________
=======================================================
TOTAL MONTHLY SAVINGS $
______________________________________________________________________________
My Pledge to My Future Self:
I hereby pledge to my future self to save the above amount each month, beginning today. These
savings are not “found money” and I will not spend it on other items. I pledge to move this amount
into my savings account each month. I pledge that I will not touch this money until I have clear
long-term plans for how this money will make my life better 5-10 years into the future.
______________________________________ ___________________________
Signature Date
______________________________________________________________________________
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BUDGETING 103
THE BEHAVIOR & PSYCHOLOGY OF SPENDING MONEY
Do you spend money when you’re stressed out?
Do you spend money when you’re anxious?
Do you spend money when you sad or depressed?
Do you spend money to compete with others?
Do you spend money for status?
Do you spend money to feel in control of things?
As always, there are no ‘right’ or ‘wrong’ responses to these questions. If you’re like most people,
you answered ‘yes’ to several. And that’s okay – as we know from many other emotional situations
and perspectives, simply acknowledging that an issue exists is the first step to addressing that issue.
Of course, many of the expenses we incur are necessary for living our daily lives: food, shelter,
phone, medicine. And we know that many people respond to temporary emotions by spending
money; the cliché “retail therapy” is popular because it’s real for many people. This behavioral
response to life’s issues is not limited to money; many people also eat to excess, drink alcohol or do
drugs to deal with personal challenges. While spending money may not have the same physically
damaging impact as these responses, it certainly can do damage to your long-term happiness.
It’s certainly okay to occasionally spend money on yourself to help you feel better or to celebrate
significant accomplishments. Being mindful of what money you’re spending and why you’re
spending that money is the key to determining how much it will affect your future.
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One popular model for thinking about the connection between your emotions and your spending
habits is the A + B = C model.
+ A Activating Event
+ B Belief _.
= C Consequences
The A/Activating Event triggers some emotion, negative or positive. This could be a grade or a
relationship or really any thought that leads to you taking some action or making some choices.
The B/Belief represents how that Activating Event makes you feel. The Belief is you internalizing
that event and choosing to respond to it in some way. The actual “belief” can represent a thought,
an opinion or an expectation. The key is that how we think about the Activating Event leads to
some response.
The C/Consequences represents our behavior. It represents the response. The Consequences can be
good or bad.
As you think about yourself and your money habits, simply recognizing the A + B = C sequence is
the critical first step. When the Consequences are positive, take note of that and try to replicate that
feeling and attitude with your future financial decisions. This might be something like rewarding
your children with a nice dinner after getting an A on a Final Exam.
When the Consequences are negative, we want to make the effort to analyze what we are doing and
why we are doing it. The A + B = C model might involve the following thought exercises.
1. Identify the A + B = C sequence. Notice what the A/Activating Event was and notice what
your emotional response is.
2. Identify that emotional response. What is your instinct to deal with it?
3. Try to figure out the underlying B/Belief that is creating your emotional response.
4. Decide if your Belief is rational or irrational…if it’s a reasonable response to the Activating
Event of if you are overreacting for some reason. Take a minute to ask yourself if your Belief
is logical and if it is helping your get somewhere or accomplish something.
5. Decide what you’re going to do the next time you get the negative emotion in order to avoid
any negative Consequences. Be specific. Have a plan. Stick to that plan.
The purpose here is not to beat yourself up for having an emotional reaction to a certain situation;
the purpose is for you to take control of your emotions and your responses that you can decrease
the likelihood that you will experience negative consequences in the future.
Obviously, this model is not specific to money management – but it certainly applies to how you
think about your money and how you spend your money.
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Here’s another challenge for you:
Once a month, when you’re in a calm and balanced mood, go through the past month of
expenses.
Identify which expenses or purchases were emotionally driven. Identify which could fit with
this A + B = C framework. (Your cell phone bill is probably not emotionally driven; but
some of your food and online purchases might be.)
Apply the A + B = C framework to these purchases. Analyze them. Identify the Belief and
understand why this Belief is triggering some negative reaction.
Make a plan for not letting a similar Activating Event lead to a negative Belief that triggers
negative Consequences for you in the future.
The math of personal financial management and health is relatively simple: spend less than you earn
and save or invest whatever is left over. Btu that is much easier said than done – and that’s because
we are complex human beings with amazing minds and powerful hearts. Our beautiful complexity
sometimes gets in the way of us letting managing our finances be as simple as it can be. The good
news is that the amazing minds that create some of our problems can also be put to work to alleviate
these same problems.
RECOGNIZE — ANALYZE — THINK — PLAN — COMMIT — IMPROVE
Use your amazing mind to take control of your financial planning. Use your amazing mind to own
your financial future. Use your amazing mind to give yourself the most incredible opportunities your
future self could ever dream of having.
BUDGETING 101
DETERMINING YOUR NET CASH FLOW
Now we can put all this together.
Ø We’ve talked about your income, or the money that comes in and adds to your wealth.
Ø We’ve talked about your expenses, or the money that goes out and subtracts from your wealth.
Ø And, we’ve talked about some mental strategies that you can utilize to try to take the emotion
out of financial planning to give yourself a stronger sense of ownership and control over your
financial future.
We need to do some math to see what all of this means…about today and about the future.
Ultimately, what we care about is Cash. We’ve talked about money. Money is our unit of exchange.
Money is currency. Money lets us do stuff. Money gives us options and opportunities.
And Cash is what we care about.
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We have a very simple calculation for determining changes to your Cash:
+ Total Income that you receive in a month or a year
Total Expenses that you pay out in a month or a year
= Net Cash Flow
If your Income is greater than your Expenses – CONGRATULATIONS! This can become savings
towards options and opportunities for your future self.
If your Income is less than your Expenses – then you have a problem. But this can be a big problem
for new entrepreneurs. There are a number of ways you can deal with this in a given period:
Borrow from your savings account – save money from positive months for leaner months.
Find opportunities to increase income (Uber, selling old clothes, part-time job)
Delay paying certain expenses, while being mindful of any penalties
Adjust expenses by finding alternatives (free concerts, public transportation, borrow books)
Do without certain things if absolutely no money is available – this is probably less painful
than you think
Borrow from a bank or other lender – we’ll discuss this in the next chapter.
If your Income is less than your Expenses – make a promise to yourself to change this. Make a plan
to take actions that either increase your Income or decrease your Expenses.
What can you change?
How can you increase your Income?
How can you decrease your Expenses?
When can you make these changes?
BUDGETING 101
NET CASH FLOW & TRACKING YOUR INCOME & EXPENSES
Having the right mental attitude is critical to managing your financial future. And there’s a lot that
you can do to think properly about money and to remove any emotions from your financial
decision-making.
But financial management involves a lot of math, too. Two will never be greater than three, no
matter how awesome your attitude and mental perspective are.
So, let’s do some math. You have already done a lot of the hard work in previous sections – you’ve
already gathered and analyzed your recurring and non-recurring expenses. You’ve thought about
what categories you should assign expenses to. And you’ve thought about some strategies for
reducing your expenses in the future.
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The last thing we have to do is put all of your income and expenses number together to determine
the two most important numbers:
Ø Your monthly Net Cash Flow Ø Your monthly Savings.
You want both of these numbers to be greater than zero. But that might not be the case for you in
every month – it’s certainly not the case for me in every month. Thus, in addition to just looking at
monthly income and expenses, we want to project what these numbers might mean for a full year of
income and expenses.
The budget template on the next page asks you to fill in two columns:
(1) Your monthly income and expenses. Go all the way through, including all income and
expenses you have for the current month. You can use last month or next month if that
makes the numbers easier. And do the math down to the bottom to determine “Net Cash
Flow,” or Total Income minus Total Expenses.
(2) Your annual income and expenses. For some accounts, this may be as simple as multiplying
the monthly number by 12 (like for insurance or phone expenses). But there may be others
that are seasonal, increasing or decreasing in certain months. Perhaps your income is highest
in summer. Perhaps your school expenses are highest in August and January. Take your time,
think through the income and expenses you might have during the next 12 months. You
won’t be able to get this exact. Don’t worry about this. The purpose is to get a good sense of
what the next year might look like for you, give or take a few dollars.
My trick with budgeting is to overestimate my expenses and underestimate my income. This
helps me be conservative in my planning – then, when I’m wrong, it will be a nice surprise.
The budget template on the page following that is a little trickier: it asks you to do the exact same
exercise for your future self. Try to estimate your annual expenses for 2 years from now, for 5 years
from now and for 10 years from now. Sure, the 5 and 10 years from now columns will be huge
guesses. But thinking through that now will help you be more thoughtful about your future and your
financial goals, especially when we discuss that specifically in Chapter 8.
The Appendix includes these same budget templates for each month; we encourage you to go
through this same exercise on a monthly basis to customize your budget for precisely when your
income and expenses occur during the year.
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THIS
MONTH
THIS
YEAR
NET CASH FLOW or
ADDITIONAL SAVINGS
TOTAL CHANGE IN NET WORTH or
TOTAL CONTRIBUTION TO SAVINGS
(Add "Savings" to "Net Cash Flow")
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2 YEARS
FROM NOW
5 YEARS
FROM NOW
10 YEARS
FROM NOW
NET CASH FLOW or
ADDITIONAL SAVINGS
TOTAL CHANGE IN NET WORTH or
TOTAL CONTRIBUTION TO SAVINGS
(Add "Savings" to "Net Cash Flow")
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What you just did required a lot of math, a lot of thinking and introspection and a lot of creative
thinking. Believe it or not, most human beings – including most adults in America – have never
done the exercise you just did…in their entire lives. And this might be one of the reasons so many
people struggle with personal financial management (and also why financial issues are frequently
cited as the leading causes of stress, divorce and other problems).
Congratulate yourself – Be proud of what you just did!
But don’t stop here. Effective financial management is a constant process that will always be with
you. The good news is that – like most investments – the more you put into it early in your journey
(now), the easier it will get in the future and the less you’ll have to worry about it in the future.
Let’s review the budgets you just prepared.
What was most the most difficult aspect?
Was the “THIS YEAR” budget easy or difficult?
What did you learn?
What did you learn about your future self – what did you learn with the 2, 5, and 10 years
from now budgets?
What plans, goals and dreams did you use in making these budgets?
What problems do you foresee? Do you have persistent negative Net Cash Flow?
What can you do about these problems?
What can you do to increase your Income?
What can you do to decrease your Expenses?
What about your emotional state as you estimated the numbers? Were you anxious? Did you
feel shame? Did you feel fear?
Looking back on your budgets, what’s your emotional state now?
As always, only you can answer questions about you. But we want to help you answer the last
question. It’s okay if your Expenses are consistently larger than your Income and you have negative
Net Cash Flow. Most new entrepreneurs do. Hopefully this exercise helps you feel a little bit of
control. Hopefully this helps you feel motivated and inspired to take control of your personal
financial situation. Like most problems in life, financial issues won’t resolve themselves without you
taking them head-on. You’re working through this book to better understand what you can do to fix
any problems and to maximize your future opportunities.
Relax, keep thinking, keep working and keep making plans to create a better future for yourself.
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YOUR FINANCIAL NET WORTH
Accounting…Assets…Liabilities…Financial Statements…Taxes…
If you fell asleep just reading that previous line, you’re not alone. Accounting is one of the most
challenging pursuits for many people. That’s also why it’s one of the most in-demand majors – good
accountants will always have job opportunities because they do work that other people hate.
One very valuable service that accounting provides is calculating Net Worth.
Think of Net Worth as your Financial Value – when you hear that someone is a millionaire, it
generally means that their Net Worth is a million dollars or more. Your Net Worth is a single
number as of a single day – it’s a snapshot of your personal financial value as a single point in time.
Calculating your Net Worth can be very simple: we add up the financial value of everything that you
own, we subtract from that the financial value of everything that you owe, and then we have your
Net Worth.
+ Assets = Stuff You OWN
Liabilities = Stuff you OWE.
= NET WORTH = Your Financial Value
Conceptually, that’s not that complex – But actually doing the analysis and the math to determine
everything you own and everything you owe can get pretty painful pretty quickly.
So, we’ll start simple – while we are focused on your personal finances here, you can (and should)
certainly do a similar exercise for your business.
ASSETS The things you OWN are your Assets.
Ø Your car, phone, computer, clothes, music equipment, furniture, textbooks, checking
account, savings account, investments – items like these are your Assets.
Ø When we determine your Net Worth and your Assets, we generally only consider tangible and
monetary assets – we do not consider things like “intelligence” and “earning potential” or
other intangible assets.
LIABILITIES – The things you OWE are your Liabilities.
Ø Your student loan, car loan, credit card balances – items like these are your Long-Term
Liabilities. You cannot eliminate them – you have to repay them even if you get rid of the
benefit associated with them (such as graduating or selling your car).
Ø Your phone bill, insurance bill, cable bill – items like these are your Short-Term Liabilities.
They exist on a monthly or periodic basis. You could stop them anytime, but then you lose
the benefit of the service associated with them.
Ø We add up your “Long-Term Liabilities” and your “Short-Term Liabilities” to get your total
“Liabilities”.
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Now let’s do some math:
Net Worth Activity #1 – If you buy a $10,000 car using $4,000 cash and a $6,000 loan, how
much does your Net Worth change?
Answer: Zero dollars, no change in Net Worth (assuming the car is still worth $10,000).
Your tangible assets increased by $10,000 (the car), while your cash (checking or savings)
decreased by $4,000 and your Liabilities increased by $6,000 (the car loan). Your Assets
increased by $6,000 ($10,000 minus $4,000) and your Liabilities increased by $6,000.
Net Worth Activity #2 – If you take out a $10,000 student loan to pay for the next 12
months of school, how much does your Net Worth change?
Answer: – $10,000, Net Worth decreases by $10,000.
Have your tangible or financial Assets increased? No…not yet.
Have your Liabilities increased? Yes, you now owe some lender $10,000 for the student loan.
You think/hope/plan on your education increasing your earning potential or well-being, and
you anticipate your future income or happiness being a small price to pay for this loan – but,
when you take out the loan, your Net Worth decreases by the amount of the loan. Sorry.
Net Worth Activity #3 – Your employer gives you a $3,000 end-of-summer bonus for all
the great work you did. You use some of this bonus to pay-off $2,000 of your student loan
and you put $1,000 into a savings account. How much does your Net Worth change?
Answer: + $3,000, Net Worth increases by $3,000.
The value of your tangible assets hasn’t changed. But the value of your monetary assets has
increased by the $1,000 you put into your savings account. Your Assets increase by $1,000.
And your Liabilities decrease by $2,000 after you decrease your loan balance by $2,000.
The morals:
Ø Increasing Assets is good.
Ø Increasing What you OWN is good.
Ø Increasing Assets increases your Net Worth.
Ø Decreasing Liabilities is good.
Ø Decreasing What you OWE is good.
Ø Decreasing Liabilities increases your Net Worth.
Now let’s re-visit Net Worth Activity #1. You have a car, that you paid $10,000 for, and you owe
$6,000 on the car loan – if you paid $4,000 in cash, has your Net Worth really stayed the same?
Maybe. We all know the cliché that cars lose 10% of their value as soon as you leave the dealer (or
whatever number the cliché tells you that you lose).
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So, if you paid $10,000 for a car that depreciated in value by $1,000 as soon as you got behind the
steering wheel, has your Net Worth really stayed the same?
No, not really. Your Net Worth has actually depreciated by $1,000.
+ $10,000 New Car
$ 1,000 New Car Depreciation
$ 4,000 Cash Payment for New Car
$ 6,000 Car Loan .
= – $ 1,000 Change in New Worth
Most other physical assets depreciate – or lose value – as soon as you take ownership of them: cars,
trucks, computers, phones, clothes, shoes and most others. Yes, they still have some value: you
could sell them on eBay or Craig’s List or in a garage sale at a pawn shop for something. But that
“something” will almost always be less than what you paid for them.
As an entrepreneur, depreciation can be a very important tax concept for you. We will discuss this in
detail in Chapter 7. In short, when you own a physical asset that does depreciate, you can claim that
depreciation as a business expense that will reduce the taxes you owe the IRS. We like that.
This is why we want to be very careful about what we buy and what our expenses are – yes, many
expenses are necessary for day-to-day living (phones, food…), but we all make plenty of other
purchases that are not essential (wants, not needs) and immediately decrease our Net Worth. New
shoes, a fun Friday night and a nice trip make us happy in the short-term – but is that happiness
worth decreasing our Net Worth and future well-being in the long-term? You have to decide.
We all have living expenses, some that are essential and some that may be more discretionary. And
analyzing these expenses is oftentimes the most painful part of financial planning – but it’s where
most of us can make the most progress towards our goals. One reason it’s the most painful is
because expenses – buying stuff – frequently makes us very, very happy. My latte habit makes me
smile and makes every morning more productive and enjoyable. But my latte habit takes money
away from other activities and goals that may lead to even more productive and enjoyable outcomes.
My latte habit decreases my financial Net Worth. Does it make my life better?
Well, only I can answer that (and the answer is ‘probably not as much as I think it does’).
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Now let’s switch from my latte addiction to your financial Net Worth. Think of all of the stuff that
you own – your car, your computer, your checking and savings accounts, your clothes…everything
else. In the table below, list your 5 most valuable assets – the 5 assets that are worth the most.
YOUR TANGIBLE & FINANCIAL ASSETS
1. ________________________________________________ _____________
2. ________________________________________________ _____________
3. ________________________________________________ _____________
4. ________________________________________________ _____________
5. ________________________________________________ _____________
=======================================================
YOUR TOTAL ASSETS $
When we make these lists, for now, only lists tangible items, such as cash, investments or anything
you could sell online or at a pawn shop. If you have money in a retirement account, either at work
or an independent IRA, you can decide whether you include that money in this list. Maybe include it
with an asterisk. Yes, the money is yours and it is an asset – but it is restricted. You want to avoid
thinking of it as money you can use to buy a house a take a vacation; you want to wait until
retirement to touch that cash. But it definitely is an asset that increases your financial Net Worth.
And, yes, you can certainly include your business ownership as one of your biggest Assets.
Now let’s do the same for everything that you owe – your Liabilities. Think of all of your financial
obligations – student loan, car loan, next month’s bills …anything else. In the table below, list your 5
most costly or burdensome obligations – the 5 liabilities that are worth the most.
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YOUR SHORT-TERM & LONG-TERM LIABILITIES
1. ________________________________________________ _____________
2. ________________________________________________ _____________
3. ________________________________________________ _____________
4. ________________________________________________ _____________
5. ________________________________________________ _____________
=======================================================
YOUR TOTAL LIABILITIES $
Now let’s calculate your Net Worth – also known to accountants as Equity. Take the amounts from
the two tables above, subtract your Liabilities from your Assets to determine your Net Worth.
+ Your Assets = _____________
Your Liabilities = _____________
________________________________________________________________________________________________
= Your Net Worth =
= Your Financial Value
What’s the number? Are you a millionaire, yet?
No? That’s okay – just keep working. Keep working to make it happen.
Is your Net Worth positive? If so, that’s great. Keep working to increase it.
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Is it negative? That’s okay – that’s normal for aspiring entrepreneurs. If your Net Worth is negative,
what are you going to do about it? Can you reduce your expenses? Can you increase your income
which can help you increase your savings? Will your salary increase once you graduate? How long
will it take you to get your Net Worth to be positive?
This last question may be very abstract right now – it’s okay if your answer is “I have no idea.” But
one of the goals of this book is to help you come up with a plan for increasing your Financial Value
and your Net Worth. By the time you get to the end of this book, your goal should be to come up
with a financial plan for your future – for both the short-term (the next 1-2 years) and for the long-
term (the next 3-5 years).
Hope is beautiful and is an essential part of us being human. But hope is not a strategy – you need
to develop a strategy that will help guide your financial future. Develop a plan to own your financial
future….starting right now. Please use the following table to more formally calculate your Net
Worth to help yourself think about your future financial strategy. Returning to this table and exercise
several times a year is a big part of a long-term financial strategy – and a big part of you achieving all
of your personal goals and dreams.
ASSETS LIABILITIES
Checking Account $ Credit Cards $
Savings Account $
Other Bank Accounts or CDs $ Auto Loans $
Student Loans $
Investments $ Property Loans $
Retirement Funds $ Other Loans $
Personal Property Total Liabilities $
(Value is market value, not original cost)
Home $
Cars or Trucks $
Jewelry $
Household Items $
Computer, Phone & Technology $ + Total Assets $
Musical Equipment $
Clothing & Shoes $ - Total Liabilities $
Other Personal Property $
Current Net Worth $
Total Assets $
YOUR NET WORTH
Statement of Financial Position
aka Personal Balance Sheet
NET WORTH & EQUITY
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THE PLAN FOR THIS BOOK
By now, you’ve pretty well figured out what the plan for this book is – to help provide you with the
knowledge, skills, perspective and confidence to take control of your financial future. We have
already talked a fair bit about how your personal values, your future goals and your behavior impact
your financial well-being. That is pretty much the plan for the entire book.
In this chapter, we’ve focused on how your values and goals interact with your income and expense
management. In the next chapter, we’ll focus on borrowing money (to help you pay for your goals)
and debt management. We start with these two chapters because they focus on issues that all people
– and especially entrepreneurs – need to manage. In Chapter 5, we’ll talk about building wealth – via
savings and investing – in order to give you the means to finance all of your future hopes and
dreams. Building wealth may not be a priority while you’re investing in your business; but we want
to get you thinking about Saving and Investing to help you see how much you can change your
future by developing habits that help you save in your teens and early-20s rather than waiting until
you’re over 30 to do so. From there we’ll focus on a few special topics that you’ll want to think
about before too long – like insurance, retirement and home ownership. That’s okay – read, think,
learn and dream, and you will be well prepared to take control of those issues before they take
control of you. In Chapter 7, we’ll go through a few personal tax issues that are unique to
entrepreneurs due to the overlap between your many lives. And then in the final chapter, we’ll tie
everything together, revisiting many of the themes we’ve covered in this chapter – such as values,
behaviors and goals – and then using that as a launching pad to help you achieve all of your personal
dreams and financial goals into the future.
There are no ‘right’ or ‘wrong’ answers to most of the issues in this book. Financial planning is
about you, about your situation and about your goals. Yes, this will require you to think creatively
about both your present and your future – but that’s okay. That’s how you make dreams come true.
Investments &
Retirement
Credit & Borrowing
Savings &
Asset Accumulation
Insurance &
Risk Management
Income & Expense
Management
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And, as we’ve already mentioned, just by getting to the end of this chapter, you’ve already done
more financial planning than most people twice your age have done in their entire lives. That’s quite
an accomplishment. Congratulations.
Be proud of yourself – but don’t stop here. Keep reading, keeping thinking and keep planning.
You’ll thank yourself later…when the work you put in today leads to new options and opportunities
that you’d never imagined yourself having just a few years in the future.
Relax, have fun, and enjoy this journey.
CHAPTER 3 SUMMARY
COMMIT TO IMPROVE YOUR FINANCIAL FITNESS
In the space below, please write down 10 commitments that you will be willing and able to make
over the next 12 months to improve your income and expense habits.
1. _____________________________________________________________
2. _____________________________________________________________
3. _____________________________________________________________
4. _____________________________________________________________
5. _____________________________________________________________
6. _____________________________________________________________
7. _____________________________________________________________
8. _____________________________________________________________
9. _____________________________________________________________
10. _____________________________________________________________
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Chapter 3 Summary
Budgeting: Income, Expenses & Cash Flow
In the space below, please write down 5 things you learned in this chapter that will help you increase
your Net Cash Flow, either by increasing your Income or decreasing your Expenses
1. _____________________________________________________________
2. _____________________________________________________________
3. _____________________________________________________________
4. _____________________________________________________________
5. _____________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
My Pledge to My Future Self:
I hereby pledge to continuously work to increase my Net Cash Flow. I pledge to make the sacrifices
necessary – over both the short-term and the long-term – to increase my Income and decrease my
Expenses in order to increase my Net Cash Flow and my future opportunities.
______________________________________ ___________________________
Signature Date
______________________________________________________________________________
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SPACE FOR NOTES, THOUGHTS, PRACTICE & PLANNING
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SPACE FOR NOTES, THOUGHTS, PRACTICE & PLANNING
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SPACE FOR NOTES, THOUGHTS, PRACTICE & PLANNING
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CHAPTER 4
BORROWING & DEBT MANAGEMENT
When people pile up debts they will find difficult and perhaps impossible to repay, they are
saying several things at once. They are obviously saying that they want more than they can
immediately afford. They are saying, less obviously, that their present wants are so important
that, to satisfy them, it is worth some future difficulty. But in making that bargain they are
implying that when the future difficulty arrives, they’ll figure it out. They don’t always do that.
Michael Lewis in Boomerang
Let’s start this chapter with a couple quiz questions:
Assume you have with $10,000 in student loan debt. You are paying 5% annual
interest on this debt. Assume you make monthly payments for the next 10 years and
completely pay off this debt.
During these ten years, how much interest will you pay:
(A) $231.95
(B) $1,268.41
(C) $2,727.86
(D) $12,392.84
For these 120 months, you will send a payment to your bank or lender. If you make the exact same
payment each month, that payment will be $106.07. The bank will take this $106.07 and apply some
of it to the interest that you owe – 5% each year – and some of it to your principal balance. Your
principal balance starts at $10,000, but it will decrease each month as you repay a little bit of it. As
the amount that is still outstanding decreases, the amount of interest that you owe will decrease, too
– so each time you make a new payment, you will be paying less-and-less interest and more-and-
more of the outstanding principal balance. Of course, if you miss a payment, your balance will
increase and you will end up paying more interest on the balance…and then interest on that interest.
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If you make payments of $106.07 each month for the next 10 years, your total payments will be:
$106.07 x 12 = $12,727.86
Since the total amount that you borrowed was $10,000, we can subtract this amount from the total
amount that you paid of $12,727.86 to find that the difference of $2,727.86 represents the total
amount of interest that you paid during these ten years to repay your student loan. Thus, the correct
answer to our first quiz question is (C) $2,727.86 of interest.
Let’s try a similar but slightly different quiz question:
Assume you have $10,000 in credit card debt. You are paying 18.99% annual
interest on this debt. Assume you make monthly payments for the next 10 years and
completely pay off this debt.
During these ten years, how much interest will you pay:
(A) $231.95
(B) $1,268.41
(C) $2,727.86
(D) $12,392.84
Common sense tells us that the answer is (D) $12,392.84 of interest. If the answer to the first
question was $2,727.86 when the interest rate was only 5%, the answer to this question has to be
higher since we now have a much higher interest rate of 18.99%.
And common sense is correct: In order to pay off your credit card debt of $10,000 over the next 10
years, you will have to make monthly payments of $186.61. During these 10 years, you will make
total payments of $22,392.84 in order to pay off your $10,000 balance – the difference of $12,392.84
is the amount of interest that you paid on your loan. Is that worth it to you?
GOOD DEBT vs. BAD DEBT
When finance people say “debt” they are referring to borrowing money – money that will have to be
repaid. And we frequently refer to debt as either “good” or “bad.”
Perhaps the math problems in the previous section highlight the difference between “good debt”
and “bad debt.” Intuitively, you probably recognize the student loan as “good debt” and recognize
the credit card debt as “bad debt.” But what makes that so?
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Technically, there’s no specific difference – it’s simply a subjective interpretation.
Does the debt change your life?
Does the debt give you greater earning power?
Does the debt help you cover life-threatening emergencies?
Does the debt allow you to invest in something you wouldn’t otherwise be able to?
Does the debt help you increase your net worth or future net worth?
If you answered “yes” to these questions, then you’re talking about “good debt.” Student loan debt
accomplishes all of the above, except perhaps the life-threatening emergencies. Some other
examples of “good debt” might include a mortgage on a house, a small business loan and maybe a
home-equity line of credit (but perhaps not – more on this in Chapter 5).
A couple more questions you should ask yourself are these: What sacrifices and opportunities are
associated with the debt? Are the opportunities more valuable than the sacrifices? When the
opportunities created by the debt are greater than the sacrifices associated with the debt, you’re
probably talking about good debt.
“Bad debt” is typically directly tied to “wants” rather than “needs.” We all have many, many wants
that we think would change our lives – we see celebrities driving their fancy cars and wearing
amazing clothes; we all dream of traveling the world, having lots of toys and living a life of luxury
and pleasure. But, unfortunately, we cannot all do that. Sometimes life is a struggle. And most of us
have to work really hard just to get by from day-to-day. None of us are entitled to living a life of
luxury and pleasure – most of us have to earn it. And earning it typically involves delaying
gratification, sacrificing many wants today, waiting for that life of luxury and pleasure, and figuring
out what is really essential in life and what is not necessary at all. “Bad debt” typically involves
paying for impulses and enduring some hardship in the future.
Think of the math problems we did to open this chapter. Let’s analyze these.
If you borrow $10,000 for your education, and you end up paying a total of $12,727.86, are you okay
with that? Think about this another way: What if you had $25,000 of cash in your bank account –
would you be willing to pay $12,727.86 cash for your education? That’s over half of your cash. The
answer is probably yes – because that education is likely to increase your net worth and future
earning potential by way more than $12,727.86 (plus all of the intangible benefits you get with higher
education, like knowledge and friends and purpose). Your student loan is probably “good debt.”
Now what about the $10,000 you put on your credit card? The question doesn’t specify what you
bought with this $10,000, but let’s assume it’s the same stuff most people put on their credit cards:
nice clothes, cool shoes, lots of really fun Friday nights, an enormous TV and a few really fun trips.
In the end, after you’re done paying off this loan, you will have spent $22,392.84 for all of this
stuff…even though the price was only $10,000. If you had $25,000 of cash in the bank, would you
spend over 90% of that cash for these cool shoes and fun trips that are only worth $10,000? You’re
probably shaking your head “no” right now; that’s what I’m doing. I certainly don’t want to sacrifice
an additional $12,392.84 of my future to buy this stuff today. I can wear my ugly shoes and take a
simple road-trip to the beach. When you buy $10,000 of short-term wants and end up paying over
$22,300 for them, that’s “bad debt.” It might make today more fun, but it can destroy your future.
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There are some types of debt that might be somewhere between “good” and “bad.” What if you
have to put your school textbooks on a credit card? If that’s the only way you can buy those books
that are essential elements of investing in your future, then even that credit card debt might be good.
What if you use a credit card to help grow your business in the short-term? What about a car loan?
If you buy in a 1966 Mustang that will only go up in value, then it’s good debt. If you buy a low-
priced, possibly used, economy car that’s essential for you to get to work or take care of your family,
then it’s probably good debt. If you buy a tricked out jeep or sports car just for fun, when you could
have spent $10,000 less to satisfy your needs, then that’s bad debt.
The key difference is “needs” vs. “wants.” Good debt pays for needs, bad debt pays for wants. And
you know what the difference is between needs and wants.
STUDENT LOANS & FINANCIAL AID
THE NITTY-GRITTY OF THIS KIND OF GOOD DEBT
The best investments I’ve ever made have been to invest in myself and in my education. My
undergraduate degree and my graduate degrees enabled me to obtain jobs that I would not have
been eligible for without those degrees. Those jobs led to more opportunity and more money.
But paying for my education was not easy. I was fortunate: my parents contributed to my
undergraduate degree. But I did work part-time through both undergraduate and graduate schools
and I took out student loans. One of the happiest days in my financial life was the day I entirely paid
off my college student loans – I was 29 years old and on my way to even more professional
responsibility and freedom.
Paying for college is rarely easy. Many students will earn scholarships and stipends to cover some of
the cost. Some students are fortunate to have family members help cover some of the cost. But, for
the rest of us, we have to rely on a mix of sources – family, work and loans. In this section, we’ll talk
about student loans and financial aid – but we want to remind you that this information is general
information that may or may not apply to you. Please stay in constant contact with your financial aid
advisors – both on campus and with your lenders – to fully understand your financial aid rights and
responsibilities. We all have different situations and different needs; only you can completely
understand your situation. Be proactive and take control.
With only a few exceptions, all loans you obtain through financial aid – whether federal, state or
private, need based or non-need based – must be repaid. As we will talk about shortly, the good
news is that you typically pay lower interest and you have a variety of flexible repayment methods. In
the following chapter on Savings & Investment, we will talk about how great compound interest is –
your interest earns interest, which you get to keep. That’s really cool – for saving and investment. It
stinks when you’re a borrower – because you have to pay interest on your interest. This is true for
student loans, just as it is for all other loans.
The following table gives you some idea of what the full, true cost of your student loan will be over
the complete term of repayment. This tables provides a variety of common student loan balances,
five reasonable interest rates and three possible repayment terms of 5, 10 and 20 years.
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There are many advantages or benefits to using federal financial aid to finance your education:
Ø The interest rate is usually much lower than you would get on credit cards or private loans.
The interest rates in the above table are reasonable student loan rates as of mid-2020.
Ø You don’t need a credit check or family co-signer on most federal loans.
Ø You don’t have to begin repaying your loans until you finish your degree or drop below half-
time.
Ø If you demonstrate need, the government will cover the interest on some loans while you’re
in school and for some time afterwards (except for federally unsubsidized loans for grad
students).
Ø If you repay your loans responsibly, it will increase your credit score and improve your
borrowing opportunities for the future.
5
years
$5,000 $10,000 $20,000 $30,000 $50,000
4% $5,525 $11,050 $22,100 $33,150 $55,250
5% $5,661 $11,323 $22,645 $33,968 $56,614
6% $5,800 $11,600 $23,199 $34,799 $57,998
7% $5,940 $11,881 $23,761 $35,642 $59,404
8% $6,083 $12,166 $24,332 $36,498 $60,829
10
years
$5,000 $10,000 $20,000 $30,000 $50,000
4% $6,075 $12,149 $24,299 $36,448 $60,747
5% $6,364 $12,728 $25,456 $38,184 $63,639
6% $6,661 $13,322 $26,645 $39,967 $66,612
7% $6,967 $13,933 $27,866 $41,799 $69,665
8% $7,280 $14,559 $29,119 $43,678 $72,797
20
years
$5,000 $10,000 $20,000 $30,000 $50,000
4% $7,272 $14,544 $29,087 $43,631 $72,718
5% $7,919 $15,839 $31,678 $47,517 $79,195
6% $8,597 $17,194 $34,389 $51,583 $85,972
7% $9,304 $18,607 $37,214 $55,822 $93,036
8% $10,037 $20,075 $40,149 $60,224 $100,373
Your Inerest Rate
Assume You Pay Off Your Student Loan in:
Student Loan Balance
Your Inerest Rate
Assume You Pay Off Your Student Loan in:
Student Loan Balance
Your Inerest Rate
Assume You Pay Off Your Student Loan in:
Total Amount You Will Repay On Your Student Loan
Student Loan Balance
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There are also two more big advantages that we’ll discuss in a little more detail here: (1) federal
student loans offer a number of flexible repayment plans, and (2) if you go on to pursue select
professions, the government will forgive some or all of your federal student loans.
Federal Student Loan Repayment Options
The good news is that the Federal Student Loan Program offers a significant number of repayment
options on how you can choose to repay the loans that you obtain for school. The (potentially) bad
news is that not all borrowers and loans are eligible for each of these options. Every loan is different
so be sure to know what your loan structure is and what your opportunities are.
With that advice, here are some the different repayment plans available for some student loans:
Standard Repayment Plan
Ø Payments are a fixed amount each month and your loans should be repaid within 10 years.
Ø This is the model that has been used in all examples in this book.
Ø This will usually have the lowest overall cost over the life of the plan – because it has the
least flexibility…and we always have to pay for flexibility in finance.
Ø This plan is not a great option for students who will be seeking Public Service Loan
Forgiveness (PSLF), discussed below.
Graduated Repayment Plan
Ø The “graduated” does not refer to your status in college but refers to how repayments are
made.
Ø You will make smaller payments initially – presumably as your income is lower – and the
payments will increase over time, typically every two years within a 10-year period.
Ø This is not a great option for students who will be seeking PSLF.
Extended Repayment Plan
Ø Payments may be fixed – as with the Standard Plan – or variable – as with the Graduated
Plan – to ensure that your loan is paid off within 25 years.
Ø Your monthly payments will be lower than with either of the above options, but you will pay
more total overall interest during the life of the loan, making the total cost higher.
Ø This Plan is not eligible for Public Service Loan Forgiveness.
Pay-As-You-Earn Repayment Plan (PAYE)
Ø Your monthly payments are 10% of your discretionary income, which is a calculation based
on your salary and the cost of living where you reside – but it will never be more than you
would have paid under the 10-years of the Standard Repayment Plan.
Ø Payments are recalculated each year, based on your income and your family size – because
your spouse’s loan balance might be combined with yours.
Ø If your loan is not fully repaid within 20 years, it is forgiven. Gone. Written off.
o But you will probably owe income tax on the amount of loan that is forgiven.
Ø This Plan is a good option if you are seeking Public Service Loan Forgiveness.
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Revised Pay-As-You-Earn Repayment Plan (REPAYE)
Ø Your monthly payments are 10% of your discretionary income, which is a calculation based
on your salary and the cost of living where you reside.
Ø Payments are recalculated each year, based on your income and your family size – because
your spouse’s loan balance might be combined with yours.
Ø If your undergraduate loan is not fully repaid within 20 years or your graduate loan is not
fully repaid within 25 years, it is forgiven. Gone. Written off.
o But you will probably owe income tax on the amount of loan that is forgiven.
Ø This Plan is a good option if you are seeking Public Service Loan Forgiveness.
Income Contingent Repayment Plan (ICR)
Ø Your monthly payment will be the lesser of:
o 20% of your discretionary plan; or,
o The amount you would pay on a standard plan over 12 years, adjusted annually as
your discretionary income may change.
Ø If your loan is not fully repaid within 25 years, it is forgiven. Gone. Written off.
o But you will probably owe income tax on the amount of loan that is forgiven.
Ø This Plan is not eligible for Public Service Loan Forgiveness.
There are other options, most similar to the above, with minor adjustments, such as when you
received your loan or how your file your taxes (single or married). The entire repayment process can
get pretty overwhelming very quickly with all of the various differences between programs.
As always, only you can determine which plan is best for you based on your income situation, family
situation and personal preferences. Here are a few reminders to sort things out:
Ø Flexibility is never free. It may be necessary, but you will pay for it.
Ø You will pay interest. And, you will pay interest on the interest. If you graduate with $30,000
in student loan debt – which is about the average in the U.S. – and have a 6% interest rate,
you will make payments totaling $39,769 if you repay in 10 years and you will make
payments totaling $51,326 if you repay in 20 years. Again, flexibility can be expensive.
If you’ve learned nothing else in this chapter, you should know that not all debt is created equal –
there’s good debt and bad debt. We generally think of student loan debt as good debt because it
enables you to have more career options and higher salaries than you otherwise would have had
without the loan – it did so for me. However, while the loan provides you with this wonderful
opportunity, it is your responsibility to turn your education into the best investment you’ve ever
made. And some – but certainly not all – of that will relate to the career you follow after graduation.
Student Loan Forgiveness for Certain Careers
If you’ve fully invested in a new entrepreneurial career, then student loan forgiveness for certain
careers might not be an option for you. But, if you’re still thinking about whether to leave your
current job and become a full-time entrepreneur, then understanding your options might help you
decide if it’s in your best interest to make that leap or not. Read on.
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Despite what you may hear from commentators and cynics, the government does make a lot of
investments in the future of its citizens. These investments can create new and amazing
opportunities for you and your future.
One of these future-focused investments is the lower interest rate on subsidized student loans the
government offers to millions of Americans. But, for many Americans, it goes even one step further:
if you choose a career that the government deems public service, the federal government will forgive
a portion or all of your student loan debt.
Ø Teacher Loan Forgiveness – If you teach full-time for 5 consecutive and complete
academic years in a low-income elementary school, secondary school or educational service
agency (like a regional school district), you may be eligible to receive either $5,000 or
$17,5000 of student loan debt forgiven.
o If you are a math, science or special education teacher, you might be eligible for
$17,500 of loan forgiveness.
o Other teachers might be eligible for $5,000 of loan forgiveness.
o Note – if your loan is in default or you have not been making the required payments
during those 5 years of teach, you might not be eligible for loan forgiveness.
Ø Public Service Loan Forgiveness – If you are employed by a federal, state, local or tribal
government, and you have made 120 qualifying payments on your loan (10 years), then you
may be eligible to have the remaining balance on your student loan forgiven.
o If you work for a qualifying non-profit organization, you might be eligible.
o If you are serving with AmeriCorps or the Peace Corps, you might be eligible.
o If you work for labor unions, partisan political organizations, for-profit government
contractors, and some religious organizations you might not be eligible.
o Amounts forgiven are not considered taxable income, so you will not owe income
taxes on any forgiven loans.
Note that this is just a summary of the programs and primary conditions – be sure to read the fine
print and consult a financial aid advisor to better understand that advantages and disadvantages to
each of these programs. And there may be other forgiveness options as you’re reading this.
Should you choose your career based on the potential ability to have your student loan forgiven? As
always, only you can determine that. We generally advise that you should choose the career that
provides you with the most joy and purpose. Most of you will be spending then next 30-40 years in
your chosen career, and this career will hopefully bring enormous joy and purpose to your life. Can
you put a price or value on that joy and purpose?
CREDIT CARDS
SELLING YOUR FUTURE TO PAY FOR TODAY
First and foremost, when you receive a message or letter telling you that “You’ve been pre-approved
for our credit card!”, that does not mean you’re special. You’ve only been pre-approved because
they want your money. They want to take advantage of you. They do not want to help you and they
do not want to be your friend. Ignore it. Shred it. Throw it away.
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The term “credit” is one of the most common terms in finance. When someone – a store or a bank
or a credit card – gives you “credit,” they’re giving you money – or, they’re loaning you money that
you have to pay back….with interest.
The words “credit” and “interest” sound like good things – in most uses, they are good things. A
reporter might give you credit for having a great business idea. You might take an interest in
someone at a party. You might earn interest on your savings account.
But, in finance, these words can be super dangerous – and that’s how lenders get you! These words
should come with a warning; instead they are used to entice you into buying stuff today…in
exchange for you paying a lot more in the future.
We have already talked about good debt and bad debt. We have already determined that most credit
card debt is bad debt. We have already looked at some of the numbers about the true, full cost of
using a credit card.
If you’re not scared straight yet, keep paying attention.
Let’s assume you have a great deal and your credit card company is only charging you 15% interest.
This 15% number is called the “Annual Percentage Yield” or APR. For each $1.00 that you put on
your credit card, you will be paying $0.15 additional per year in interest. And, if you don’t pay off
your credit card at the end of the year, you will pay $0.15 for each dollar still on your balance in each
subsequent year (meaning you will pay interest on the interest you haven’t paid).
What does that mean? It means that, if you pay off that $1.00 in 5 years, the total cost to you of that
$1.00 purchase will be $1.43. Imagine you buy a $5.00 latte with your credit card – if you take 5 years
to pay that off with your credit card, you will have paid $7.14 in total.
How does that feel – is a $5.00 latte really worth $7.14?
Maybe you still think it is. Okay, what if you find some shoes online that cost $100. Maybe they’re
on sale and you’re getting a great deal. But, if you put that on your credit card and take 5 years to pay
for them, that “great deal” will end up costing you $143. Not such a great deal anymore.
And these numbers get even more painful if you take longer to repay. If you take 10 years instead of
5 years to pay for your $5.00 latte, the true, full cost will end up being $9.68. Those $100 shoes will
end up costing you $194. You get to keep shoes worth $100 and the bank gets $94.
The tables on the following page show you the true, full cost of paying for a purchase with your
credit card assuming different credit card balances and different interest rates, assuming you repay
over either 5 years or 10 years.
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5
years
$10 $100 $1,000 $5,000 $10,000
6% $11.60 $116 $1,160 $5,800 $11,600
7% $11.88 $119 $1,188 $5,940 $11,881
8% $12.17 $122 $1,217 $6,083 $12,166
9% $12.46 $125 $1,246 $6,228 $12,455
10% $12.75 $127 $1,275 $6,374 $12,748
11% $13.05 $130 $1,305 $6,523 $13,045
12% $13.35 $133 $1,335 $6,673 $13,347
13% $13.65 $137 $1,365 $6,826 $13,652
14% $13.96 $140 $1,396 $6,980 $13,961
15% $14.27 $143 $1,427 $7,137 $14,274
16% $14.59 $146 $1,459 $7,295 $14,591
17% $14.91 $149 $1,491 $7,456 $14,912
18% $15.24 $152 $1,524 $7,618 $15,236
19% $15.56 $156 $1,556 $7,782 $15,564
20% $15.90 $159 $1,590 $7,948 $15,896
Annual Percentage Rate (APR) that the Bank or
Lender Charges You
Assume You Pay Off Your Credit Card in:
What is the Full, True Cost of Using a Credit Card
Amount You Put on Your Credit Card
10
years
$10 $100 $1,000 $5,000 $10,000
6% $13.32 $133 $1,332 $6,661 $13,322
7% $13.93 $139 $1,393 $6,967 $13,933
8% $14.56 $146 $1,456 $7,280 $14,559
9% $15.20 $152 $1,520 $7,601 $15,201
10% $15.86 $159 $1,586 $7,929 $15,858
11% $16.53 $165 $1,653 $8,265 $16,530
12% $17.22 $172 $1,722 $8,608 $17,217
13% $17.92 $179 $1,792 $8,959 $17,917
14% $18.63 $186 $1,863 $9,316 $18,632
15% $19.36 $194 $1,936 $9,680 $19,360
16% $20.10 $201 $2,010 $10,051 $20,102
17% $20.86 $209 $2,086 $10,428 $20,856
18% $21.62 $216 $2,162 $10,811 $21,622
19% $22.40 $224 $2,240 $11,200 $22,401
20% $23.19 $232 $2,319 $11,595 $23,191
What is the Full, True Cost of Using a Credit Card
Assume You Pay Off Your Credit Card in:
Amount You Put on Your Credit Card
Annual Percentage Rate (APR) that the Bank or
Lender Charges You
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Is it really so important that you have to have that latte or those shoes that you’re willing to give the
bank that much money?
Is it really so important that you have to have that latte or those shoes that you’re willing to give up
a big chunk of your future earnings to pay for them?
How much of your future are you willing to give up in exchange for something today? How much
pain are you willing to endure in the future in exchange for a little pleasure today?
What are the morals here?
Ø Try to only use your credit cards for “needs” and not “wants.”
Ø Find the best interest rate possible.
Ø As with any debt, repaying sooner rather than later is always better.
Now, credit cards don’t have to be dangerous, under 1 big assumption: If you pay off your credit
card balance at the end of each month, you can turn using your credit card into a positive strategy.
Why? Because credit card companies don’t make you pay immediately – they end your “billing
cycle” on a certain date, typically the end of the month, and then give you a few more weeks before
expecting repayment. This grace period can be very beneficial to you.
Imagine buying those $100 shoes on June 5
th
.
The credit card company may end your cycle on June 30
th
and send you a bill or statement at
that time.
You might be expected to pay your bill on or around July 25
th
.
Thus, you bought something on June 5
th
but didn’t pay for it until July 25
th
– that’s 50 days.
These numbers and dates are made-up but they are typical. Your experience might be slightly
different, but you can count on similar types of windows and obligations. If you pay off the entire
$100 bill on July 25
th
, you’ve just taken a 50-day, interest-free loan from your credit card company –
Congratulations! But, of course, if you don’t pay the balance in full on July 25
th
, then you start owing
interest (and, in most cases, the credit card company will start that interest-meter on June 30
th
, not
July 25
th
…and then you start selling your future needs to pay for your present wants.
Does your credit card allow you to take cash advances? If so…NEVER EVER use this option!
Cash advances are the most dangerous of all credit card features. They function kind of like making
a purchase with a credit card, but they have even more levels of danger.
You may be charged fees – similar to the $3.00 or $4.00 fee at an ATM, except these fees
may be much larger, as high as $10 or even 1% of your cash advance for larger amounts.
Interest begins accruing immediately and not at the end of the billing cycle. Thus, if you take
a $100 cash advance on June 5
th
instead of buying the $100 shoes, the credit card company
starts the interest-meter on June 5
th
, not on June 30
th
as it does for normal purchases.
Most credit card companies charge a much higher interest rate on cash advances than on
purchases. My credit card charges me 15.99% on purchases and 24.99% on cash advances. If
I take a cash advance of $100 and pay it off over 5 years, the true, full cost will be $176 and
not $143. Please don’t waste your hard-earned money on taking cash advances.
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What about penalties? Yes, that’s right – credit card companies love to make you pay penalties.
When you receive your monthly statement, the credit card company will indicate a “Minimum
Payment Due.” This is, perhaps obviously, the minimum amount you must pay by the due date to
avoid a penalty. If you do not make this payment, then you owe a penalty – frequently 25% or 40%
of the minimum amount due. Do everything possible to avoid ever missing a minimum payment
due so you never have to pay this penalty.
Finally, what about annual fees? Many credit cards charge you an annual fee simply for the privilege
of using their card.
NEVER EVER pay an annual fee on a credit card! There are hundreds or thousands of credit card
options available. You can certainly find one that does not make you pay an annual fee. Find one.
Note – for some businesses, there are credit cards that have unique benefits, such as purchase
insurance or fraud protection; it may be worthwhile to pay an annual fee to get these benefits in
some rare cases, but it will almost never make sense for individuals.
You may have noticed that I referenced “my credit card” above. That’s right, I have a credit card. In
fact, I have three. I use one for automatically paying my recurring bills – utilities, cable, phone. I use
another for periodic discretionary purchases, like a latte. And, I use the third for big non-recurring
purchases, such as airplane tickets. I do this to make budgeting easier and to assign my purchases to
different accounts in my mind – even if all 3 cards are tied to the same checking account. For how
my brain works, this makes sense. This process helps me with the accounting and it prevents me
from running up large balances on any single card without knowing what those actual purchases are
for. For many people, having and using 3 credit cards would be very dangerous because they would
run up balances on each without knowing what they’re doing. If you are one of these people, do not
use more than 1 credit card….out of sight might be out of mind, but it will still accrue interest.
Finally, to assure you that I am not being a hypocrite as I simultaneously warn you about using a
credit card and tell you about my own credit card usage, here are a few more ways I use my cards:
I have been using credit cards for more than 25 years and I have never paid an annual fee.
I have never paid any interest on credit cards – for over 25 years, I have paid off the entire
balance on each due date (“Minimum Payment Due” means nothing to me – I always pay
the “Statement Balance”).
I have never taken a cash advance from a credit card.
I’m not going to tell you to never use a credit card. But, as with everything, you have to understand
both the advantages and disadvantages associated with using one. If the disadvantages and risks are
greater than the advantages, then don’t use one. Only you can determine how your mind works and
any risks associated with your behavior – and only you can determine if having a credit card is too
dangerous for you.
Banks and credit card companies have beautiful offices and buildings. That’s good for them – but, I
don’t want to pay for those offices.
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YOUR CREDIT SCORE: ONE OF THE STRANGEST & MOST IMPORTANT
NUMBERS IN YOUR FINANCIAL LIFE
Let’s start with three simple “yes” or “no” questions:
(1) Have you ever heard of a “credit score?”
(2) Do you have a clue where it comes from?
(3) Do you know how important it is?
We’re going to assume that your answers to questions (2) and (3) are “no.” We’re here to help.
But first, a little history. Borrowing has not always been easy for all people. Prior to the 1950s, banks
and other lenders were very particular about which individuals and companies they lent money to.
Many of these practices were racist and sexist. Many of these practices were based on relationships
and not necessarily on the ability of a potential borrower to repay. Government regulators and many
lenders were looking to create a uniform, objective and consistent process to evaluate a potential
borrower’s ability to repay. Two individuals, Bill Fair and Earl Isaac created such a process in the
late 1950s – they named their company “Fair Isaac Company” and they called their product the
FICO Score. After a while of fine-tuning their scoring system and working with lenders and
regulators to establish its objectivity, the FICO Score became widely used during the 1970s. Its use
continued to expand and by the early 2000s it became the gold standard around the world for
lenders to determine whether or not a potential borrower is worthy or borrowing money – and to
help lenders determine what interest rate to charge a borrower.
That’s both good news and bad news. The good news is that we essentially have one global
standard, that is relatively objective, for evaluating whether or not an individual is a high risk or a
low risk. Using one single number eliminates much of the objectivity from the lending process. The
bad news is that this one single number is far from perfect as it can be systemically biased. Does
your SAT or GRE score properly convey how intelligent you are? No, of course not. But
universities use them more than any other number to determine whether or not to admit you –
perhaps because it’s easy for them, perhaps because they haven’t found anything better. The same
logic applies to your FICO Score – it’s not perfect, it does have some biases, and it does have some
weird features. There’s no way that it can fully and accurately represent your ability to repay a loan.
But, like it or not, it’s the best we have and almost every lender uses it.
Note – There are other credit scores out there. The FICO Score is not the only one that exists. But
it is the most popular, used by over 90% of lenders. Thus, while what we talk about here is specific
to the FICO Score, the general principles apply to the other scores in use, too.
So, how is your FICO Score determined?
There are 5 distinct, mostly objective, categories that the FICO Score includes.
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What does each category mean? Let’s evaluate them:
35% Payment History – This is perhaps this simplest category, as it looks at how well you
repay all borrowed amounts on credit cards, retail accounts, auto loans, utilities and
phone bills, other installment loans and other debts. The better you are at repaying,
the better your Payment History. Pay your bills on time.
30% Amounts Owed – The amount you owe is not simply about how much money you
owe, but it’s also about how much of your available credit you use. If you have a
credit card limit of $5,000 and your balance is $4,000, that’s worse than having a limit
of $20,000 and a balance of $10,000. There are many trade-offs within this category
and it can be confusing. Owing a larger amount can be helpful to your Score if you
always make the required payments. – this indicates good credit behavior.
15% Length of Credit History – This is also pretty simple – the longer your history of
paying bills and loans, the better off you’ll be. Yes, this does bias against younger
borrowers – but if your behavior in the other categories is strong, you should be
okay. Be patient – you’ll build your history.
10% Credit Mix – Perhaps ironically, it can be better to have 5 different accounts that you
repay regularly than it is to have just 2 different accounts. The greater the variety of
accounts you have, the more opportunity you have to indicate that you are a low
credit risk. Of course, if you have 5 accounts and you miss your payments, that will
be doubly bad. Pay your bills on time and the Credit Mix will take care of itself.
15%
Length of
Credit History
10%
New Credit
35%
Payment
History
30%
Amounts
Owed
10%
Credit Mix
COMPONENTS
OF THE
FICO SCORE
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10% New Credit – Opening a large number of new accounts in a short period of time
may indicate that you are a higher risk. So, is the moral to never open new accounts?
No – because then you can never indicate that you are a low risk. Be mindful of
opening too many accounts in a short period of time, pay all your bills on time, and
the New Credit category will not be a big issue.
So, are you more confused now than you were two pages ago? That’s okay – this is a very confusing
and seemingly contradictory number. How are you supposed to indicate that you are a low risk if
you can never get credit to be able to repay your bills?
Do not fret – there will always be small, incremental ways that you can indicate your ability to repay
your bills. Always pay your phone bill; always pay your utility bills; always pay your insurance bill.
Get a credit card when you can and intentionally only put $25 or $50 a month on it, repay it at the
end of the month and that will look great to your credit score.
Remember in Chapter 1 when we advised you to separate your business and personal financial lives?
This is why – to create separate credit scores for both you as an individual and for your business.
You do not want that credit card payment you missed in college to derail your business goals.
Everything you do can count and give you credit towards building your credit – be consistent, pay all
of your bills on time, be patient and your FICO Score will slowly improve over time.
There are many paradoxes here.
Having more credit can be a good thing – but only if you repay.
Using your parents’ credit can be a good thing for now – but it won’t help you build your
credit history.
Using a credit card can be dangerous – but it may be the best way to demonstrate your
ability to repay your debts and be a low-risk borrower.
Credit costs are higher for higher risk borrowers – which makes them even higher risk in the
future.
You have to have credit to establish a good credit history – but you may not be able to get
credit without a decent credit history.
Is it confusing? Yes.
Is it meant to be confusing? Possibly.
Is it biased? Possibly.
But it is reasonably transparent and there are certain rules-of-thumb that we can all use to increase
our credit score: pay all bills on time, be consistent with all payments, be conservative and mindful
of opening new accounts
Ultimately, your FICO Score will become an actual number – between 250 and 900. Why those
ranges? Who knows? It doesn’t matter. What matters is how your Score compares to different risk
levels. The average FICO Score for Americans is just over 700. The average in Louisiana is 677, the
second lowest in the 50 U.S. states; only Mississippi has a lower average FICO Score. Your job is to
help us change this – work to improve your credit behavior and help Louisiana’s average FICO
Score improve to being above the average.
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The specific Score is what matters, but there are five general levels or categories of Scores that you
should be aware of:
Below 580 Poor, or High-Risk
580-669 Fair, or Moderate Risk
670-739 Good, or Average Risk
740-799 Very Good, or Low Risk
800-900 Exceptional, or Very Low Risk
In case you’re curious, below is a six-month graphic of my FICO Score. You’ll notice several things.
It’s currently Exceptional…but it’s far from perfect. That’s okay – because the above
paradoxes make it very difficult to know how to make it perfect. And, at this level, there’s no
financial benefit to making it better.
It has varied quite a bit over the past six months – decreasing around the holidays as I made
more credit card purchases…even though I paid every balance in full, without incurring any
interest costs or penalties. In reality, I was not a higher risk.
Even when it dropped down below 800, it didn’t matter. I didn’t pay more on my car loan or
on my credit cards.
Do I care what my FICO Score is? Yes, a little, but I don’t obsess over it. I don’t really care if it’s
787 or 821 – even at 787, it’s good enough. There’s no additional benefit to me to getting it higher –
and I have no clue what I should do to make it higher. It might become a concern if it dropped
below 700 and I tried to take out a new loan for a car or a house – then I might have to pay a higher
interest rate. And it would certainly be a concern if it dropped to below 600, in which case I might
be denied credit or I might have to pay a much higher rate.
If your FICO Score is below 600, you definitely want to take steps to improve it. The above graphic
showing the 5 components of your Score can help you find a few ways to improve your Score.
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So, what’s the moral to you? Establish a credit history, pay all your bills on time, work to get your
FICO Score up above the average of 700 and everything will take care of itself. You can always
check your Score to see where it is, and if you ever get concerned you can contact one of the three
credit bureaus – Experian, Equifax and TransUnion – to get your credit report, which is the primary
resource for calculating your credit score. If you see anything on your credit report that is not yours
or is wrong, you can appeal to the bureaus and work with them to have it corrected. Be responsible,
be proactive, and, as always, take control of your financial future and you’ll be better off for it.
MAKING DECISIONS ABOUT PAYING DEBT
Back in Chapter 2, we asked you what you would do if you won the lottery. Let’s try that exercise
again, but now with different numbers and different options.
Imagine that a friend gave you a Lotto Scratch-Off ticket. And you won $10,000.
What would you do with that $10,000? Please rank the following 4 things:
1. Spend the $10,000 on a trip around the world ___________
2. Spend the $10,000 on a home entertainment system ___________
3. Put all $10,000 in a savings or investment account ___________
4. Pay off $10,000 of high-interest rate debt ___________
If you’ve been paying attention throughout this chapter, hopefully you would pay off the debt first.
It is the biggest burden on your life – both today and in the future. Paying it off, getting rid of that
burden, will free you up to begin working towards your goals and dreams – without worrying about
increasing interest rates or debt collectors. As you’ll learn in the next chapter, your second choice for
putting the $10,000 to work should be to put it in savings. When you deposit money into a savings
account, it earns interest; and if you leave it in the account long enough, the interest earns interest,
which is like free money to you (that’s called “compound interest;” stay tuned for more on that).
Nothing in this book can guide you on whether a trip around the world or a home entertainment
system if a better use of your lottery winnings. You have to decide that yourself. But we do know
you shouldn’t do either until you’ve paid off your debt and at least established a savings account.
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Now let’s look at that $10,000 of debt that you’re paying off a little more closely:
Imagine that a friend gave you a Lotto Scratch-Off ticket. And you won $10,000.
You’ve decided you’re going to pay off $10,000 of debt with your winnings. Very smart.
Which debt would you pay off first? Which debt would you pay off last? Please rank the following 4
types of debt in terms of which you would pay off first:
1. Student loan debt with an annual interest rate of 5% ___________
2. Credit card debt with an annual interest rate of 18.99% ___________
3. A finance company or pawn shop loan charging 3% per month ___________
4. An auto loan with an annual interest rate of 7.50% ___________
By now, you’ve probably noticed that many of the activities in this book do not have ‘right’ or
‘wrong’ answers. That’s intentional – many finance decisions are situational and personal.
But this one is not situational or personal. This one absolutely has ‘right’ and ‘wrong’ answers.
What’s the right answer or ranking for paying off these 4 different types of debt?
#3 should be paid off first. It has the highest interest rate (36% per year) and it probably has
the highest potential ‘other costs,’ such as someone coming to physically collect the debt.
#2 should be paid off second, simply because the interest is so high. Pay off your credit
cards every month to avoid the high interest rates, plus any late fees or maintenance fees.
#4 should be paid off third. This is actually a form of ‘good’ (or at least ‘decent’ debt). The
rate isn’t super high, and with an installment loan like this, assuming you make regular
monthly payments, you can establish good credit history and increase your credit score.
#1 should be paid off last. The student loan has the lowest interest rate and the most
negotiable repayment terms. You should pay it off eventually, but other debt may take
priority. Making regular payments can help improve your credit score, which is a good thing.
If you said you should pay off the student loan before the auto loan, that’s okay. That can be a
personal decision. Yes, the auto loan has the higher interest, but it also has a shorter term. Seeing
this shorter term may help make the end real for you. For many people, there can be something very
empowering about retiring debt – and this empowerment can gain momentum and inspire you to
completely pay off other debts.
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By now you’ve also probably learned that personal finance is both a math game and an emotional or
mental game. Maximizing the opportunities you create for yourself through financial planning
requires doing the math on some different options, but it also requires you managing your emotions
to best align your action and behavior with your short- and long-term goals. Retiring an outstanding
debt can be one of the most powerful personal finance investments we can make. It gives you
control. It gives you confidence. It gives your plan purpose. And all of those are very good things.
FINISHING HOW WE STARTED
HAVING THE RIGHT ATTITUDE ABOUT DEBT
Michael Lewis is one of the best modern day finance writers. He writes stories and books about
really big finance issues in ways that are readable and enjoyable for even the most novice student of
finance. And the reader always learns something from his books.
His book The Big Short about the 2008 Financial Crisis was turned into a wonderful movie (of the
same name); if you haven’t seen the movie, it’s a great way to better understand one of the biggest
shocks to the financial systems in history (your parents, bosses and professors lived through this
Crisis, and seeing this movie might help you better understand their boring stories about how that
Crisis changed their lives forever).
He followed that with a book titled Boomerang, which was a simple and brilliant study of how five
different nations dealt with the 2008 Financial Crisis and the following turmoil the hit each country
in the following years. One of the biggest causes of the Crisis was debt: money that individuals,
companies and nations borrowed, with the obligation to pay it back in the future, hoping that that
borrowed money would change their futures. Lewis ends the book with the quote at the beginning
of this chapter – as a warning to people to be mindful and careful about how we borrow money.
Good debt can be great, bad debt can be disastrous. We have to know the difference.
When people pile up debts they will find difficult and perhaps impossible to repay,
they are saying several things at one.
Our actions reveal our values. We’ll talk about this a lot in Chapters 2 and 8. When you
borrow money, you are telling the world about your values.
They are obviously saying that they want more than they can immediately afford.
We have to borrow because we can’t afford something. If we’re borrowing for good debt,
that’s probably fine; if we’re borrowing to indulge and live a life we haven’t earned, then that
could lead to serious problems.
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They are saying, less obviously, that their present wants are so important that, to
satisfy them, it is worth some future difficulty.
We are saying we are willing to trade current wants or needs for future sacrifices. The “some
future difficulty” represents what we’ll have to sacrifice. If we bought $10,000 of wants with
our credit card, we’re saying we’re willing to sacrifice an additional $12,300 of future earnings
in order to enjoy that $10,000 today. That’s obviously a very, very large sacrifice.
But in making that bargain they are implying that when that future difficulty
arrives, they’ll figure it out. They don’t always do that.
Where are you going to get that additional $12,300 from in the future in order to pay off
today’s $10,000 of fun? “Oh, I’ll find the money – I’ll figure it out.” With your student
loan, you have a clear plan and path towards figuring it out: the degree will help you get a
much better job that you would otherwise have, and you’ll be able to pay off your student
loan with your increased income. That makes sense. But is spending $100 on a fun Friday
night worth paying $223 for that night over the next 10 years? Where are you going to get
that additional $123? Will that fun night increase your earning power? It’s easy to say that
you’ll figure it out in the future – but that can be very difficult in reality. Be careful.
Use debt very wisely and very cautiously. You are in college to change your life. Debt can also
change lives – for the better or for the worse. You’re smart. You know the difference between
“needs” and “wants.” Use this knowledge to make smart decisions about using “good debt” and
“bad debt.”
Finally, whenever you take out debt – whether it’s student loans for your children, a business loan
for your entrepreneurial venture or credit card debt for a fun Friday night – make a plan for how
you’re going to repay that debt. You have to repay it. There’s no choice. If you make the plan for
how you’re going to repay it, then you control how it impacts your life. If you let the bank or lender
control how you’re going to repay it, then you lose control – and you probably lose a ton of money.
The choice is yours. Make a plan to repay your debt. Make a plan to control your financial future.
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Chapter 4 Summary
Borrowing & Debt Management
In the space below, please write down 5 things you learned in this chapter that will help you more
effectively utilize borrowing and debt in order to achieve your goals and dreams.
1. _____________________________________________________________
2. _____________________________________________________________
3. _____________________________________________________________
4. _____________________________________________________________
5. _____________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
My Pledge to My Future Self:
I hereby pledge to take manage how I use debt today and in the future. I pledge to minimize the bad
debt I incurs that will compromise my future. I pledge to be mindful and strategic about the good
debt I use and to have a plan for how good debt will help me achieve my goals and dreams.
______________________________________ ___________________________
Signature Date
______________________________________________________________________________
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SPACE FOR NOTES, THOUGHTS, PRACTICE & PLANNING
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SPACE FOR NOTES, THOUGHTS, PRACTICE & PLANNING
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SPACE FOR NOTES, THOUGHTS, PRACTICE & PLANNING
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CHAPTER 5
SAVING & INVESTING
Let’s start this chapter with a few quiz questions – these are easy questions because there’s not really
‘right’ or ‘wrong’ answers; please just pick the answer you prefer based on your own situation or
preferences.
#1 Which would you rather we give you:
(A) $100 in cash today
(B) $100 in cash in 12 months
#2 Which would you rather we give you:
(A) $100 in cash today
(B) $500 in cash in 12 months
#3 Which would you rather we give you:
(A) $100 in cash today
(B) $120 in cash in 12 months
#4 Which would you rather we give you:
(A) $1,000,000 in cash today
(B) $1,000,000 in cash in 12 months
#5 Which would you rather we give you:
(A) $1,000,000 in cash today
(B) $5,000,000 in cash in 12 months
#6 Which would you rather we give you:
(A) $1,000,000 in cash today
(B) $1,200,000 in cash in 12 months
These questions are designed to get a sense of your risk tolerance. Financial management is about
making trade-offs, usually between benefits today vs. costs in the future or costs today vs. benefits in
the future. Much of what finance does is put a price on time – the finance industry is built around
trying to structure investments that satisfy people’s preferences and risk tolerance over time.
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When you deposit $100 in a checking or savings account at a bank, that makes the bank happy. Now
the bank has an additional $100 that it can use to make a car loan or a student loan or a credit card
loan – and, as we all know very well from the previous chapter, the bank is going to charge us
interest on that loan. The bank can do this because money is limited and it is doing us a favor by
giving us that loan – so we have to pay for that favor.
Of course, your $100 deposit is valuable to the bank. You shouldn’t be giving your money to the
bank and doing it a favor without you charging the bank for giving it the ability to use your money.
Thus, the bank is (usually) going to pay you some interest on your $100 deposit. If you have money
deposited in any bank, savings and loan or credit union account and they are not paying you interest,
you might want to look for another place to store you money – your money is valuable, both to you
and to any financial institution, and that institution should be paying you for you doing it a favor.
But what’s the right rate for the bank to pay you to use your $100 deposit? And what’s the right rate
for the bank to be charging individuals and companies that borrow from it?
Determining the right rates to charge on everything is very complex – but, in general, it’s about
opportunities and risk. What other opportunities do you have to use your $100? What other loans
could the bank be making? What is the risk of the bank not repaying you’re your $100? What is the
risk of a student not repaying its student loan to the bank?
While we said that there are not any ‘right’ or ‘wrong’ answers to these six questions above, there are
some questions that have some responses that most people will have in common.
Questions #1 and #4: Most of you probably answered (A). If you have $100 today, you can spend
it, use it, save it, invest it and enjoy it. Why would you wait 12 months for that $100? Most of us
wouldn’t – and there’s usually no great reason to wait.
Question #2: Most of you probably answered (B), suggesting that you would be willing to sacrifice a
little bit in the short-term – give up $100 today – to earn a much great reward in the not-too-distant-
future - $500 in just 12 months. That’s a sacrifice most of us would be willing to make.
Question #5: In theory, the answer should be identical to your answer to Question #2. The only
difference is that the numbers are much bigger, exactly 5 times bigger. But these bigger numbers
make it feel like you’re making a much bigger sacrifice. The idea of getting $5,000,000 in 12 months
is super-exciting…but the idea of giving up $1,000,000 today might feel very painful, much more
painful than just giving up the $100 you had to give up in Question #2.
Questions #3 and #6: These are the tricky ones. Here the reward-to-sacrifice ratio is much smaller,
and we have to think harder and maybe do some math to figure out whether we prefer (A) or (B).
There really is no way of knowing – or of us telling you – which you should prefer.
And this reward-to-sacrifice ratio is what saving and investing are all about.
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Let’s focus on Questions #3 and #6 and think about all of the questions you might want to know
before deciding whether you’d prefer (A) or (B). Here are some of the things I need to know:
Ø What can I do with the $100 or $1,000,000 today?
Ø Do I have any immediate needs in the next 12 months – school tuition, medical expenses,
food – that I cannot otherwise afford?
Ø If I take the $100 (or $1,000,000) today and invest it and earn 21%, then I will have more
than $120 (or $1,200,000) in 12 months. Can I find an investment – with a similar or lower
amount of risk – where I can earn 21% or more?
Ø Can I borrow money today and pay less than 20%? If I borrow $100 today, owing 10%
interest, repay ($100 x .10) + $100 = $110 in 12 months, my net profit is $10 cash.
Ø What is the likelihood that the payer will still be able to pay in 12 months? Can I trust them
to make that payment in the future?
Certainly, there are other issues you might be concerned about. We all have different situations and
different issues that we might need to think about. The point of this is to highlight the notion that
financial planning constantly involves tradeoffs between the present and the future. This is not new
to you – being an entrepreneur is all about making sacrifices and determining tradeoffs.
Nothing is free. If you want something in the future, you have to give up something today. If you
want something today, you have to sacrifice something in the future. We can guide you on the math
and concepts that might help you figure out what tradeoffs make sense, but ultimately only you can
decide what your immediate needs are and what risks you’re willing to take.
For me? With Question #3, I would definitely wait for the $120 in twelve months – that’s a 20%
return and I’m unlikely to earn that much elsewhere. And the $100 is a small enough number that
it’s not going to change my life significantly. With Question #6, I would probably wait for the
$1,200,000 in twelve months. That’s still a 20% return that I would be unlikely to earn elsewhere –
but $1,000,000 today is a big enough number that it might change my life significantly. Maybe I can
take care of my parents with it; maybe I can invest it in my dream business; maybe I can give some
to charity and change lives; maybe I can retire. It might not be logical, but if it makes sense to me an
aligns with my values, then taking the $1,000,000 today makes sense. The decision – always – comes
down to making the trade-off between now and the future. When and how do I benefit the most?
CHOOSE TWO,
BUT NOT 3
BUSINESS SUCCESS
FAMILY &
SOCIAL LIFE
SLEEP
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SAVING & INVESTING
WHAT’S THE DIFFERENCE?
Before we continue with numbers and math and thought exercises, let’s take a break and go through
some conceptual definitions. You may be confused by the terms “saving” and “investing.” That’s
understandable – this book was written by a finance professor who is occasionally sloppy with
differentiating between the two terms. And I apologize for that.
At a fundamental level, there isn’t much difference. The money belongs to you, and you give it to
some financial institution to hold for you, and that institution may or may not pay you some interest
or return in the future.
SAVING
The money belongs to you.
Done at a bank or credit union through deposited money.
Risk – very, very low risk. The U.S. government guarantees all savings deposits up to
$250,000. That is, if your bank goes bankrupt, your deposited money is still safe.
If you deposit $10,000 into a savings account, it will always be worth at least $10,000. You
can go to the bank and withdraw your $10,000 whenever you want.
Interest Rates (or, rates of return) – Typically relatively low, because the risk is typically
relatively low. Historically, savings rates have been between 2-4% per year. Since the 2008
Financial Crisis, savings rates have been much lower, between 0-1% per year.
INVESTING
The money belongs to you.
Typically done in the stock markets through a brokerage or agent. “Investing” can also refer
to owning real estate or other creative assets, like Bitcoin or rare art.
Risk – can range from pretty low risk to extremely high risk. In finance, “risk” refers to
certainty or uncertainty of future returns. With investing, nothing is guaranteed. Some
investments are relatively safe and have a consistent, but low (4-6%) annual return. Other
investments are much more speculative with much more unpredictable returns.
Losing all of your money (-100%) is a possibility; so is doubling (+100%) or tripling your
money (+200%). Historically, publicly traded stocks in the U.S. have averaged 10-12%
annual returns over the past 100 years. Will that continue? Maybe – but nobody knows.
During the COVID-19 public health and economic crisis of early-2020, many stocks
experienced unprecedented and extraordinary returns during a very short period of time.
Tesla, the well-known automaker, saw its stock price fall by 63% in one month, followed by
a 150% increase in the next month. That’s a whole lot of risk, volatility and uncertainty.
If you invest $10,000 today, it may or may not be worth $10,000 tomorrow. The value could
go up or the value could go down. Over the last 100 years, on average, the value of
investments has increased by 10-12% each year. Out of these 100 years, investments have
increased in value 75% of the time and have decreased in value 25% of the time.
Investments have increased in value over the long-term but have occasionally decreased in
value from year-to-year. That’s risk, volatility and uncertainty.
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What will the future hold for saving and investing? Nobody knows. Perhaps the only thing that we
do know is that lower risk investments typically have lower returns, and higher risk investments may
lead to higher returns in the future.
So, are saving and investing the same thing? Yes, essentially. Whether you “save” or “invest,” the
money still belongs to you and you typically control it. The interest or return you receive will likely
be determined by where you store that money and how much risk you’re willing to take.
SAVING & INVESTING
WHAT’S THE DIFFERENCE – IN NUMBERS
Now let’s take a quiz on the difference between saving and investing.
Imagine that you save $1,000 a year for the next 40 years. You deposit this money in a traditional
savings account at a bank. The bank pays you 3% annual interest on your savings. How much
do you have in your account when you retire in 40 years?
(A) $ 75,401
(B) $ 377,006
(C) $ 442,593
(D) $ 2,212,963
Imagine that you save $1,000 a year for the next 40 years. You decide to invest it in a well-
diversified stock market fund. This fund will earn an average annual return of 10%. How much
do you have in your account when you retire in 40 years?
(A) $ 75,401
(B) $ 377,006
(C) $ 442,593
(D) $ 2,212,963
Imagine that you save $5,000 a year for the next 40 years. You deposit this money in a traditional
savings account at a bank. The bank pays you 3% annual interest on your savings. How much
do you have in your account when you retire in 40 years?
(A) $ 75,401
(B) $ 377,006
(C) $ 442,593
(D) $ 2,212,963
Imagine that you save $5,000 a year for the next 40 years. You decide to invest it in a well-
diversified stock market fund. This fund will earn an average annual return of 10%. How much
do you have in your account when you retire in 40 years?
(A) $ 75,401
(B) $ 377,006
(C) $ 442,593
(D) $ 2,212,963
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If you look at the possible answers in the four questions above, you’ll see that they are the same. So
those of you that are skilled with multiple-choice questions will be able to narrow down the options
by comparing across the four questions.
Ø The first question has the smallest savings amount ($1,000 per year) and the lowest interest
rate (3% per year) of the four, so it must have the lowest dollar amount in 40 years. Thus,
(A) $75,401 must be the answer to the first question.
Ø The last question has the largest savings amount ($5,000 per year) and the highest interest
rate (10% per year) of the four, so it must have the highest dollar amount in 40 years. Thus,
(D) $2,212,963 must be the answer to the first question.
Like any good multiple choice exam, it’s impossible to use common sense to decide between
the second and third questions and (B) and (C). So, you either have to solve the problem or
guess. I’ll save you the trouble:
(B) $ 377,006 is the answer to the second question, with $1,000 per year at 10%
(C) $ 442,593 is the answer to the third question, with $5,000 per year at 3%
For our purposes, it doesn’t matter if you got any of the answers correct, though hopefully
you now see why (A) and (D) make sense.
The purpose of these questions it to highlight how much better off you can be by saving a little bit
more and by looking for savings accounts or investments that pay a higher interest rate. And the
purpose is to get you to think about what it will take to achieve certain financial milestones.
Is it easy to save $1,000 a year? That’s $83 per month. That might seem impossible for you now.
But once your business grows, you should be earning more income and you’ll have fewer start-up
expenses. It might not be possible now, but it should be possible soon.
Is it easy to save $5,000 a year? That’s $417 per month. Obviously, that’s much more difficult. But,
again, once you graduate and are earning a regular income, you might be able to employ some of the
money-saving strategies introduced in Chapter 3 to help you save more as you earn more.
Is 3% a realistic interest rate to earn on a savings account? Maybe not. As of early-2022, most
savings accounts are earning less than 1%. But, historically, 2-4% has been the average interest rate
paid out on savings accounts – so maybe there’s hope that you’ll be able to average a 3% interest
rate on your savings accounts over the next 40 years.
Is 10% a realistic return on investments? Possibly. Historically, over the past 100 years, 10% has
been the average return investors have earned by investing in the stock market. We will talk more
about this and possible returns later in this chapter. But it’s certainly possible to average 10% during
the next 40 years until you retire.
The following table compares how much you’ll have saved by investing anywhere from $1,000 to
$5,000 per year for the next 40 years at a variety of different interest rates. The four answers to the
multiple-choice questions above are highlighted simply for comparison purposes.
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Many of your eyes may gravitate to the lower-right corner of the above table – and you may get
pretty excited. That’s great – make that $8.9 million your goal. Or, why not round it up to $10
million – you can get to $10 million with a 15% annual return by simply increasing your annual
savings amount up to $5,621. That may be unrealistic now, but keep it as your goal.
Even if you are fortunate enough to control your ability to save $5,621 each year – maybe you get a
cushy job, maybe you become a miser with your spending – unfortunately you will not be able to
lock-in a 15% return for the next 40 years. Based on historical returns during the past 100 years,
obtaining an annual return of 15% over a 40-year period is highly unlikely. But obtaining an annual
return between 8% and 12% might be more realistic.
If you can obtain an 8% return for the next 40 years, notice that you will become a millionaire
simply by saving about $4,000 per year. Drake would be proud. If you are fortunate enough to
obtain an 12% return for the next 40 years, you’ll become a millionaire by saving just over $1,300
per year; saving $4,000 per year would end up having $3,000,000 in your nest egg when you retire.
There are two morals to this discussion:
Ø The amount you save matters – save and invest as much as possible as early as possible.
Ø The return you get on your savings matters – taking on some risk by investing can
dramatically change your future prospects.
$1,000 $2,000 $3,000 $4,000 $5,000
1% $48,886 $97,773 $146,659 $195,545 $244,432
2% $60,402 $120,804 $181,206 $241,608 $302,010
3% $75,401 $150,803 $226,204 $301,605 $377,006
4% $95,026 $190,051 $285,077 $380,102 $475,128
5% $120,800 $241,600 $362,399 $483,199 $603,999
6% $154,762 $309,524 $464,286 $619,048 $773,810
7% $199,635 $399,270 $598,905 $798,540 $998,176
8% $259,057 $518,113 $777,170 $1,036,226 $1,295,283
9% $337,882 $675,765 $1,013,647 $1,351,530 $1,689,412
10% $442,593 $885,185 $1,327,778 $1,770,370 $2,212,963
11% $581,826 $1,163,652 $1,745,478 $2,327,304 $2,909,130
12% $767,091 $1,534,183 $2,301,274 $3,068,366 $3,835,457
13% $1,013,704 $2,027,408 $3,041,113 $4,054,817 $5,068,521
14% $1,342,025 $2,684,050 $4,026,075 $5,368,100 $6,710,125
15% $1,779,090 $3,558,181 $5,337,271 $7,116,361 $8,895,452
Savings Amount per Year
Interest Rate on Savings
or Rate of Return on Investments
How Much Will You Have By Saving or Investing Annually for 40 Years?
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Let’s do one more quiz question while working with this 40-year time horizon.
Assume that you have two investment choices:
(1) Invest $5,000 per year for the next 10 years and then nothing else for the next 30 years.
(2) Invest $2,800 per year for the next 40 years.
If you earn 8% per year for all 40 years, which option gives you a larger nest egg in 40 years?
If you just add up the amounts that you’re saving, the comparison isn’t even close:
(1) $5,000 x 10 = $50,000
(2) $2,8000 x 40 = $112,000
That’s a $62,000 difference. That’s $62,000 of less cash that you have to enjoy with option (2).
That’s $62,000 more that you can enjoy for yourself – on clothes, trips, a couple cars – if you
invest more early on in your career.
So which option is better?
Perhaps you’ve figured out that we probably wouldn’t be doing this example if (2) was better.
And you’re right. Option (1) provides you with a larger nest egg in 40 years.
(1) $5,000 per year for 10 years will become $728,867 in 40 years earning 8% interest.
(2) $2,800 per year for 40 years will become $725,358 in 40 years earning 8% interest.
The moral is simple: The more you can invest earlier on, the better off you’re going to be.
That’s due to compound interest, or interest-on-interest. When you deposit your first $5,000, it will
earn $5,000 x .08 = $400 of interest in the first year. Then, in the second year, that $400 of interest
will earn $400 x .08 = $32. $32 is the interest that your interest earned. This will continue for the
next 40 years. The $400 of interest that you earned in the first year will become worth over $8,000
39 years later when you retire – all due to the interest earning interest. It’s not magic, it’s math.
So far, all of the above examples have assumed you have a 40-year horizon for investing. That’s a
really long time – and it can be very abstract for a 20-year old to think about saving today (and
sacrificing today) simply to increase their wealth 40 years into the future.
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INVESTING – HOW DO YOU DO IT?
If you have never had any direct exposure to investing or to anyone who has invested, then it can
seem quite overwhelming just to get started. And, if your understanding on how to invest has been
shaped by your grandparents telling you how they used to invest a few decades ago, then you’re
going to be very pleasantly surprised at how easy it can be for anyone to invest – whether you have
$50 to invest or $50,000 to invest. Of course, it being ‘easy’ can also make it dangerous; moving
money around can come to feel like an app or video game, but with this version you actually could
be losing everything. Be very careful.
$1,000 $2,000 $3,000 $4,000 $5,000
1% $10,462 $20,924 $31,387 $41,849 $52,311
2% $10,950 $21,899 $32,849 $43,799 $54,749
3% $11,464 $22,928 $34,392 $45,856 $57,319
4% $12,006 $24,012 $36,018 $48,024 $60,031
5% $12,578 $25,156 $37,734 $50,312 $62,889
6% $13,181 $26,362 $39,542 $52,723 $65,904
7% $13,816 $27,633 $41,449 $55,266 $69,082
8% $14,487 $28,973 $43,460 $57,946 $72,433
9% $15,193 $30,386 $45,579 $60,772 $75,965
10% $15,937 $31,875 $47,812 $63,750 $79,687
11% $16,722 $33,444 $50,166 $66,888 $83,610
12% $17,549 $35,097 $52,646 $70,195 $87,744
13% $18,420 $36,839 $55,259 $73,679 $92,099
14% $19,337 $38,675 $58,012 $77,349 $96,686
15% $20,304 $40,607 $60,911 $81,215 $101,519
How Much Will You Have By Saving or Investing Annually for 10 Years?
Savings Amount per Year
Interest Rate on Savings
or Rate of Return on Investments
$1,000 $2,000 $3,000 $4,000 $5,000
1% $22,019 $44,038 $66,057 $88,076 $110,095
2% $24,297 $48,595 $72,892 $97,189 $121,487
3% $26,870 $53,741 $80,611 $107,481 $134,352
4% $29,778 $59,556 $89,334 $119,112 $148,890
5% $33,066 $66,132 $99,198 $132,264 $165,330
6% $36,786 $73,571 $110,357 $147,142 $183,928
7% $40,995 $81,991 $122,986 $163,982 $204,977
8% $45,762 $91,524 $137,286 $183,048 $228,810
9% $51,160 $102,320 $153,480 $204,640 $255,801
10% $57,275 $114,550 $171,825 $229,100 $286,375
11% $64,203 $128,406 $192,608 $256,811 $321,014
12% $72,052 $144,105 $216,157 $288,210 $360,262
13% $80,947 $161,894 $242,840 $323,787 $404,734
14% $91,025 $182,050 $273,075 $364,100 $455,125
15% $102,444 $204,887 $307,331 $409,774 $512,218
How Much Will You Have By Saving or Investing Annually for 20 Years?
Savings Amount per Year
Interest Rate on Savings
or Rate of Return on Investments
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In the past 20 years – coinciding with access to technology permeating society – it has become easier
and easier to make investments in the stock markets or other securities markets. The first thing you
need to do is find a registered and regulated broker – a company that is certified to make
investments on your behalf. The finance industry is one of the most regulated industries in the world
– because the government wants to protect your money. You wouldn’t hand over your paycheck to
some shady stranger offering to make investments out of their van; the government wants to make
sure that you don’t give your paycheck to any shady strangers on the internet.
Registered and regulated brokers – entities you should be able to trust – will be members of FINRA
(the Financial Industry Regulatory Authority, www.finra.org), which has been authorized by the U.S.
government to be an independent regulator of all securities dealers in the U.S. On their website, you
can perform a “BrokerCheck” to see if a firm you’re considering is registered; if they are not, you
should probably find another firm. You may also want to find a firm that is a member of the SIPC
(Securities Investors Protection Act, www.sipc.org), which has been charged by Congress to recover
or protect investors’ fund in the event that your brokerage firm faces financial difficulty or
bankruptcy. While we cannot guarantee the integrity of any individual company, all of the large
brokerage firms that you have heard of are likely members of both.
Ø Large, multinational full-service financial institutions, such as Citigroup, JP Morgan Chase,
Bank of America, Wells Fargo, UBS, Goldman Sachs, Morgan Stanley and others.
Ø Large, multinational specialty brokerage firms such as Fidelity, Charles Schwab, Edward
Jones, Raymond James, TD Ameritrade, e-Trade, RBC and others.
Ø Specialist platforms targeting different audiences, such as Robinhood, Betterment, SoFi,
TradeStation, FirstTrade, M1 Finance, USAA (for past and present members of the U.S.
Armed Forces), TIAA-CREF (for educators) and others.
Twenty years ago, you might have to go to four different firms to get your banking, investing,
insurance and retirement needs taken care of. That’s not the case anymore; most of the firms listed
above offer most or all of these services. That may or may not mean you want to use one firm for
everything. You may find that one-firm approach keeps things simple for you and that the costs are
not prohibitive; or you may find that using 3 or 4 firms that specialize and can each provide you
more customized products is better for you and cheaper. Only you can decide.
Now, what should you invest in?
Ø The good news is that there are tens of thousands – literally – of options that you could very
easily make with a simple phone call or a few clicks on your phone or computer. There are
so many options out there to choose from that you should be able to find an investment that
excites you and performs well for you.
Ø The bad news is that there are tens of thousands of options that you can choose from –
which can be overwhelming and can make it difficult to find the right investments for you.
Don’t fret – the good news outweighs the bad news here. You can be methodical and ask yourself a
number of key questions which will help you filter down what investments are right for you.
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Before you begin investing, you have to get comfortable with one critical premise: investing is risky
and there are no guarantees that you will get your money back. Once you get comfortable with that
idea, which we will talk more about, ask yourself the following questions:
Ø How much risk can you handle? If you invest $100 and it loses value down to $90 over the
next few months, how will you feel? The next section talks about risk in more detail and has
you measure your own risk tolerance. Your risk tolerance will help you figure out which
investments will work for you – and which will make you lose a lot of sleep.
Ø Do you want to investment in specific companies – like Apple, Tesla or Home Depot?
Doing this can help you develop more knowledge and a closer relationship with your
investment – but it may also expose you to greater risk of losing money. If this risk scares
you, there are funds you can invest in that do not have such risk exposure.
Ø Are you investing for the short-term (1-2 years) or the long-term (more than 2 years)? That
is, when do you need your money back?
Ø Do you want to invest in companies that you know or would you be willing to invest in a
company that you’ve never heard of (assuming it’s a good company)?
Ø Do taxes matter? We will talk about taxes in the next chapter – but your tax situation might
dictate which investments are best for you.
We are not going to go through all of these questions, but we will try to give you some very generic
perspective on the types of investments that are available to you.
And I am not going to give you specific investment advice – because I don’t know you and I don’t
know what your specific goals are. However, I will make one investment suggestion that most
relatively people can use as a foundation for beginning to invest: invest in Standard & Poor’s 500
Index Fund or Exchange Traded Fund. The S&P 500 is a basket of 500 of the largest companies in the
U.S., comprised of stocks from 11 different industries or sectors. It has a large number of
companies and it is well diversified. It is not as sexy or exciting as picking one stock and gambling
on it – for better or for worse. But the S&P 500 is a great investment for most people to use as the
foundation for an investment strategy: decent returns, good diversification, low cost, relatively low
risk, and very low maintenance. An S&P 500 index fund or exchange traded fund is the most
popular investment among finance professors who make their livings by studying this stuff. For
more detail on why we do this and what the benefits are, Google “warren buffet hedge fund bet”
and learn what one of our most successful investors thinks of the S&P 500 as an investment.
Beyond that one piece of advice, there are obviously many other investments you could consider.
The following table addresses some of the key issues that may help you decide where to invest your
precious savings.
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Type of Investment
Potential Return Amount of Risk Comments
Stocks - Large
Companies with
reliable income
Moderate - Historically
5-8% per year
Moderate. Losses are
possible, but should be
temporary
Good for long-term investors. Might
provide regular income, which you would
pay taxes on.
Stocks - Large
Companies with less
reliable income
Moderate - Historically 7-
10% per year
Moderately High. Pretty big
losses are possible, but
should be temporary
Good for long-term investors. Probably do
not provide regular income - you only get
income when you sell.
Stocks - Smaller
Companies with high
potential for growth
High - Historically
10-12% per year
High. Pretty big losses are
possible, but should be
temporary
Good for long-term investors. Probably do
not provide regular income - you only get
income when you sell.
Bonds - Corporate
Moderate - Historically 3-
6% per year
Moderately low. Losses are
unlikely.
Good for long-term investors. Will provide
regular income, which you would pay taxes
on.
Bonds - Government
Moderate - Historically 1-
5% per year
Low. Losses are unlikely.
You will get your money
back.
Good for short- and long-term investors.
Will provide regular income, but you won't
pay taxes.
Mutual Funds - Either
Stocks or Bonds
Moderate - Could be as low
as 3-4% or over 10%.
Moderate. Huge gains are
unlikely, losing everything
is unlikely.
Mutual funds pool money to make lots of
investments; your risk is lower but won't
own any specific company.
Real Estate
Who knows?
Nobody knows.
Very High. Be prepared for
anything.
Very sensitive to the overall economy. And
the entry price can be very high.
Yourself + Your
Education
Enormous
Very low if you work hard.
Very high if you're lazy.
Without question, the best investment you
can make. You get to determine how much
this investment pays off.
The Lottery Negative Very High
See the next Chapter - You should expect to
lose all of your money.
What Investment Options Are Available to You?
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -Amount or Risk You Are Taking - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
- - - - - - - - Potential Return You Might Obtain - - - - - - - -
Savings Account
Government or
Corporate Bonds
Mutual Funds
Large Company Stocks
Small Company Stocks
(High Growth Potential)
Real Estate, The Lottery,
New Businesses
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When you’re just getting started with investing, there are a couple approaches you can take:
1. Start with a small amount of money – whether that’s $20 or $2,000 – and just go for it. Pick
a few investments, track them regularly and be prepared to buy more or sell more should
you feel comfortable doing either.
2. Talk to a financial advisor. Note that they will not (or should not) tell you which specific
investments to make, but they will work talk through your options with you and help you
better understand the differences in the above table. This will help you be a little more
confident when you’re staring out – but advisors are not free. You will pay them.
Entire books have been written with hundreds of investing tips. Before you listen to too much of
that advice, ask yourself one simple question: If this person is so smart, why are they writing books
instead of living on an island in the Caribbean? Only you can figure out what advice is best for you.
But here are a few things to think about when you are ready to begin investing your savings – my
excuse for sharing this with you is that it’s my job and I don’t want to live on an island.
Ø I have never added any banking or investing apps to my phone, in part for privacy/risk
reasons, but also to make it less easy to lose money. I only do any investing or trading on my
desktop, where I’m focused and mindful of what I’m doing.
o If that’s not an option for you, and if your phone is your only technology platform,
that’s fine; just be very careful and avoid the temptation to treat your investment
account like a game.
Ø I check my investment account at least 5 times a week, every morning, just to check to make
sure there are no surprises. I trust the system and my brokerage, but I’ve never been
comfortable having an “out of sight, out of mind” attitude with my money.
o In fact, I check all of my financial accounts at least 5 times a week – including
checking, savings, investment and retirement accounts plus all three credit cards.
This helps make sure there are no surprises. It also helps me be aware of what’s
happening in each account, which comes in handy when I’m trying to decide
whether to get my pizza fix at Costco or at CENTRAL Pizza.
o Checking all of these accounts takes maybe 2 minutes a day. For me, that’s a very
small price to pay for knowing exactly what’s happening with my money. Only you
know what’s best for you. Take control and own your own investments.
Ø If you invest based on personal relationships, be prepared for losses…both in terms of
financial losses and potentially relationship losses. Supporting your family and friends can be
wonderful – but try not to get emotionally attached to the outcome of that investment.
Ø Nobody, and we mean absolutely nobody, knows how any investment is going to do. If
someone tries to tell you that they have an inside tip on an investment that is going to
perform incredibly well, they’re either doing something illegal or they’re lying. They don’t
know. Nobody does. Investing involves predicting the future.
Nostradamus died penniless – even he couldn’t predict the future. Don’t let anyone tell you
they have the perfect investment for you – because they have no clue. They don’t know what
the future will hold.
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RISK
HOW MUCH CAN YOU HANDLE?
Let’s take a simple quiz:
Imagine that you have $1,000. You want to make sure that you still have $1,000 next year.
What is the safest thing you can do with that $1,000?
(A) Hide it under your mattress or in a safe in your closet.
(B) Put it in a savings account at a local bank or credit union.
(C) Invest it in the stock market, picking specific companies that you like.
(D) Give it to me so that I can start my own flying car company.
The answer to this quiz is either (A) or (B), depending on how much you trust your roommates or
how much you trust financial institutions.
The answer is definitely not (C) or (D) – both of those options are very risky. Investing in stocks or
the stock market, in general, is risky; the companies have no obligation to return your $1,000 to you.
You invest in stocks hoping that the value of the stocks will go up – and that has been the case, on
average, over the past 100 years. But there is no guarantee that any stocks you invest in will increase
in value – or even maintain their current value – over the next 12 months.
And, well, you don’t know me and you have no reason to trust my ability to build a flying car
company. There’s no chance you’re getting your $1,000 back if you choose (D).
But, “safety” is not always what you want. We’ve already seen examples in this chapter showing that
investing has created more value than saving. That’s true, on average and over a long, 100-year
period. From year-to-year, the value of any investment can go up or it can go down. Yes, on average,
stock market investments have increased in value by 10-12% per year. This includes some years
where the value increases by 25% or 30%...but it also includes some years where the value decreases
by 30% or 40%. And, unfortunately, you have no idea what is going to happen next year.
This is risk. We have no idea what is going to happen with stock market investments over the next
1, 2, 3 or 5 years because they are risky investments. Higher risk and higher return go hand-in-hand
nearly all of the time in finance. Hiding money under your mattress and putting money in a savings
account in a bank have very low levels of risk – but, they have very low returns, too. If you hide
$1,000 under your mattress, it should be worth exactly $1,000 one year from now.
So, how much risk should you be taking with your savings and investments?
As always, only you can decide that. We will provide some rules-of-thumb later, but first let’s take a
simple quiz to help you think about your appetite for taking risks with your money.
Please answer the following 3 questions as honestly as you can.
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Question #1
Imagine I have a silver dollar that I’m going to flip, and I make you this offer:
(A) I will give you $100 cash.
(B) If the silver dollar comes up heads, I’ll give you $200.
But, if the silver dollar comes up tails, I won’t give you anything.
Which do you choose: (A) or (B)?
Question #2
Imagine I have a silver dollar that I’m going to flip, and I make you this offer:
(A) I will give you $10,000 cash.
(B) If the silver dollar comes up heads, I’ll give you $20,000.
But, if the silver dollar comes up tails, I won’t give you anything.
Which do you choose: (A) or (B)?
Question #3
Imagine I have a silver dollar that I’m going to flip, and I make you this offer:
(A) I will give you $100 cash.
(B) If the silver dollar comes up heads, I’ll give you $220.
But, if the silver dollar comes up tails, I won’t give you anything.
Which do you choose: (A) or (B)?
You know how we have been saying that there are no “right” or “wrong” responses in this book?
Well, that’s only kind of true here – only you can decide what you want to do, but this is a case
where there are answers that most people “should” choose.
In Questions #1 and #2, you should be indifferent between (A) and (B). In both cases, the amount
of money that you expect me to give you is the same: $100 in Question #1 and $10,000 in Question
#2, assuming my silver dollar is fair and not rigged.
But research has shown that most humans prefer (A) to (B). Why? Because we hate losing money.
And, option (A) is a sure thing – you’re guaranteed of something. Most people do not want to risk
‘losing’ this something based on the flip of a coin.
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Did you choose the same answer in both Questions #1 and #2? Finance theory says you should –
but not all people do. More people choose (A) in #2 than in #1 – because the ‘loss’ is much bigger
in #2. We internalize that ‘loss’ and the chance of the coin coming up tails scares us. We want to
avoid that pain, so we frequently take the sure thing in order to avoid that pain.
If you chose (B) in #1 or #2, then you surely chose (B) in Question #3.
But did you choose (A) in #1 and #2 but (B) in Question #3? With (B) you expect to receive $110
(50% chance of $0 + 50% chance of $220), while with (A) you only expect to receive $100 – but
there is still a chance that you’ll end up with $0. Does that scare you? Or does the slightly higher
potential cash prize in (B) make you willing to take the risk and hope that the coin comes up heads?
Did you choose (A) in Question #3? That’s okay. But take a minute to think about yourself: If a
50% chance at $220 is not enough incentive to entice you to take the risk, how much would you
need to receive for the silver dollar coming up heads in order to choose (B)?
Ultimately, there is not a right or wrong answer to this. Finance theory may think you should choose
a specific response, but only you can choose which options you like best. If the promise of the sure
thing excites you and the possibility of ending up with nothing scares you, regardless of how high
the potential upside might be with (B), then going with (A) is the right option for you. Option (A)
might help you be less anxious and might help you sleep better at night. Those are good things.
This simple exercise helps you identify your level of risk tolerance. A financial advisor – or even a
financial health & planning guidebook – can help you explore your different savings and investing
options based on how much risk you are willing to expose your money to, but only you can decide
how much risk you’re willing to take and what you’re comfortable doing.
There are dozens of useful exercises and quizzes available to help you determine your personal risk
tolerance – all of you will have different levels of desired risk. One common rule-of-thumb is this: if
you make an investment and it causes you so much anxiety that you can’t sleep at night, then that
investment is probably too risky for you. The Appendix includes an exercise called the Global
Portfolio Allocation Scoring System (PASS) for individual Investors, which asks you a few questions
to help you determine your risk tolerance. It’s a very popular tool, in part because it quantifies your
risk tolerance – it puts a number on it. Please take a look at it when you get a chance.
But not everyone needs to put a number on their risk tolerance; when financial advisors are working
with clients, they don’t always do that. What they do is assess general levels of risk tolerance, ranging
from high to low. The following figure is a simple one that captures the subtle but significant
differences between different levels of risk. Think about yourself and your own goals, attitudes and
plans to see what level of risk tolerance you have.
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You will figure out your risk tolerance over time, as you make investments and find yourself very
comfortable or very anxious about the level of risk that you’re taking. You’ll know. And your risk
tolerance will change over time – as you get older, as your family situation changes, as you have
children, as you change jobs or careers. That’s normal – but then be sure to change your investment
portfolios and goals accordingly.
As promised, here are a few rules-of-thumb that may help you think about your risk appetite and
how that might guide your savings and investing decisions:
Ø Risk & Return usually go hand-in-hand: higher risk usually leads to higher returns. But not
always. Risk is called “risk” because it’s risky and nothing is guaranteed.
Ø When do you need your money? The sooner you will need your money – for a big purchase,
for a new house, for a wedding, for retirement – then the less risk you’ll want to take.
Ø In general, the younger you are, the more risk you can handle.
Ø In general, the older you are, the less risk you should take.
Ø What happens if your investments lose 40% of their value next year? How would you feel?
Ø Do you have a lot of high-interest rate debt, such as credit card debt? If so, you might want
to pay this off before investing in anything.
o Getting rid of debt with an 18.99% interest rate is equivalent to earning a guaranteed
18.99% return – which is pretty awesome.
Ø Do you have 3-6 months saved up in an “Emergency Fund?” If not, perhaps you save up
until you do – and then look to make riskier investments.
High Risk Attitude
I want to summer in Paris and winter in Hawaii
Medium-High Risk Attitude
I will work through normal retirement age, but I want my
spouse to retire early - and we want to visit Paris & Hawaii
Medium-Low Risk Attitude
I want my children to have a college education
Low Risk Attitude
I want food on the table and a roof over my head
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I am biased because I am a finance professor. I study investing and I teach investing. My perspective
on risk may be meaningless to you. Do not take my advice on what level of risk you should take.
Personal finance is very personal. It is about you. Do not compare yourself to other people. Do not
expect ‘experts’ and advisors to make all your decisions for you. Your goals belong to you. Only you
know what is best for you. Only you can determine how much risk you want to take.
As an entrepreneur, your short-term priority might be investing in and growing your business – and
rightly so. There are many ways to make investments. The stock option is one option, but owning
your own business is another option…that can have enormous financial, social and family benefits.
You get to control your investments; make investments that give your life the most joy.
Be thoughtful, be prudent. Avoid doing things that you know are stupid and that you know will
cause you stress. But don’t be afraid of taking risks just because they scare you. You have already
taken many, many risks in your life. Taking informed and measured risks will continue to open many
doors and opportunities for you – in both your personal and financial lives.
Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn’t do than
by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the
trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover.
– Mark Twain
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Chapter 5 Summary
Saving & Investing
In the space below, please write down 5 things you learned in this chapter that will help you become
a better saver and investor today and in the future.
1. _____________________________________________________________
2. _____________________________________________________________
3. _____________________________________________________________
4. _____________________________________________________________
5. _____________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
My Pledge to My Future Self:
I hereby pledge to take control of my financial future by choosing to use my excess Net Cash Flow
to increase my saving and investing. I pledge to align my saving and investing choices with my
financial goals so that the sacrifices I make today lead to clear and significant benefits in the future.
______________________________________ ___________________________
Signature Date
______________________________________________________________________________
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SPACE FOR NOTES, THOUGHTS, PRACTICE & PLANNING
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SPACE FOR NOTES, THOUGHTS, PRACTICE & PLANNING
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CHAPTER 6
INSURANCE, TAXES, RETIREMENT
and OTHER SPECIAL TOPICS
This chapter is titled “Special Topics” because we couldn’t figure out a better name. These topics are
as “critical” as they are “special.” Do not assume that these topics do not apply to you; most of
these topics apply to all of you. Some of these topics – insurance and taxes, specifically – comprise
entire financial plans. There is no way we can do those topics justice with a few pages in this book.
In fact, taxes can be such a unique issue for entrepreneurs that we have dedicated the entire next
chapter to them. We simply wanted to introduce these topics to put them on your radar, to make
sure you are regularly thinking about then, and for you to have as a resource when any of these
issues become of more immediate concern to you.
In Chapter 1, we advised you to build your personal and business financial team as soon as possible..
Insurance, taxes and retirement are areas where even the most experienced and confident financial
planners can frequently benefit from professional advisors. You might not want to rely on them so
much that you pay for their next home, but you do want to make sure that you know what you’re
doing and are not exposing yourself to serious financial risk. When you need help, get it.
As a reminder, this is a personal finance book. This book is about you, not your business. Thus, in
this chapter, we discuss the insurance, taxes and retirement issues that you need to know about for
yourself and for your family – not for your business.
INSURANCE
WHAT DO YOU NEED & WHEN DO YOU NEED IT?
“Insurance”
“Risk Management”
“Protecting What You Have”
“Protecting What You’ve Earned”
“Taking Care of Your Loved-Ones”
If you’re over 24 or 25-years old, then this section may be the most important section in the book
for you. If you’re 18 or 19-years old, it may not seem immediately relevant to you; but it will soon
become extremely important and it will have a direct impact on your financial health and flexibility,
for the rest of your life. Most people do not really know what insurance is, what it does, and what it
can and cannot do for you – only that you may have to have some. One scary reality of life is that
you, like legions of others, likely will end up spending more out of your own pocket for insurance
and insurance-related items – for the rest of your life than you will pay for each and every other
category of personal expenses, except for housing. You will have insurance on your cars, your
homes, your life, your health, your prescriptions, your teeth, your eyes, your potential disability from
work, your pension or retirement plans, and your business – to name just a few. We do this because
we are risk averse – we want to protect against worst case scenarios in our lives.
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Understanding insurance can seem overwhelming to many people. But, understanding insurance also
will help you to make better business decisions, whether you ultimately go to work for someone else
or for yourself. And, understanding insurance can help you be a better citizen, as many politicians
often foster and take advantage of public ignorance or common misconceptions about insurance
(even their own) to better their own personal situation or their re-election chances..
The previous chapter was the sexy stuff – investing and turning a few thousand dollars a year into a
multi-million dollar retirement portfolio. That’s fun to dream about. Few people dream about
insurance…but many people have nightmares resulting from not having insurance, or not having the
right insurance, when they need it most. We want to help you avoid those nightmares.
Insurance is protection. When something bad happens – and very bad things frequently do happen
– insurance exists to protect you against the financial and emotional pain caused by those bad things.
You have worked hard to get to where you are, to acquire all of the possessions you have and to
have the career earning potential that you have - insurance is there to help you make sure you don’t
waste that effort and lose it all.
In this Chapter we will discuss three different types of insurance coverage:
1. Property and Casualty Insurance (protecting your car, home, and other stuff) –
commonly known as “Liability” insurance;
2. Health Insurance (protecting your physical and mental wellbeing); and,
3. Disability and Life Insurance (protecting your income).
There are many, many other specific types of insurance we could talk about – flood insurance,
earthquake insurance, insurance against identity fraud, business insurance. We will not talk about all
of them. Professionals actually can be your best friends here – an insurance agent or broker can
explain the different types of coverage, your options, and your obligations. But you still will make all
the decisions. Some types of insurance are required by law (such as automobile liability insurance),
some are required by lenders (such as homeowner’s, or automobile collision and/or other-than-
collision insurance), while others may help you satisfy your own personal unique needs (such as
renter’s insurance, disability insurance or life insurance).
You will have to decide what you want to protect, and an agent can help you identify your options.
But, as always – the agent or broker is providing you a service, for which you pay. You are buying an
insurance product; sometimes this product makes your life better, other times it may not or may not
seem to be making your life better. You should shop around, to identify a trusted agent or broker
with whom you establish a good working relationship because there is tremendous competition and
great disparity among level of service, available coverages, and cost across all insurance companies
and competitive markets. Become an informed consumer, and take control of your money, your
budget, and your future.
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Property & Casualty Insurance
Protecting What You have
Let’s begin our discussion of property and casualty insurance with a simple activity:
Think of your five most valuable assets; think of ‘personal use’ assets, not financial assets or other
intangible assets. Think of things; think of your stuff. This could be your car, your phone, a watch,
jewelry, a media center, your clothes – whatever you own that would be most expensive to replace.
In the space below, write down these assets on the left with their replacement value on the right.
1. ________________________________________________ _____________
2. ________________________________________________ _____________
3. ________________________________________________ _____________
4. ________________________________________________ _____________
5. ________________________________________________ _____________
=======================================================
YOUR TOTAL PERSONAL USE ASSETS $
Now refer back to the Balance Sheet and Net Worth exercises you did in Chapter 3 when you
determined how much Cash and overall Net Worth you have.
Ø If a thief broke into your home, and stole all the assets you have listed above, would you
have enough cash to replace them?
Ø Is your Net Worth more, or less, than the value of those stolen items?
Ø What would your Net Worth be after all those items are stolen?
Ø What future opportunities – school, vacation, even work – would you then have to sacrifice?
Ø How much time, energy and stress will you have to expend to get your life back to normal?
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Property and casualty insurance exists to help minimize your financial and emotional pain when your
personal assets are damaged, lost, stolen or otherwise compromised. But, of course, insurance is not
free. Let’s quickly take a look at how insurance works. We will first consider the basic example of
insuring your car, but the general process can be very similar for other assets and types of insurance.
Personal Automobile Insurance
Assume that you just bought yourself a new car for $15,000.
Ø You agree to an insurance contract with an insurance company - your “insurance policy.”
You agree to make pre-specified periodic payments (to pay “premiums”) in exchange for the
insurance company paying out in the event of a covered accident, theft, or some other loss
during the policy period. Property/casualty insurance policies typically provide you coverage
for a policy period of one (1) year, which may be renewed or extended.
Ø You will negotiate options available in your insurance policy with the company. They will
offer you a figurative buffet of options – and you must pick and choose which of these
options you want coverage for (and for which you are willing to pay). Your agent or broker
also can help you out a lot here - it’s part of the service they offer
Ø In the case of car insurance, all states have laws mandating that drivers maintain certain
minimum automobile liability coverage (liability insurance pays for bodily injury or property
damage losses that you may cause to somebody else – to other people). You typically must be
able to show “proof of insurance” that you own an auto policy with at least your state’s
minimum liability coverage in place to even get or renew a drivers’ license, to get/renew
your auto license tags or vehicle inspection, to buy or sell a vehicle, and most importantly: to
legally drive on any states roads, and avoid any tickets or penalties for not having bought at
least that required coverage.
o Typical car insurance policies have three levels of coverage, which you might see
quoted as something like as “15/30/25” coverage. The first figure means that
$15,000 will be the most your insurance company would ever pay out on your behalf
to any one person you may have injured in any single auto accident for any bodily
injury loss you may have caused that person (such as, for them to pay their medical
bills or to repay their lost wages because the accident forced them to miss work.
o The second figure means $30,000 is the most your insurer would ever have to pay
out in total for any/all bodily injury losses incurred by all of the people you may have
injured in that same single accident, regardless of the total number of people you
may actually have caused injuries to in the accident.
o Finally, the third figure means $25,000 is the most that your insurance company
would ever pay out for all property damage that you may have caused or be found
responsible for causing (such as to the other driver’s car, to a business owner if you
ran off the road and hit their sign or building, or to both the other driver and that
business owner if you hit that car).
o Should the financial damages – directly or indirectly – that you cause in an accident
exceed the amounts provided in your policy (such as 15/30/25 example above) then
all amounts over the coverage would be paid by you out of your own bank account.
What if you don’t have enough in your bank account to cover the damages? Your
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future earnings and wages could be garnished – taken by legal authorities and you
might have to declare bankruptcy.
o What if you choose to drive without any automobile insurance? Most states have a
“No Pay/No Play” law: if you do not have at least the required state minimum
coverage in place at the time of your accident, then if you yourself had any bodily
injury losses at all as the result of that accident, then you must cover all claims out of
pocket and you give up the right to any insurance claims, even if you were not
responsible for the accident. That is, if you do not have your own insurance and
someone else runs into you, then you do not get to benefit from their insurance
coverage. This is a potentially enormous penalty.
o What’s the moral here? While all states have minimum amounts of automobile
coverage that you are legally required to have, you may want to spend a little more
on your periodic payments in order to obtain even higher levels of coverage.
Insurance is all about risk management – paying a little bit today in order to avoid
paying a lot in the future. The costs of paying a little more today for higher levels of
coverage may very well be much, much less than the potential costs of having to
cover accident costs out of pocket for most drivers.
Ø Any insurance policy will specify what your “premium” or payment responsibilities are:
o You generally must always have paid for your insurance coverage before you incur a
covered loss. You may choose to pay the entire premium due when you first buy
your policy, or to make periodic premium payments during your period of coverage.
You typically must pay premiums semi-annually or annually, but you can negotiate
more flexibility on how you pay your premiums.
o In the event of an event that is covered by your insurance policy, you typically will
pay a “deductible” to share in any loss to your own property. You may negotiate
your deductible level with the insurance company. The higher your deductible, the
lower your premium payments.
o Choosing to buy a higher deductible results in lower premiums. That’s good news -
and you can use your deductibles to save even more. You should determine your
deductible level by comparing its’ cost, and the likelihood of an event occurring –
because you pay your deductible each time you make a claim.
As an entrepreneur, you can have your business own the car and be responsible for the vehicle’s
insurance. The insurance issues are the same, but you’ll get to reduce your tax liability by the amount
of the expense. We’ll cover this in detail in the following chapter.
It’s easy for us to focus on two items when we’re looking at the cost of insurance: the premium
payments and the (potential) deductible payments … because that’s money we have to pay out of
our own pockets. So, where do these numbers come from? How is the cost to you determined?
Few professionals are better with numbers, math and statistics than insurance companies. They have
decades of data, about millions and millions of customers and their behavior. These data supply
insurers with billions of pieces of information about our collective behavior. They use those data to
calculate how frequently claims will be filed, and how much an average claim will be. If an auto
insurance company has 1,000 customers, they do not know exactly which of those 1,000 customers
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will get into an accident this week, but they can estimate with reasonable accuracy how many of
those 1,000 customers will get into an accident this week and how much damage likely will be done.
Thus, insurance is a form of risk-sharing. The losses of the few are spread out and shared among the
many. If I get into an accident this year, and you do not, your premium payments essentially would
be used to help pay for the repairs made to my car (thank you). You paid your premiums, but you
did not need to receive any direct benefit this year - but you did have that valuable protection if you
had needed to use it. If you were to get into an accident next year or the year after, while I did not,
you will benefit from me paying my premium and sharing the cost of you getting your car repaired
(you’re welcome). So, where do the premium payments come from?
The billions of pieces of data showing our past behavior help insurance companies estimate the
following general equation, for each of us and for each insurance policy:
What does “Probability or Frequency of Loss” mean to you? It’s the likelihood you’re going to have
an accident and make a claim. An 18-year old driver is much more likely to have an accident than a
50-year old driver. Analyzing decades of data have helped insurance companies determine what the
likelihood of you having an accident is. This likelihood is based on many factors including, among
others: your years of driving experience, your driving record or history of accidents, your vehicle and
it’s safety features, and maybe even your credit history or grade point average. If you’re like most
people, you may believe you’re a much better-than-average driver; unfortunately, you can only
demonstrate that by actually keeping your driving record and claim history clean over time. The
insurance company will be the final judge; and the data will not lie.
What does “Expected Severity of Loss” mean to you? This is the potential cash payment that the
insurance company might have to make, and it’s pretty simple: insuring a $60,000 Cadillac Escalade
will have a higher Expected Severity of Loss than a $15,000 Toyota Corolla.
Let’s put some numbers to your hypothetical insurance policy.
Year 1 Year 2 Year 3 Year 4 Year 5
Auto Insurance
Premium
(1,200)$ (1,200)$ (1,200)$ (1,350)$ (1,350)$
Deductible -$ -$ -$ (500)$ -$
Coverage from
Claim
-$ -$ -$ 12,000$ -$
Net Insurance
Cash Flows
(1,200)$ (1,200)$ (1,200)$ 10,150$ (1,350)$
Early in
Year 4, you
total your
car by
driving into
a light pole
while
sending a
text to a
friend.
Probability or
Frequency of Loss
Expected Severity
of Loss
Minimum Cost
of Insurance
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This example obviously makes many assumptions, including:
1. Your annual premium is $1,200, or $100 per month, for the first 3 years. This may be
unrealistically low for you. Keep a clean record, get good grades, and you may get there.
2. You have a $500 deductible for your collision coverage. This means that if you collide with
anything – another vehicle, a tree or even a light pole – you will have to pay the first $500 of
any loss before the insurance company would pay anything toward fixing your car.
3. You agreed to a policy with $12,000 of collision coverage – the most the insurance company
would pay, after you pay your $500, to reimburse you (or your lender) for the lost
outstanding value of your totaled car, or toward getting you into another car.
4. After your accident, your policy premium increases by more than 10% per year. This is
common, especially for younger drivers, following a claim or negative event in your driving
history.
This example and these numbers are all made up, but they are somewhat realistic. They highlight the
key tradeoff we all make with all kinds of insurance: we pay a relatively small, affordable amount
regularly in exchange for potentially receiving a much larger payment in the event of loss we likely
could not otherwise bear to pay. Rational individuals are willing to pay a certain small loss (the
premium) to avoid having to pay an uncertain large loss (to replace your car or rebuild your house).
You likely would pay $1,200 per year to protect your $12,000 vehicle, and more if it was to protect
your $150,000 house.
One dynamic that you should always pay attention to – for automobile insurance and for all other
forms of insurance that you pay for – is the tradeoff between your premium and your deductible
(D). The lower you want your deductible to be, the more you will have to pay in annual premium.
Take a look at the following table – which premium-deductible combination would you prefer?
Some people believe there is no absolute ‘right’ answer to which of the above options would be best
for you, because it all depends on you, your unique financial and driving situation, and your own
personal preferences. Some people are scared because they would not have $500 readily available in
savings or an emergency fund that they could use in the event a loss claim, so instead they are willing
to pay a little bit more each month to “buy down” that scary deductible to a level they perceive
would be more readily achievable or reasonable. In fact, for most people, there is a ‘best’ option:
Option #1. It has the lowest total expected cost for you as a driver over the long-term. Yes, it may
be intimidating to think you’ll have to pay $500 for a claim, but the monthly savings you enjoy over
time will usually more than make up for it.
Option #1 Option #2 Option #3
Annual Auto Premium $1,000 $1,500 $2,000
Monthly Premium Payment $83.33 $125.00 $166.67
Deductible per Claim $500 $250 $100
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As with any tradeoff in finance or insurance, you get what you pay for, and nothing is free.
Moreover, “cheap” is always more expensive. You never know the true quality of your insurance
until you have to use it – but then it is too late to make any changes!
This same logic and process applies to most other types of Property & Casualty Insurance.
Ø Renter’s Insurance
Ø Homeowners’ Insurance
Ø Other Vehicles – ATV or golf cart
Ø Boat
Ø Flood
Ø Earthquake
Ø Your legs, your voice, your hair or
your smile.
That’s right, you can insure your legs, voice, hair, or smile. Rihanna, Taylor Swift, and Cristiano
Ronaldo have reportedly each insured their legs for millions of dollars. Bruce Springsteen insured his
voice. Beyoncé and Pittsburgh Steeler strong safety Troy Polamalu insured their hair. America
Ferrara and Julia Roberts have insured their smiles. Drew Brees and many NFL, NBA and other star
professional athletes insure their playing contracts. You can do the same. If it’s valuable to you, you
can insure it, for a price. The insurance industry is, and always has been, a fantastic place for creative
people to build exciting careers by helping others identify potential exposures to loss, and develop
solutions to help them recover should a major loss happen.
Renter’s Insurance
A Special Kind of Property Insurance
Renter’s Insurance can be very important and quite useful to both college students and business
owners – anyone who is renting property. Renter’s Insurance, as the name implies, is a special kind
of home insurance policy designed specifically for folks who do not own the actual home or other
structures that they are renting. The average cost of Renter’s Insurance can be as low as $20 a month
for a small apartment or up to several hundred dollars a month if you have a large office space or
workshop with lots of equipment. Why is it so low? Because you are only insuring your stuff, not the
actual home and other structures. The landlord is the one who is responsible for having insurance
on the building. If a major loss to the landlord’s dwelling or other structures does occur, the renter
would generally suffer a loss just of their personal property (i.e., their desks, computers, tables,
chairs, pinball machine or whatever else you may have in the space). Your landlord is not going to
pay to insure and protect your stuff, but it’s also not your responsibility to insure their stuff, either.
If you are a business owner and have homeowners’ insurance on your home, is the personal stuff
you have in your office (away from home) covered by that policy? Maybe. You will want to confirm
with your insurance agent what your actual policy covers. There will likely be limits on the dollar
amount of coverage provided to stuff that is not in your home (such as in a secondary residence or
an office) and there may be limits to what type of property is equipment (the laptop you use for
consulting may be covered, but the heavy equipment you use for landscaping probably is not).
Renter’s Insurance, like all other types of homeowners’ insurance, also provides you coverage for
certain “additional living expenses” to help you pay for alternative housing should you be
temporarily displaced from the place you were renting due to its damage by fire, hail, wind, or other
issue. Further, Renter’s Insurance policies typically provide $100,000 of comprehensive personal
liability protection should you be found responsible for certain “bodily injury” or “property damage”
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losses you unintentionally caused someone not residing with you while at your home. What’s the
moral here? Again, the short term costs are typically very minor compared to the long-term costs
you might be exposed to for anything that could happen to your stuff and your rental property..
Thought Exercise
Now let’s conclude this section with another simple thought-exercise. Think back to your auto
insurance. Check out the first few pages of the policy (the “declarations” pages). What you’re your
premiums? Why might your premiums be so high? Can you lower your premiums? Paying insurance
can feel very expensive and painful in the short-term because we are trying to cover so much and we
do not immediately see any benefits. But each time you feel this way, take a look at the examples
above, and you’ll be reminded of how much having insurance benefits you if you were to have a loss
event or claim, whether the event is your fault or not. No matter how good or careful a driver you
are, or think you are, everything can change in the blink of an eye.
What can you do to lower your automobile insurance premiums? How can you get this fixed
expense lower, without sacrificing essential coverage and flexibility that insurance provides? Write
down 5 activities that you can do yourself to lower your auto insurance premium.
1. __________________________________________________________
2. __________________________________________________________
3. __________________________________________________________
4. __________________________________________________________
5. __________________________________________________________
Health Insurance
Protecting Your Physical & Mental Well-Being
Few issues in America today are as controversial and politically divisive as talking about health
insurance. Most people believe that protecting their health is extremely important; where people
disagree is on who should pay for it. Should the government pay for health care, or should
individuals pay for their own health care? We will not settle that debate here.
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What we will do here is briefly discuss your health insurance needs, options, and questions. Maybe
your health care is covered by your or your spouse’s employer or maybe you pay for it through your
new entrepreneurial venture. For this conversation, that distinction is not important. What is
important is that you have health care coverage because (a) it’s the law, and (b) nothing is more
valuable than your health.
What is certain is that health insurance can be extremely beneficial to you:
Ø In 2018, the average American incurred over $5,300 in health care expenses.
Ø The average 19-34 year old incurred over $2,500 in annual health care expenses.
Ø Women aged 19-34 incurred more than twice the annual expenses of men aged 19-34,
$3,450 to $1,612.
Ø Patients with cancer, heart disease, diabetes, or stroke had average annual health care
expenses of almost $20,000.
Ø More than 25% of Americans aged 18-24 will make an emergency room visit in a year. More
than 7% will make two (2) emergency room visits in a year. The average emergency room
visit costs more than $1,300.
Ø 23% of millennials say they have been diagnosed with depression, anxiety, ADD/ADHD, or
alcohol or drug addiction.
Ø More than half of millennials – 54% – have been diagnosed with a chronic illness, including
arthritis, asthma, cancer, diabetes, heart disease, high blood pressure, anxiety, obesity, or
depression.
Ø More than half of millennials – 53% – take over-the-counter medicines regularly.
Ø 44% of millennials pay for some, or all, of their health care expenses using a credit card.
Can you afford to pay for a $1,300 emergency room visit out of your bank account?
Ø Can you afford to pay $2,500 in annual health care costs out of your bank account?
Ø Can you afford to pay for your medications, your dental visits, your glasses, and your therapy
needs out of your bank account or savings?
Ø The overwhelming majority of Americans live “paycheck-to-paycheck” with little or no
savings for emergencies, let alone retirement. Unexpected health care expenses are the
leading cause of personal bankruptcy in the US.
Health insurance exists to help you with both expected and unexpected healthcare needs. Much like
automobile insurance, health insurance covers you against significant health care expenses by sharing
costs. Who will pay for these costs is the big debate – but, regardless of how that debate is settled,
individuals, companies and governments will likely continue to share in paying health insurance
expenses. Companies certainly pass the cost of healthcare for their workers on to consumers
through higher prices. Individuals, of all ages, certainly will continue to need emergency and routine
healthcare. Sadly, healthcare costs will continue to rise, at annual growth rates significantly higher
than ordinary inflation, as they have each and every year since Truman was President (1944-52).
Health insurance also works similar to automobile insurance in the sense that you (or, your
employer, your spouse’s employer, your parents, or the government) pay monthly or annual
premiums for coverage from an insurance company, and you also pay out-of-pocket for your
medical or hospital visits.
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Here are some more details about what else you may need to know about health insurance:
Ø As with property and casualty insurance, most plans require you to pay a “premium.” This is
frequently paid by individuals directly, or indirectly through say your employer or a family
member’s employer. The premium is the payment required just to be eligible to receive
coverage for health care expenses. Health insurance premiums may also entail sharing of the
cost of your healthcare too, but between you and your employer. Some employers pay all of
their employees’ healthcare premiums (and some don’t pay for anything); most employers
only pay a portion (40-80%) of their employees’ premiums; but the employee must pay the
rest, and even may have to pay 100% of the cost to provide coverage for their spouse
and/or dependents.
Ø Under most plans, you will have a “deductible” representing the minimum amount you
yourself will have to pay yourself during the entire year (not per event, like with auto
insurance), out of your own pocket before your health insurance company contributes
anything. Typical health insurance deductibles start around $500 per person and can exceed
$10,000 with some plans.
Ø As with the automobile insurance examples previously, you can lower your annual deductible
by agreeing to pay a higher premium; or, you can get a lower premium by being willing to
pay a higher deductible. As an employer, you can manage this to attract better employees.
Ø Deductibles do not carry over from year-to-year. If you have a $1,000 deductible this year,
but you only spend $900, your contribution resets to $0 when the next year begins.
Ø Under most plans, you may have to pay a modest office charge or access fee for each
medical visit or treatment, plus a “co-pay” amount above your deductible, thereby sharing
even more of your health care cost with your insurance company. Co-pays provide you with
an incentive to try to live a healthier lifestyle and avoid using healthcare costs (but accidents
happen to anyone). These shared costs above your deductible are sometimes called
“coinsurance” expenses.
o Everything you pay, besides the premium, is considered an out-of-pocket expense.
o Your plan probably has a “annual out-of-pocket maximum,” which is the absolute
maximum you would have to pay out-of-pocket each year for your healthcare, after
your deductible is met and after all coinsurance is paid.
Ø Co-pay and coinsurance payments do not count toward your annual deductible, but your
employer may possibly offer as an employee benefit a Flexible Spending Account (FSA), or
something similar, where you could have up to $10,000 of your pre-tax wages withheld but
dedicated for use to pay your deductible and coinsurance healthcare expenses. FSAs work on
a “use-it-or-lose-it” basis, so you need to carefully estimate what you have withheld so as not
to withhold too much and give free money to your insurance company.
o The FSA is similar to but different from the HSA, the Health Savings Account. The
main difference is that money put into an HSA does carryover from year-to-year; but
only plans with high deductibles are eligible to offer HSAs.
Ø Health care plans are even more diverse than automobile and other property and casualty
plans. You may have different premiums, annual out-of-pocket maximums, co-pays and
other terms for emergency room visits, routine health care, prescriptions, therapy, vision
care, dental, and other services. Healthcare premiums are frequently bundled, so you or your
employer will make one monthly or annual payment, but you will likely make different
payments for different types of visits, and for different persons in the case of families. It can
get very complicated, very quickly.
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We could go on discussing tips, structures and tradeoffs forever. Health care is controversial, very
complicated and highly personal, probably more than any other type of insurance. Talk with your
family members, talk to friends, talk to your employees and talk to your insurance agent to better
understand what your options are, and what programs may be available to help you.
Be proactive. Take control of your situation. Eat right, exercise, hydrate and get proper sleep – you
are responsible for your own health. And stay vigilant – your needs and your plan details will change
over time, likely year-to-year, so be sure to monitor your coverage as your situation changes.
Disability & Life Insurance
Protecting Your Income & Your Loved-Ones’ Futures
The final two categories of insurance we will cover here relate to unpleasant situations that,
hopefully, will not directly apply to you for a very, very long time. But you still need to plan ahead,
now. Both are critical for entrepreneurs to consider. Things can change in the blink of an eye.
1. Disability Insurance - Protection against your loss of income due to your injury or illness
2. Life Insurance - Protection for your loved ones or others if you die and are no longer there
to provide your economic resources to them as before
Earlier in this chapter we asked you to make a list of your most valuable assets. One asset you
probably left off that list is certainly your most valuable asset of all: You. Your human capital. Your
brain. Your knowledge. Your skills. Your ability to be innovative, to develop amazing projects, your
ability to create tons of value for yourself, your employer, and even society as a whole. This human
capital is generally reflected in your income, the cash flow that helps you to achieve all your goals
and dreams. Your single greatest asset in life is your ability to support yourself.
Imagine that your new entrepreneurial venture has been growing for 3 or 4 years. It’s going really
well. You’re making more money than you thought you’d be making at that point. Now imagine that
you had to take 6-months off from work – perhaps due to your own illness or injury, perhaps
because of pregnancy, or perhaps because of a family situation.
What do you do?
How do you pay your bills?
Before you dismiss this possibility and nonchalantly say “oh, I’ll figure it out,” consider this:
Ø Over 25% of Americans will face an illness or event that causes them to miss more than 3
months of work at some point in their career, and there is a 33% chance that this may
happen to someone before their 35
th
birthday.
Ø Over 50% of Americans over 35-years old can expect to miss more than 3 months of work
at some point later in their career.
Ø Over 60% of all individual bankruptcies result from individuals losing their income due to
illness or a disabling event.
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Ø Do not be misled by the terms “illness,” “injury” or “disability.” This does not only apply to
individuals in dangerous jobs. Stress, depression and carpal tunnel syndrome are common
illnesses office workers may experience as a result of their job.
o Over 25% of time missed due to disability is associated with pregnancy.
o Beyond pregnancy, over 90% of time missed from work due to disability is
associated with an illness, and not an injury.
Disability Income Insurance
Most of us cannot afford to miss significant time off away from work and without income, as was
made painfully clear to just about everyone during the 2020 economic shutdown associated with the
COVID-19 pandemic that saw unemployment rise to over 25% in some areas of the country.
However, even in normal times, the statistics above indicate many of us will be forced out of work
not because of unemployment or layoffs, but as a direct result of an illness, injury, or other common
adverse health experience.
Some of you may be fortunate to have generous employee benefits sponsored by an employer, either
in the form of sick leave, paid-time off, or maybe even short- or long-term disability insurance. If
not, then you may want to consider purchasing your own personal short-term disability or long-term
disability insurance coverage (STDI and LTDI).
How does disability insurance work? You pay an annual or periodic premium, and in exchange, your
insurance company will make periodic cash payments to you to replace your lost income if you lose
your ability to be able to work and support yourself in your standard of living. In general, if you
don’t work, you don’t get paid – period. This is especially true for hourly workers, but it eventually
applies to salaried workers as well. An alternative to this is private disability insurance, obtained
either through your employer or on your own from your own pocket.
Disability insurance will never provide you with 100% of your pre-disability income. STDI policies
typically provide 75-80%, and LTDI typically provides only about 40-50%, of your pre-disability
income. Yes, you usually must pay income taxes on the amount of disability income you get, but
getting some money is still better than getting nothing.
There are many options you can buy to suit your own unique needs. STDI policies typically provide
benefits for only a specified period of time, usually 30 days to 6-9 months. Your benefits begin only
after a specified waiting period. LTDI policies specify much longer potential payout durations (1, 5,
10 or 20 years, or even for the rest of your life).
That’s good news; but the bad news is the cost of disability policies, especially LTDI policies, can be
very high – which is a reflection of their importance and utility to people. The reason should be
obvious: the longer you may want to receive a disability benefit payout, the higher the cost. As with
any insurance policy, the more risk you bear yourself, the less risk you are asking an insurance
company to take on for you, so your premium will be lower. But, the biggest single cost factor in
disability insurance is how bad your disability from work is – in other words, what will trigger the
policy to pay out to you.
As we have alluded to several times, there are always tradeoffs in finance and insurance. We know
the price you pay for insurance is based on the probability of you making a claim and the potential
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size or payout on that claim – we first learned this talking about automobile insurance. This is true
of all kinds of insurance plans, including disability plans to protect your lost income. This is also true
for life insurance.
Life Insurance
If you are married, have children or are the main income provider for anyone else, this section is for
you. Pay attention. You probably want to purchase a life insurance policy. With life insurance, you
may pay a relatively small periodic payment – the younger you are when you put a life insurance
policy in place, the lower your premiums generally are, for the rest of your life. In exchange for
premium, you designate one, or more people, to be your “beneficiary” to receive a potentially large
and significant payout when a certain type of event occurs. But with life insurance there is a very
important catch: the “certain type of event” when benefits are triggered to pay out is your death.
You will not get any payout when you die; rather, it will be your loved ones, family members, your
favorite charity, whomever you named – that will get the payout on your behalf after you die. Life
insurance isn’t really for you, it’s for your family.
If you do not plan on ever getting married, or having children, then you may not think you need to
purchase life insurance – and that may be true. But you can buy certain kinds of life insurance that
will give you yourself greater financial flexibility as you grow older. For those thinking about
marriage or kids, if you want to be sure your loved-ones are financially taken care of if you were to
die, then you should consider purchasing life insurance.
As an entrepreneur, you may be the most important person in your business (you may be the only
person in your business). The business corollary to life insurance is key-person insurance; the
difference is that the business pays the premiums and the business receives the payout if you – or
any other designated key-person – dies. Many investors will require your business to purchase key-
person insurance; it is common for entrepreneurs to have both personal life insurance policy and
key-person insurance paid for by the business. As always, talk to your insurance agent for details.
Life insurance policies are designed to satisfy two basic economic needs: the need to protect your
economic earnings against loss and the need to build a “savings”-type component inside the policy
for future policyholder flexibility. There are two basic types of life insurance plans to consider
(among many other variations of plans), and they satisfy your economic needs differently.
Ø “Term life” insurance policies pay your beneficiaries if your death occurs within a certain
period of time, such as within the next 5, 10, 20, or 25 years. Parents, for example, often
choose term life insurance if they want to provide financial protection for their children to
be able to go to college or into early adulthood, but not necessarily afterwards (because those
children would then be finished with college, and/or old enough to be able to provide for
themselves at that point). Term insurance policies are a fundamental building block that
provides you with protection to replace your economic earnings stream only, and they do
not build any savings or cash value. Term insurance generally is the lowest cost option for
life insurance available at any age. Virtually all life insurance policy premiums are based on
your risk of death when you buy the policy (which obviously increases each and every year
you grow older). Term insurance offers the biggest bang for your buck if you need coverage
for a limited period of time (or, you know, a term), but if can be very expensive for older
people to buy.
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Ø “Whole life” insurance provides a benefit payout regardless of when your death occurs
(that is, for your ‘whole’ life). Whole life costs more than term insurance at any age because
you are buying more than just pure protection, you also are buying a cash value feature
(savings within the policy). Your whole life premiums are fixed by your insurance company
for the life of your policy, and the interest rate you may either earn or pay on your cash value
within the policy also is fixed. Universallife insurance is a special type of coverage related
to whole life insurance that gives policyowners much greater flexibility by giving them the
direct control to vary their premium payments, as well alter the policy benefit value, so as to
better meet their own individual situation over the entire life of the policy. Suze Orman
believes we should only ever buy term insurance – because paying for insurance for your
entire life provides diminishing benefits to your loved ones after you die.
We have all seen movies and read mystery novels, that highlight potentially perverse incentives that
may be associated with life insurance policies. Most are pure Hollywood, but sadly, a few are true
and based on real possibilities. The mere existence of even a modest life insurance payout may
motivate certain types of people to do horrible things – but after all, people have been killed in a
robbery that netted the perpetrator only pocket change, a watch or a pair of shoes. So, don’t worry
about that negative stuff. If you do ever get worried your loved-ones may take a look at your life
insurance and begin to think you’re worth more dead than alive, you really have two choices: make
sure they never know about your life insurance in the first place or challenge yourself to always try to
live your life to be the kind of person worth more to your loved ones alive.
Many employee benefits programs include some amount of life insurance paid for you, but this is
typically a relatively small multiple of your salary (say, 50% or maybe 200%), and it is likely to be
simple group term insurance, as explained above (that is, your employer will only provide you a
benefit while you’re working for them). Employer-provided life insurance is generally limited to a
payout of only $50,000 with no adverse income tax consequences to the employee (if they provide
more coverage, then the employee usually has to contribute to paying for it).
Many people need larger benefits for their family members. As with everything else in the world of
insurance, life insurance is least expensive when you’re least likely to make a claim – such as when
you’re young and healthy. Depending on the kind of insurance you purchased now, your premiums
for that policy likely will remain low for the rest of your life, and you likely will be able to build up a
relatively large life insurance nest egg over your (hopefully) very long life.
The brief overview of insurance we have provided in this book was not intended to be exhaustive.
There are many other types of insurance we haven’t talked about that may impact you or that you
may want or need to consider – such as workers’ compensation, unemployment insurance, identity
theft insurance, or flood insurance to name just a few.
Do your research and think about how you can protect your most valuable assets – even if your
most valuable asset is you: your ability to work and support yourself, your family, your legs, your
voice, your hair, or your smile. Establish a relationship with your insurance agent. Learn your
options. Own your financial future by taking control of your finances today. Your future self will
thank you for it.
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Before we do one more insurance-based exercise, take a few minutes to reflect on what you’ve
learned about insurance over the previous pages.
Ø What are the tradeoffs you should consider in choosing an insurance plan?
Ø What have you learned that you can share with your parents, your siblings, and your friends?
Ø What types of insurance are “needs” for you? Which types are “wants?”
Ø What can you do within the next 3 months to better protect your most valuable resources?
Insurance Summary
One Final Activity
If you’re feeling overwhelmed at this point, that’s normal. Insurance is extraordinarily complex – in
part because insurance companies want to provide many different options for individuals, in part
because insurance is very personal for everyone. The good news is that everything will make more
sense as you begin taking care of your own insurance needs, and start planning to achieve your long
term goals and dreams.
One thing that should be clear to you is that your insurance needs and insurance options will change
over your lifetime. The insurance you need when you’re 20-years old is very different than the
insurance you will want when you’re 60-years old.
So, let’s finish this chapter by thinking through those different insurance needs over your lifetime.
Please go through the following five life stages, and identify all of the types of insurance you likely
will want and need during that stage; yes, you can list types of insurance coverage more than once.
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What types of insurance coverage will you need during your college or start-up years?
________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________
What types of insurance coverage will you need during your early years of working, when
you’re single with no children?
________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________
What types of insurance coverage will you need during your mid-years of working, if
you’re married with 2 or 3 children?
________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________
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What types of insurance coverage will you need during your later years of working, when
your children are in college and you begin looking towards retirement?
________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________
What types of insurance coverage will you need during your retirement years?
________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________
INCOME TAXES
WE ALL HAVE TO PAY THEM – BUT WE DON’T HAVE TO OVERPAY THEM
You’ve all heard the warning from Benjamin Franklin: Nothing in life is certain except death and
taxes. We talked a little bit about death in the preceding section, so let’s talk about taxes now.
Here’s the point that we frequently forget about paying taxes: we only pay income taxes on income
that we’ve earned. Tax planning – much like insurance planning – can become incredibly complex
very quickly, so you are well-advised to consult with a professional as your personal and financial
situations become more complicated.
Taxes are critical to the functioning of society. They pay for police, firefighters, the military,
education and many other investments that have helped developed nations become incredibly
prosperous. Of course, it’s easy to complain about taxes: perhaps we don’t like how efficiently
governments use our precious tax money or perhaps we don’t like the specific policies governments
are pursuing with our tax money. You can fight those issues in your own time – but until changes
are made, you have to pay taxes on almost all income you receive.
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Here are a few pieces of tax planning knowledge that may help put tax planning into perspective.
Ø The primary tax codes that you need to follow are set by the federal government – through
the Internal Revenue Service (IRS) – and your state government. The different jurisdictions
will have different policies and rates, but generally have similar processes. Be sure to follow
the rules of both.
Ø If your income is below a certain limit, called the “standard deduction,” you will not owe
any federal income taxes – but you still have to file a tax return to tell the IRS this. In 2021,
the standard deduction is $12,550 for single taxpayers, $18,800 for heads of households
(single, with at least one dependent) and $25,100 for married couples.
Ø Tax avoidance” is the act of paying as little tax as possible, given the laws that exist.
Avoiding taxes is a good thing. “Tax evasion” is the act of not paying taxes that you owe; it
is illegal and it will get you into big trouble. Pay all of the taxes that you owe…but not a
penny more.
Ø The IRS offers a lot of “credits” and “deductions” for many different situations (including
for students investing in education. A credit is a direct reduction of the amount of taxes you
owe; a deduction is a reduction of your taxable income, or the basis on which your taxes are
calculated. Check with a tax professional or with tax preparation software to make sure you
are getting all of the credits and deductions you are entitled to.
o The American Opportunity Credit can pay for the first $2,000, plus 25% of the
next $2,000, you spend on tuition, books and other essentials if you are eligible.
o The Lifetime Learning Credit can pay for 20% of your tuition and certain related
expenses, up to a $2,000 credit, if you are eligible.
o Most students are eligible for a $4,000 deduction (or reduction in taxable income).
o All students should be aware of credits and deduction and should try to time their
school expenses to make sure you are getting every available benefit. For example, it
may be better to pay $10,000 in each of two years rather than $20,000 in one year.
Ø There are also many unique credits and deductions available to entrepreneurs. We discuss
some of these in the next chapter, along with more on the point above about clustering
income and expenses to maximize your tax benefit (or to minimize your tax liability).
Ø Some scholarships and grants are treated as taxable income, some are not. Contact your
financial aid or scholarship office to make sure you understand which applies to you.
Ø You have probably heard of “tax brackets” and “marginal tax rates.” The U.S. uses a
progressive tax structure, where each additional dollar of income that you have may be taxed
at a higher rate. In 2020, there are seven tax brackets that range from 10% on the lowest
income and up to 37% on the highest income.
o If your income is $20,000, most of this will be taxed at 10% and some will be taxed
at 12%. Considering the standard deduction, your average federal tax rate may be less
than 10%.
o If your income is $1,000,000, not all of this will be taxed at 37%. Some of your
income will be taxed at 10%, some will be taxed at 12% and so on…up until you’re
in the 37% bracket where most of your income will be taxed. Overall, your average
federal tax rate will end up considerably below 37%.
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Ø Your personal situation may entitle you to a number of tax deductions and/or credits. The
tax code is extremely complex, in part, because all of our situations are unique. Below are
some of the more common issues that may apply to you; as always, check with a professional
advisor or preparation software to ensure you’re engaging in tax avoidance not tax evasion:
o Child tax credits for parents.
o Child day care and similar costs credits for dependents.
o Earned income tax credits for lower incomes.
o Charitable contribution deductions for gifts to non-profits.
o Deductions for un-reimbursed medical expenses, property taxes and interest paid on
a mortgage (but not if you’re renting – the landlord gets the deduction).
o Saver’s credit for contributions to an Individual Retirement Account (IRA – see
below) for lower income levels.
The U.S. federal tax code book is several thousand pages long. We obviously cannot do it justice in
1 or 2 pages here. We will conclude with just a few pieces of advice:
1. Keep all records and documents related to every dollar you earned, including keeping
records of tips and other cash earnings you received.
2. Keep all records and documents related to every dollar you spent with respect to school,
home, work and children – and possibly other tax related issues. The more you learn
about the tax code, the more you will know what to keep and how that helps you.
3. Within 2 or 3 years of filing your own taxes and learning what rules and opportunities
apply to you, you will be able to figure out how to be strategic about income and
expenses in order to maximize your income and minimize the taxes you pay. That’s legal
and that’s very good.
4. Stay in regular contact with the payroll people in your company’s human resources
office. They will not give you tax planning advice, but they can help you better
understand issues that they deal with all of the time. They will be your friends.
5. When in doubt, talk to a professional. The potential costs of not following the rules
could be enormous, including fines and/or time in prison. It’s not worth it. Get help.
RETIREMENT
WHAT ARE YOUR OPTIONS?
You’re young. You’re worried about getting your business going. You’re worried about your family.
You’re worried about what you’re going to do this weekend.
Old people like me talking about retirement is a sure-fire way to get one of these: 🙄 (and probably
one of these, too 🤓). That’s okay – we understand. You have about a thousand other priorities and
experiences to enjoy before even thinking about retirement….or, at least you think you do.
If you wait until you’re 60 to begin thinking about financing your retirement, it will be too late; if
you start thinking about financing your retirement when you’re 20, you might be able to retire when
you are 50. You decide. And don’t forget that you may have family members that you’re deciding
for, too – be sure to include them in your short-term and long-term retirement thoughts.
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Now here’s a simple quiz help you think about this decision.
Which of the follow options do you prefer?
(A) Begin saving for retirement when you’re 22 years old, saving $4,519 a year for 40
years and retiring at 62 with $2,000,000.
(B) Begin saving for retirement when you’re 32 years old, saving $12,158 a year
for 30 years and retiring at age 62 with $2,000,000.
(C) Begin saving for retirement when you’re 42 years old, saving $34,919 a year for 20
years and retiring at age 62 with $2,000,000.
(D) Begin saving for retirement when you’re 52 years old, saving $125,491 a year
for 10 years and retiring at age 62 with $2,000,000.
(E) Working forever.
Personally, I prefer (A) or maybe even (B). I absolutely hate (D) and (E).
Of course, for many of us, saving $4,519 per year at age 22 might not be possible – as you’re dealing
with starting a business, some student loan debt and other obligations. The point of this is not to get
you to commit to saving excessively in your 20s just to pay for your 60s. The point of this is to
emphasize one simple thing: the earlier you start saving, the better off you’ll be. So please think
about it – try to find a way to save as much money as you can, as early as you can. Interest on
interest (or compound interest) is your friend here; the longer you save, the more it helps you and
the bigger your portfolio grows. Win-win-win!
Or, maybe you don’t need to save $2,000,000 – depending on your needs and lifestyle, that may be
too much. Perhaps rather than focus on a single dollar amount, maybe you want to focus on a single
age – maybe an age when your children will be in college or on their own, an age when you’re ready
to be done with work and an age when you might have the financial resources to retire. Let’s say this
age if 55 years old. How much will you have saved at 55 with the above assumptions?
Assuming the same savings amounts about, here’s what you’ll have when you turn 55:
(A) Saving $4,519 beginning at 22 years old, you should have $1,004,355 at age 55.
(B) Saving $12,158 beginning at 32 years old, you should have $967,084 at age 55.
(C) Saving $34,919 beginning at 42 years old, you should have $856,309 at age 55.
(D) Saving $125,491 beginning at 52 years old, you should have $415,375 at age 55.
(E) If you never start saving for retirement, you will never have $1,000,000 for your
retirement – but, if you keep working forever, perhaps you won’t need it.
However you slice it, saving earlier creates the most options and the most wealth for you. If you can,
do it – save early. If you cannot save as much as you want early in your career, still save something –
and then try to make up for the savings you missed when you are able.
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Imagine you have the following savings strategy:
Age 22-27 Save $2,500 per year
Age 27-32 Save $5,000 per year
Age 32-40 Save $7,500 per year
Age 40-62 Save $10,000 per year
What do you think of this strategy? How does this compare to the strategies above?
First, you probably think this savings approach is much more realistic, as it gives you 5-10 years
before you are socking away large amounts of your precious income. And then as your salary grows
(presumably), you’ll be able to save a little bit more. Second, it’s way better financially – you’ll have
almost $2,400,000 when you retire at 62. You would have almost $2,000,000 when you turn 60, so
you could work two years less and have the same retirement fund with just a little bit more strategic
retirement savings planning.
You can change the numbers and do all sorts of different scenarios to see what your progress is to
different goals. Maybe you’ll earn an annual bonus and think about getting a new boat – before you
buy that boat, do the math or talk to a financial advisor to see how much that boat will take away
from your future retirement. Again, the moral to all of this is simple: begin saving as much as
possible for your retirement as soon as you possibly can. Your future self will thank you.
So, how does your present self do this? How do you save for retirement?
The bad news is that your company is unlikely to give you a pension that guarantees you a salary
after you retire – especially as an entrepreneur. Pension plans were standard and popular until the
1970s, but few companies provide them now. Why not? Because being obligated to pay you a salary
after you leave the company commits the company to paying you cash for an indefinite period of
time…when you’re no longer doing anything for the company. A pension is called a “defined
benefit” plan, where you and the company know exactly what you will get paid each month in
retirement, even if neither knows how long this payment stream will last (it will generally last until
you die). Because of the obligation and uncertainty, most companies have stopped offering defined
benefit plans; governments, universities and union-heavy businesses are the most common places
you’ll still find such pension plans today.
That’s the bad news – you should not expect to have your company pay you in retirement.
The good news is that there are still lots of options for how you can fund your retirement. If you’re
fortunate, your employer may offer you a “defined contribution” plan; this is also called a 401(k)
retirement plan (or sometimes a 403(b)). This plan is similar to the savings strategy we outlined on
the previous page: you determine what you’re going to save and it’s invested in (typically) your
choice of different investments, and then you wait. There are also two other unique and good
aspects of these.
First, because they feel guilty about eliminating standard pensions plans and because they want you
to accept their job offer, many companies will offer a “company match” to whatever you choose to
contribute to your savings. What does this mean? Let’s say you decide to put 10% of your salary
from each paycheck into your 401(k) account; your company may choose to match a portion of this.
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Many companies will “match 50% of employee contributions up to $5,000” or something like that.
This is wonderful – this match is not quite “free money” (because you have to work for it), but it is
like a bonus. It has the effect of increasing your gross compensation by the amount of the employer
match.
Let’s look at this on an annual basis:
(1) Your Salary $40,000
(2) Your 401(k) Contribution $4,000 10%
(3) Your Company Match $2,000 50% up to $5,000
(4) Your Net Salary $36,000 (1) - (2)
(5) Your Net 401(k) Savings $6,000 (2) + (3)
Your Gross Compensation $42,000 (4) + (5)
(1) Your Salary $65,000
(2) Your 401(k) Contribution $6,500 10%
(3) Your Company Match $3,250 50% up to $5,000
(4) Your Net Salary $58,500 (1) - (2)
(5) Your Net 401(k) Savings $9,750 (2) + (3)
Your Gross Compensation $68,250 (4) + (5)
(1) Your Salary $150,000
(2) Your 401(k) Contribution $15,000 10%
(3) Your Company Match $5,000 50% up to $5,000
(4) Your Net Salary $135,000 (1) - (2)
(5) Your Net 401(k) Savings $20,000 (2) + (3)
Your Gross Compensation $155,000 (4) + (5)
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Please note that we are being a little sloppy with the terms “Net Salary” and “Gross Compensation.”
Any accountants reading this will be annoyed that we’re using the wrong terms here – and that’s
because we have not included income taxes in the above examples. We typically refer to a “Net
Salary” as your salary less taxes and all other deductions, whereas the above is only adjusted for your
401(k) contribution. But this sloppiness is good enough for our purposes here.
Also note that this is optional – your employer cannot require you to contribute to your 401(k) plan
while you’re employed with them. But then, of course, you will not receive the 50% match (because
the match only matches what you contribute). You can opt-in or opt-out at any time. You can
increase your contribution or you can decrease your contribution. You can change what you invest
in periodically. So, that’s the first good thing about defined contribution, 401(k) or 403(b) plans –
your company might match your contributions with contributions of its own, effectively giving you
a retirement savings bonus.
The second good thing about 401(k) and 403(b) plans is that they are tax-deferred plans. What does
that mean? It means you don’t pay income tax on the income that you have moved into the
retirement plan. You will only pay income tax on them when you are retired and you begin
withdrawing the money from the retirement plan.
Consider the third example above where your salary is $150,000 (yes, it might seem like a dream
today, but continuing to dream about that salary is the first step to making it a reality).
Ø Your annual salary is $150,000.
Ø You move 10% of this, or $15,000 into your 401(k) retirement account.
Ø You pay income taxes on $135,000, row (4) or Your Net Salary Above.
Ø You do not pay income taxes on the $15,000 that you contributed to your retirement
account, nor do you pay income taxes on the $5,000 company match – at least, not yet.
Ø The $20,000 that is contributed to your retirement account today is invested and grows – tax
free – until you are in retirement and you begin withdrawing money from the account.
As with many of the discussions in this book, we have neglected to include the fine print; everything
we have said is reasonable and accurate, but there are some details that we have left out in order to
keep this conversation general and simple (like, at what age “retirement” happens and what
“mandatory minimum withdrawals” are and what penalties you might have to pay for taking money
out of a 401(k) plan). Don’t worry – this shouldn’t affect your thinking today and you’ll easily be
able to figure out the details or consult a financial advisor later when you need to.
So, what do you do if you are self-employed or if you work for a company that doesn’t offer a
company sponsored defined-benefit plan (or even offers one but doesn’t offer a match)? What do
you do? Can you still plan for retirement?
Yes, you can. As you may know, the terms 401(k) and 403(b) come from the U.S. government’s tax
code. The U.S. government, through the tax code, wants to encourage individuals, families and
corporations to financially prepare for retirement….so that it takes less pressure of the government
and Social Security to support people in retirement. The tax code is the law that allows us to avoid
paying taxes on our 401(k) contributions until we’re retired and withdrawing money – that’s good.
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The government and the tax code have established a number of other programs designed to
incentivize individual retirement planning. We’ll only discuss two here because they are the most
common plans used by individuals, and especially for individuals who are self-employed, who work
at small businesses or who have non-corporate jobs.
The IRA, or Individual Retirement Account, is the most common way people without company-
sponsored retirement benefits can obtain tax benefits for saving for retirement. And, the Roth IRA
is very similar, with one significant difference. We’ll briefly compare and contrast these two types of
programs here:
Which should you choose? As always, it depends. But, unlike many other situations in this book,
there may actually be a best option for you. If you’re a high income earner, you may not be eligible
for a Roth IRA. And, we can make all sorts of guesses about your future income and future tax
brackets going 30 and 40 years into the future – your guesses about those numbers would be just as
good as mine. We could also make reasonable and realistic assumptions showing that the two plans
are identical and neither one is necessarily better nor worse for you.
Here’s on mental trick that may help you decide. If you choose a Roth IRA, your Taxable Income
this year will be higher and you’ll owe more in taxes. If you choose a Roth IRA, you will be less
likely to get a tax refund from the IRS next spring. But, over the life of the fund, you should
probably be paying about the same total amount in taxes – the big difference is whether you would
rather pay higher taxes now or higher taxes in the future?
Traditional IRA Roth IRA
Key Selling Point
Allows you to make
pre-tax
contributions to your retirement account
(similar to the 401(k)).
Allows you to make
after-tax
contributions to your retirement account.
Your Contributions Grow:
Tax deferred. You will pay income tax
on the contributions when you
withdraw.
Tax free. You already paid income tax
on the contributions.
Current Year Tax Benefits:
Yes, your Taxable Income is reduced by
the amount of your contribution.
No, your Taxable Income is not
reduced by the amount of your
contribution.
Maximum Contritbution:
(as of 2019)
$6,000 (or $7,000 if you're over 50
years old)
$6,000 (or $7,000 if you're over 50
years old)
Contribution Eligibility:
No restrictions - you're all eligible.
Cannot have Gross Income over
$139,000 for a single tax filer or over
$206,000 for married filers (2020 limits).
Most Appropriate For:
Individuals who expect to be in the
same or a lower tax bracket in
retirement.
Individuals who expect to be in a higher
tax bracket in retirement.
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Imagine you get a $1,000 tax refund next spring. What would you do with that $1,000 check? If your
instinct is to save, re-invest or contribute that $1,000 to retirement, then the Traditional IRA is the
best choice for you; you have the financial discipline to focus on the long-term. If your instinct is to
take that $1,000 and buy a new TV, take a trip or otherwise treat it like free money, then the Roth
IRA is the best choice for you; you may not currently have the financial discipline to focus on the
long-term right now (and you’re less likely to waste any tax refund you get when you’re in your 60s).
Even better: Do everything. Take advantage of the 401(k) or 403(b) that your company offers.
Invest in a Traditional IRA. And invest in a Roth IRA. Yes, you can do all 3 (subject to income
limits and all sorts of fine-print). You’ll be more disciplined, you’ll save more, and you won’t have to
second-guess whether you’ve chosen the right plan for you.
Whatever you do: Begin saving for retirement as soon as you can. The sooner you save, the more
options you’ll have and the more opportunities you’ll create for yourself. If you can’t save in your
20s, start in your 30s. Don’t wait until you’re in your 40s or 50s. Your retirement years will be here
sooner than you think. Don’t wait. Your future self will thank you.
THE LOTTERY
TEMPTING, BUT DANGEROUS
We present this brief discussion of the lottery to emphasize that it should not be a part of your
financial plan. If you want to gamble on it, go ahead; but nobody should ever expect any lottery
winnings to provide for their financial future. We could say the same thing about gambling, sports
betting, and other forms of entertainment: it’s entertainment, not investing. The house always wins.
In Louisiana, the Constitution mandates that 35% of the value of each Lottery ticket you purchase
goes towards funding K-12 public education in the state. This is the second highest percentage of
revenue among all U.S. states. From its inception in 1991, the Lottery has contributed $3.7 billion to
public education.
That’s great – for public education. But, that may not be super for the people who play the Lottery
and who have given the state that $3.7 billion.
In addition to the 35% that is automatically funneled to public education, just over 11% of each
ticket is used for commissions and bonuses to retailers who sell Lottery tickets (5.6%) and for the
overhead and operations of the Lottery (5.7%). That leaves 53.7% to be paid out to winners.
Imagine that you and 9 friends each buy $10 worth of Lottery tickets – and imagine that the 10 of
you are the only ones playing.
+ $100.00 Total Lottery Revenue
35.00 Public Education
5.60 Lottery Retailers
5.70 Lottery Operations
+ $53.70 Cash Money for Lottery Winners
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You invested $10.00 and now you have a 10% chance of winning $53.70. Your “expected” winnings
are$5.37 (= $53.70 x 10%). This is why many view the Lottery as a tax on the poor. Many people
who have low-income and very precious discretionary income choose to put that precious income
into the lottery, hoping for the win. But when your expected winnings are 53.7% of what you spent,
it might be a gamble that many people cannot afford to take.
Yes, there is the chance that you will invest $10 and receive $53.70 – it’s precisely that “chance” that
make the Lottery so intriguing. Anything is possible – including you winning.
Let’s revisit a couple of the coin-flip risk-aversion questions we considered in the previous chapter.
Now, instead of a coin-flip, option (A) is a sure thing and option (B) will be determined by some
random draw where you have a 10% probability of winning.
Question #1
Which of the following options do you prefer:
(A) A 100% guarantee of winning $10.
(B) A 90% chance of winning $0
+ a 10% chance of winning $53.70
Which do you choose: (A) or (B)?
Most people will choose (A) because it’s a sure thing; the possible gains in (B) are not large enough
to tempt us and the high probability of getting nothing scares us.
But then consider when it’s not just you and 9 friends, but thousands and thousands of people
investing a relatively small amount of money to create a Lottery pool in the thousands or millions of
dollars, it gets even more intriguing. Your chance of winning gets smaller as the pool gets larger, so
your “expected” winnings get smaller, too.
Question #2
Which of the following options do you prefer:
(A) A 100% guarantee of winning $10.
(B) A 99.9999% chance of winning $0
+ a 0.0001% chance of winning $5,370,000
Which do you choose: (A) or (B)?
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This is why people play the Lottery – for the possibility of that $5,370,000. And, when the possible
winnings are so disproportionately large relative to the investment, in our silly minds there is very
little difference between having $10 and having $0. Our silly minds do not think about the probable
winnings but they think about the possible winnings. Yes, that’s irrational. Yes, that’s poor financial
planning. If you do this often enough, you will go broke.
Is the Lottery a bad investment? Yes, it’s a terrible ‘investment.’ Your expected returns are negative
– you should expect to lose money playing it. And it is not part of a financial plan. But… Should
you play the Lottery? As always, only you can decide that. But you have been warned.
Having said all that, let’s imagine that you do win a multi-million dollar Lottery pool. You will have
to decide: Do you take the lump-sum payment or do you take the 30 annual payments?
A recent example might help. The Mega Millions was advertising a $500,000,000 Lottery pool. If
there were one single winner, they would have been faced with the following decision:
(A) Take $19,250,000 per year for 26 years. This is where the advertised $500,000,000
pool comes from: $19,250,000 x 26 = $500,500,000.
(B) Take a one-time, lump-sum payment of $359,400,000.
Which do you do? With (A), the value of the cash payments you receive is larger. But with (B), you
get more money sooner and you can invest it or enjoy it sooner. If you’ve been paying attention
through this book, you know there is a ‘right’ finance answer.
And here it is. The difference comes down to interest rates. It turns out that 2.63% is the key
interest rate here in the example above. If you think that you can invest the lump-sum of
$359,400,000 and earn an average return of more than 2.63% per year over the next 26 years, then
take the lump-sum. If you do not think you can earn 2.63% per year over the next 26 years, then
take the annual payments (called an “annuity”). Of course, self-restraint may be an issue here, too –
if you’re concerned that you’ll waste the lump-sum buying things that no human being ever needs to
buy and you’re concerned you’ll blow the entire $359,400,000 in 5 years, then you might want to
take the annuity as it will impose some self-control on your spending behavior.
Now, for even more bad news: Whatever you win in the Lottery is subject to state and federal
income tax, meaning your $359,400,000 lump-sum might be closer to $250,000,000. That sounds
fine when you’re winning such large amounts. But let’s go back to the $10 that you and your 9
friends invested in the Lottery earlier in this section; your “expected” winnings of $5.37 on your $10
investment were before-tax, meaning your true after-tax “expected” winnings will be under $4.00.
Trading $10 for an expected $4 is very poor financial planning.
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YOUR CAREER
A FEW PIECES OF PERSONAL FINANCE ADVICE
As an entrepreneur, you may be leaving the corporate world and looking to create your own career.
Maybe you skip this section because it brings back some memories of bad jobs and horrible bosses
(and you’ll never be a horrible boss, right?). Or maybe you can keep reading to help put your move
to being your own boss into perspective. We won’t be offended either way.
While much of this book has focused on encouraging you to think about your long-term future, it’s
okay to focus on the short-term and enjoy today. Our purpose with this book is to help you to
manage what you do in the short-term so that you can maximize what you do in the long-term. So,
please keep taking care of yourselves in the short-term and keep living for today.
But also, please occasionally thinking about your future – because your future will be here sooner
than you think. You want to be prepared for it. Before you know it, you will be beginning your next
great adventure and your next great investment in yourself. Many of you will begin new jobs and
careers. Some of you will soon be starting families, travelling the world, and starting your own
businesses. Before you know it, you will move from pursuing your goals and dreams to actually
living your goals and dreams – and we want you to be prepared for that next great stage of your life.
What can we tell you – in a Personal Financial Planning guidebook – that will help you prepare for your
future jobs and careers? Perhaps not much. But we’re still going to try.
Here are some issues that you can be thinking about, with respect to maximizing your long-term
jobs and careers, while you’re still in school and focused on managing your short-term obligations.
Ø Many jobs claim that “experience is required.” Yet it can be very difficult for many young
adults to acquire relevant experience. Consider an internship, even if it’s unpaid. The
experience you earn can become very valuable in the future.
o Should you give up a high-paying job that may be unrelated to your future career
(such as waiting tables or bartending) to take an unpaid internship? As painful as it
may be (in the short-term), yes, you might have to at some point. Or, perhaps you
could do both, working to adjust your hours so lighten the workload.
Ø When preparing to find a full-time job, use as many resources as possible. Talk to your
friends and mentors. Do mock interviews. Get your resume reviewed. Incubators, college
campus and economic development agencies have many phenomenal resources designed to
make your future awesome – take advantage of all of them.
Ø When considering a full-time job, always look at the benefits it offers. That is, what non-
salary perquisites does the company offer? Health care? Retirement plan? Childcare?
Maternity and paternity leave? Other paid time off? Tuition reimbursement? When
considering such benefits, a $40,000 offer might be better for you than a $50,000 offer.
Ø One of the best investments you can make during your college years – and your early
entrepreneurial days – that will help you find a full-time job is to network. Go to career fairs,
alumni events, incubators, accelerators, pitch competitions and every networking event
possible. Right or wrong, “who you know” can be as (or more) important than “what you
know.” Networking will open up many new relationships that can benefit you in the future.
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Ø Don’t fear rejection or failure. Life is full of both. That’s okay. What matters is what you
learn from it and how you recover. Your “recovery rate” following negative experiences can
help sure you learn and build on such experiences to better create the future you want.
Ø Don’t procrastinate. The more you learn early on, the more prepared you’ll be when it
comes time to put your job hunting skills into practice. As a professor, there is little more
disappointing than talking to a student who has done nothing to prepare for finding a job
and who is about to graduate. The longer you wait, the fewer options you have. Maximize
your options by starting early.
Ø Create your own opportunities. If you have a vision for what you want to do but you don’t
see any job postings for that vision, make your own career. Create a side-hustle, freelance or
start your own business. This can help you develop amazing skills that you can then use to
market yourself for all sorts of opportunities. Ten years ago, the job “social media manager”
didn’t exist; now just about every company has one. Don’t wait for someone else to create
your future for you; design it and create it for yourself.
Ø If you’re still a student or a recent graduate, develop a relationship with 2 or 3 faculty
members. It doesn’t have to be much: go to office hours, ask questions in class, send them
professionally written emails. Do enough to leave a positive impression with them and to
make them remember who you are. At some point in the future, many of you will need a
letter of recommendation for a job (or possibly even for grad school). They might not do it
if they have no clue who you are.
o They may even be keys to your networks to help get your entrepreneurial venture off
the ground. And, in some cases, they may become investors or business partners.
Ø Create a LinkedIn page – for yourself and your business. Clean up your Instagram,
Facebook, Twitter and other accounts. Assume that everything you do is part of the public
record. Don’t make it easy for employers, investors or partners to ignore you.
Finally, we have all heard the cliché that “if you find a job you love, you’ll never work a day in your
life.” Is that true? Maybe, maybe not. Most of us go through times when we have to endure jobs that
do not give us purpose, joy, happiness or fulfillment. Most of us go through times when making
money is the only thing that matters. For me, it was working at The Gap at the mall in Dallas; there
was no purpose or joy, but there was enough money to help me pay some bills while I was building
my resume and working towards something that did give me purpose and joy. I didn’t figure out
what I wanted to do with my life until I was 29. But, ever since the first night I taught a college class
as an adjunct instructor, I have had the greatest job in the world for me.
Be patient and keep working hard… eventually you’ll find the greatest job in the world for you, too.
Once you get there, all the hard work will become the greatest investment you’ve ever made: the
investment in yourself and your future.
Own it. Create it. Control it. Make it about you. Make it amazing for you.
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MY ALL-TME FAVORITE FINANCIAL PLANNING EXERCISE
Let’s finish this chapter with an exercise that I frequently use in workshops and consulting as the
first exercise we do. It’s an exercise that integrates everything we’ve thought about throughout this
book. Yes, it’s a very abstract exercise – but that allows you many creative liberties. The key is that
you only take these creative liberties in telling this story here – over time, and in real life, you will
want to be as intentional, strategic and personal as possible with living this exercise.
What does retirement look like to you? Tell the full story of your retirement…
When do you retire? Where will you live? Who are you with? What do you do?
Think about other issues, such as health, hobbies, work, travel, charity and relationships.
You’re young. Retirement may feel like a long time off. But if you can think about what you will
need and do in retirement, that can help you design the financial plan that will help you get to
retirement – and the financial plan that will help you live the life you want to live.
In the space below, tell the full story of your retirement…and then make a plan to make it happen.
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Chapter 6 Summary
Insurance, Taxes, Retirement & Your Career
In the space below, please write down 5 things you learned in this chapter that will help you better
manage your insurance, income tax, retirement and career planning.
1. _____________________________________________________________
2. _____________________________________________________________
3. _____________________________________________________________
4. _____________________________________________________________
5. _____________________________________________________________
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My Pledge to My Future Self:
I hereby pledge to take control of my financial future by proactively planning for my financial future,
incorporating insurance, income tax and retirement strategies before small problems can become
very large issues.
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Signature Date
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CHAPTER 7
COMMON TAX PLANNING ISSUES FOR ENTREPRENEURS
This chapter does NOT contain tax advice.
This chapter does NOT contain legal advice.
This chapter does NOT tell you how to manage or pay your taxes.
This chapter does NOT have any true information from the IRS tax code. All of the
numbers included in this chapter are either hypothetical or are taken from prior-year tax
guidance. You should assume that the current or future numbers are different from those
used for example in this chapter.
Do not assume that anything in this chapter is explicit tax guidance.
This chapter only contains examples of tax-related issues that may arise in your life as an
entrepreneur. These issues may obligate you to pay more in income tax or they may enable
you to pay less in income tax.
Always consult with a tax professional and the IRS tax code
before making any tax-related decisions.
Now, with the legalese out of the way, what is this chapter about? This chapter introduces a few tax-
relevant or tax-adjacent issues that may become a part of your life – both your professional and your
personal life – as an entrepreneur. As you know, as an entrepreneur your personal and business lives
will frequently overlap. And these overlaps may either oblige you to follow different tax rules or they
may create opportunities for you to enjoy some tax efficiencies.
Again, all of the discussions in this chapter are merely suggestive of some of the issues you may
encounter and you should assume all of the numbers are made up.
Always consult a tax professional for true tax guidance.
Remember the 10 tips every entrepreneur should take care of as soon as possible from Chapter 1?
Three of those tips are particularly relevant as we get into possible tax planning issues for you:
Separate your personal and financial business lives.
Get your financial and accounting systems in order.
Track every penny that you spend (and that you earn).
These actions will make your tax planning life much, much easier. As we mentioned in Chapter 1,
when it comes to dealing with the IRS and demonstrating that your tax planning practices are
appropriate, it is generally incumbent on the taxpayer to defend their practices: guilty until you prove
yourself innocent. Get your documents in order first, and then look for strategic opportunities.
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First, let’s review a few reminders that apply to just about everyone reading this:
1. We only owe income taxes on income.
If you invest $1,000 and it grows to $1,500, you owe taxes on $500 only.
There may be years when your taxable income – your income less deductible
expenses – is negative. You may be able to apply these losses to the income you
make in other years. The IRS is nice like this.
2. File and pay. There are penalties if you do not.
3. Taxes are based on cash. If cash changes hands, there are likely taxes owed.
4. You may need to file personal and business taxes as an entrepreneur.
5. The discussion that follows is only for U.S. federal tax policy. Most states have their own
policies which will impose taxes in addition to those discussed here. Sorry.
CHOICE OF TYPE OF LEGAL ENTITY & LEGAL LIABILITY
As soon as – or even before – you become an entrepreneur, you should meet with an
attorney or tax accountant to determine how to legally structure your business.
What are the options and what are the differences?
Different states will have slightly different options for how to legally structure your business; but the
following options are the most common structures that most entrepreneurs consider (even though
there are many other possible choices, which are variations of the following):
1. Sole proprietorship – This is the default, in case you do not file for one of the other options,
especially when there is just one owner of the business. If you are turning a hobby or side-
hustle into a business, this may be the easiest, cheapest and most natural structure to choose.
But that doesn’t mean it’s the best. It’s cheap and easy, you are only taxed as an individual,
but you are limited to just 1 owner and you may be subject to unlimited personal liability.
Business debts become personal debts; and business lawsuits may become personal lawsuits.
2. Partnership – This may be the natural option when you have multiple people as owners.
There are 2 primary types of partnerships that owners will form, and they can have very
different advantages and disadvantages:
a. General Partnership – This is kind of the same as a sole proprietorship but with
multiple owners. It’s relatively easy, you can have an unlimited number of partners,
you are taxed at the individual level, but, again, the partners are personally liable for
business debts of the entity.
b. Limited Partnership – This is more costly and requires more thoughtful structuring
than a general partnership. An LP is structured with one general partner as the
managing partner, plus an unlimited number of limited partners as owners. Taxation
only occurs at the individual level. Only the business entity – and any individual
general or managing partners – are responsible for the debts of the business; limited
partners are protected from personally incurring debts of the business. That’s good.
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3. Limited Liability Corporation (LLC) – To many entrepreneurs, this is the gold standard of
legal entity choices: individual owners are not responsible for the debts of the business and
they are only taxed once, at the individual level. That’s all very good. Members/Owners can
be involved in management and there can be an unlimited number of owners. An LLC can
be expensive to create and maintain, and significant issues can arise if one member leaves the
entity. All LLCs file Articles of Incorporation with the state and the Articles govern much of
what the entity is allowed to do, which can be restrictive. But many entrepreneurs find that
the benefits of an LLC far outweigh the significant costs. (Note – if you are a single-
member LLC, all tax reporting will usually be done at the individual level, and there is a
chance that you will be held personally liable for business debts. Be careful.)
4. Corporation – We probably hear about corporations the most in the news, but most
businesses are not corporations – for good reason (see above). Corporations are expensive
to create and maintain and have many responsibilities; but, like an LLC, they have many
benefits that may appeal to many entrepreneurs, especially as the business gets larger. There
are two very different types of corporations that are generally allowed:
a. C Corporations – When you watch the news and read about large multinational
businesses, most of these are C Corporations. C Corporations are costly to create
and maintain. There is a corporate entity that manages the business; and there can be
an unlimited number of owners (who may also be managers). It can be relatively easy
to raise capital and you can have multiple classes of shares, which may give you – the
founder – unique voting rights over all other owners. Owners have limited liability;
they are not personally liable for business debts.
However, C Corporations have one big, unique downside: double taxation. Income
is taxed at the entity level and then again at the individual level, if/when income is
distributed to the owners. Thus, if the business has a 20% tax rate and an owner has
a 30% tax rate, the owner will receive only $100 x (1 – 20%) x ((1 – 30%) = $56 for
every $100 of taxable income the corporation has. That kind of stinks – but it may
well be worth the benefits of having all operations and liability in the corporate shell.
b. S Corporation – An S Corporation is simply a C Corporation that elects the special
tax status of an S Corporation. That election gets rid of the double taxation; income
is not taxed at the entity level, so business income is only taxed at the individual level.
That’s good – but it’s not free. In exchange for this special status, the business is
limited to 100 shareholders and can have only 1 class of stock; the owners cannot be
corporations, partnerships or nonresident aliens. And, because an S Corporation is
really a partnership or LLC under the corporate shell, raising capital – either debt or
equity – can be difficult and may require personal guarantees of the owners.
This is a quick and dirty – and hopefully not dangerous – overview of the legal entity options that
entrepreneurs have to choose from. The two issues that generally differentiate them are where legal
liability resides and where taxation occurs. To keep things (relatively) simple here, I have not
mentioned smaller differences, such as self-employment tax on cash flows or what types of entities
can be owners or partners (hint: it’s not always just individuals). But hopefully this is good enough to
get you started. Talk to a lawyer, talk to a tax accountant, figure out your business plan and think
about what your business is going to be in 5 years to help guide your decision.
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TRACK & RECORD EVERY SINGLE (POSSIBLE) BUSINESS EXPENSE
In Chapter 1, we recommended tracking every single business expense. Why?
As taxpayers, we like having tax deductible expenses. Deductible expenses lower our Taxable
Income and having lower Taxable Income means we will pay less in Income Taxes. That means we
keep more cash. That’s good.
As an entrepreneur, every penny you can earn – and keep – is critical. Small amounts can make big
differences. You want to be able to benefit from every possible business expense tax deduction
available to you as an entrepreneur. From the IRS’s perspective, it is incumbent on you – the
taxpayer – to demonstrate that the business expenses you deduct are legitimate. Track every
expense, keep every receipt, and think strategically about how you claim your expenses to minimize
your Taxable Income and keep as much of your cash as possible.
You also want to track every single penny of (possible) business income – because the law requires
you to report all such income to the IRS. As a budding entrepreneur, there may be times when there
are gray areas…such as when a friend becomes a client, or you sell something in cash, or you
provide a service to a family member. If there’s an exchange of goods or services for value (whether
that value is in cash or in some other form of compensation), you are required to report it as
income. So you need to track every penny. When in doubt, assume the other party will be reporting
the transaction as a business expense for their taxes, which means the IRS will know that you
received compensation in that transaction. Assume the IRS knows everything.
From a business perspective, tracking every single penny of income and expense will help make you
become a better manager. Such tracking – especially if you use an accounting system that gives you
piles of reports and graphs – can become data, and data can become information, and information
will give you the power and perspective to make better business decisions. Use this power.
From a personal finance perspective, you want to keep all of your business and personal transactions
separate. Tracking every penny will help you do so. You have both business and personal goals. As
an entrepreneur, these goals will frequently overlap. But you never want one set of actions to
compromise your ability to achieve all of your other goals. Tracking every penny – of both business
and personal activities – will help you understand if you are on track to achieve both your business
and personal goals…and will help you adjust your plans to make sure you do achieve these goals.
HOME OFFICE & PERSONAL EQUIPMENT ISSUES
You’ve been using your home as your business base as an entrepreneur. What are the tax
implications of using home office and personal equipment for your business?
There’s good news here – you can (probably) turn your home expenses into tax deductible business
expenses. There are limits and rules on what you can deduct, so be sure to consult true tax experts.
Maybe you’re baking cookies or home-cooked meals in your home kitchen.
Maybe you’re building artisan tables and desks with your personal tools out of your garage.
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Maybe you’re operating your consulting business out of your home office.
Some – or all – of the expenses related to this may be tax deductible…that means you can include
them as expenses on your business tax return to lower the cash you owe the IRS. This is true
regardless of whether your own or rent your home. But maybe these expenses are not deductible.
The general IRS policy is that the amount of the deductions are based on the percentage of the
home devoted to business use. This requires calculations about both how you use your home for
business purposes. If your rent is $1000 and you use a spare room that is 20% of the size of the
house for your business, you may be entitled to $1000 x .20 = $200 as a business expense.
There are two (potentially big) caveats to this policy.
1. The space should be your primary place of business. It does not have to be your only place
of business. You can have a separate storefront or workshop, too, so long as the use of the
house is principally for business. If the use of the home for business is just for convenience
and not as the principal place of business, you might not get the deduction.
2. The use should be regular and exclusive. This means you should use a specific area of your
home – such as office or garage – for business on a regular basis. There are two exceptions
to this: (1) using the home space for storage of inventory, and (2) using the home space for a
qualified day care facility.
This means that the example above of baking cookies or home-cooked meals in your home
kitchen might not be allowed. If this is your primary family/home kitchen, and is only used
part-time for business purposes, then it probably does not count as regular and exclusive.
The IRS allows for both “direct” and “indirect” home business expenses to be deducted. Direct
expenses are those that are entirely for the business space; if you spend $300 to fix a broken window
in your home office, the entire $300 is a business expense (the same would be true if you spent
$2500 to build a business greenhouse in your backyard). Indirect expenses are general home
expenses, such as rent, mortgage, insurance or utilities; with indirect expenses, your deduction is
based on the percentage of use example above. It is possible that some of these examples – such as
utilities – may be both direct and indirect expenses, if you can prove that the increased expenses are
exclusively business expenses, you may be able to apply more than just the percentage. Maybe.
A few concluding comments…before reminding you to consult with a tax professional on all of this:
Yes, you can deduct rent, mortgage, insurance, utilities and other common expenses.
Yes, you probably can deduct repairs, maintenance and business improvements…if they
qualify based on the regular and exclusive use requirement above.
Yes, you may even be able to deduct home depreciation as a business expense. You will
estimate the value of your home at the time you started using it for business and then
recognize annual depreciation based on the IRS schedule over 39 years. You can only
depreciate the portion of the home you are using for your business, not the whole thing.
And, land does not depreciate, so this only applies to the buildings.
No, you probably cannot take any home office deductions if you are a full-time
employee of a business and have been working at home part-time or voluntarily. This
applies to most of us during Covid-times. The business gets the deduction, not you. A
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possible exception is if your home office is required by the employer and exclusively for
the convenience of the employee, then you may be able to deduct it personally.
For entrepreneurs, working at home is very common. And it would be great if you can expense a
significant portion of your home expenses on your business tax return. But be very careful – the IRS
pays a lot of attention to this area, because lots of people try to abuse it (I mean, we all have home
expenses we would like to deduct). Keep detailed records, build your case and talk to a professional.
DEPRECIATION
I hear that a lot of entrepreneurs have their business own their vehicle. Why?
The answer to this question is one simple word: Depreciation.
As individuals, married or single, we do not get to deduct personal expenses – such as owning a car
or eating dinner – on our personal income tax returns. But businesses get to deduct such expenses,
to the extent they can justify those expenses as being essential to running the business. See the above
discussion on home office expenses.
Depreciation allows us to allocate a portion of the purchase price of the vehicle – including all taxes
and fees an options – over the estimated useful life of the vehicle as a business expense. The IRS
tells you explicitly what amounts (or percentages) you are allowed to deduct each year:
At least 50% of the vehicle use must be for business.
The business much own the vehicle (even if there is loan outstanding).
The amount of deprecation varies by vehicle weight, so it may be different for cars,
SUVs, trucks or vans.
The amount of depreciation will be a percentage of how much you use the vehicle for
business. If you drive 20,000 miles in a year, and 12,000 miles are for business, then 60%
of the vehicle’s depreciation can be deducted for business.
Slapping an advertisement on your personal car doesn’t change the use of the vehicle,
unless it meets the above requirements.
Ask your tax accountant if you qualify for a Section 179 deduction, which may allow you
to deduct the entire amount of a new vehicle in the first year of ownership.
Yes, this is a personal finance issue. If you own your car or truck and use it for business purposes as
an entrepreneur, you can lower your overall tax bill by having the business own the vehicle and then
taking the depreciation deduction to lower the business’s Taxable Income. Track every penny, track
every mile, keep all records and talk to a professional.
Note – the same might apply for other personal equipment, such as tools or a sewing machine or
even a computer. If you use depreciable property for both personal and business purposes, you may
get to depreciate a portion of that property’s value to reduce your tax liability. Maybe.
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MILEAGE, FOOD, TRAVEL & OTHER EXPENSES
Are there any other quasi-personal expenses that can become deductible business expenses?
No. Because the IRS would never use a term like “quasi-personal.” Expenses are either business
expenses or personal expenses; there are no gray areas and there is no overlap.
So this is your regular and repeated reminder to track every penny, draw distinct divisions between
your personal and business lives and create different financial stories for your business and your
personal lives.
Having said that, there are a lot of expenses that entrepreneurs incur through their daily lives – as
both humans and entrepreneurs – that may be eligible to be deductible business expenses.
Depreciation is not the only vehicle-related expense that you can deduct. Every mile you drive
for business reasons is deductible (at $0.56 per mile for 2021). Gas, maintenance, new tires…all
costs of using your car for business purposes – with the appropriate percentage allocation – can
be deducted. If you get a flat tire while driving your kids to school in your business vehicle, a
percentage of the repair is still a business expense.
If you travel for business – perhaps to a convention or conference – all business costs related to
that trip are potentially business deductions. If you drive, you can deduct the mileage (at $0.56
per mile for 2021).
§ What if a 3-day business trip becomes a 5-day trip with a couple days of personal
vacation included? In general, all expenses related to the business portion would be
deductible – including the airfare or mileage – while the 2 days of food and lodging for
personal vacation would not be deductible.
§ If your family of 4 joins you on your business trip, you can deduct whatever expenses
you – the businessperson – would have incurred for the trip. You should be able to
deduct all mileage if you drive, plus 1 hotel room. If you fly, you can only deduct 1
airfare charge. If you get a suite for the whole family, you can only deduct the portion of
the cost that you would have incurred if you were travelling alone; if you always get a
family suite for business, even when you travel alone, you may be able to justify the
deduction when the whole family joins you. Telling your story and justifying your history
is key here.
§ Meals while travelling have historically been 50% deductible; you can only deduct 50%
of the cost. The 50% deduction has also applied to other business food expenses (such
as buying meals for employees for overtime or office snacks). However, the IRS allowed
100% of most business meals to be deductible if they were purchased from a restaurant
in 2021 and 2022. This rule may or may not still be in effect…but it’s been a pretty nice
new benefit to look for.
Buying lunch for a mentor, potential client or employee is probably deductible (and it may be
eligible for the 100% deduction mentioned above). Does it matter if this mentor, potential client
or employee is a friend or family member? Technically, no – because the meal is either for
business purposes or it’s not. If it’s for business purposes, it’s deductible; if it’s for personal
purposes, it’s not deductible. What if you buy your cousin lunch where you spend 20% of the
time trying to convince her to become a client and 80% of the time reminiscing about last
summer’s family reunion? You should be able to deduct 20% of the cost of the meal (at either
50% or 100%); you could certainly tell a story that you can deduct the full cost as the entire meal
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was part of the wining-and-dining process. It’s never a moral compass issue. It’s a business
purpose issue.
There are no gray areas in IRS policy. In life, and especially when entrepreneurial and personal lives
seem to overlap, there may appear to be gray areas. Recognize these, record them, track them. The
more records you keep and the more history you have in your financial and accounting life, the
better you will be able to tell your story. If I want to pay the extra money for the family suite at the
Ritz-Carlton every time I travel, that’s my choice. The IRS cannot tell me that I’m not allowed to do
that. But doing so – and documenting it – may help me tell my story if I ever need to convince the
IRS that this is my normal practice the next time I travel on business with my family of 4 and deduct
the full expense of the suite. The better your records are, the better your story will be.
CHARITABLE DONATIONS
Are there any tax benefits to whether you make charitable donations as a business or as an
individual?
In short: It depends…principally on the type of legal entity you have and the amount of income.
The rules and regulations on charitable giving are very complex and strict – but there are plenty of
opportunities to share with others.
First and foremost, the recipient organization must be a registered 501(c)3 non-profit. Second, gifts
of cash and property are relatively straightforward; you can deduct the actual amount of cash you
give or the current market value of any property you donate. You can also deduct most travel
expenses – with different rules from above – when you or your employees travel to volunteer.
If the legal entity is a pass-through entity where you’re only taxed at the individual level (basically,
anything other than a C Corporation), there may not be a big cash flow difference whether you
donate from the business or from your personal account. If your business is a C Corporation, and
you are the sole owner, you want the entity with the higher marginal tax rate to make the donation.
And this is good advice generally: you want the expense to occur in the highest possible tax bracket.
In general, you can donate up to 50% of your Adjusted Gross Income, whether at the business level
or the individual level (this percentage may differ depending on the type of gift).
Note: you generally CANNOT get a tax deduction for professional services provided. If you are an
accountant or lawyer or plumber, and you generally charge $200 per hour of labor, you CANNOT
deduct $200 per hour of donated service. You can deduct $0 for your time. If you are an accountant
or lawyer or plumber and you spend your weekends volunteering at a local pet shelter or reading to
children, you can also deduct $0 of your time. This goes to your employees’ time, too. The time they
spend volunteering CANNOT be deducted….either by them individually or by your business. Sorry.
Why would you want to make charitable donations as an entrepreneur? For all entrepreneurs, Cash
is Queen. You have to have cash to pay bills and to keep your business going. If your business
donates $1,000 to a charity…yes, you may get $200 back in tax savings, but you’re still out $800.
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You may still want to do this to build your reputation within the community. Maybe you
sponsor a local fun-run in get lots of publicity and build relationships.
You may want to instill a giving mentality with your employees, reminding them that this
is an important part of what the business is and creating a positive culture.
Your personal values may drive the financial decisions the business makes. If you are the
sole owner, this is fine; if you have other partners and you all share the same priorities,
this is fine. But you want to be careful about donations when you have multiple or many
non-managing owners who may not want you investing/spending their money this way.
Your goal as a business owner – or at least one of your goals – should be to maximize the economic
value of the business. It is up to you to create the business model that does just this. Connecting to
community, donating cash or property and volunteering services can certainly be a part of this
business model for your business. But the mission of creating economic value for you and your
stakeholders should be your priority; any tax deductions you get from such charity are just a bonus.
SELF-EMPLOYMENT ISSUES
Are there any personal tax issues I need to be aware of from a self-employment perspective?
Yes, lots of them…because here there is considerable overlap between your entrepreneurial and
personal lives. As always, consult a legal advisor and tax accountant for details.
If your business is a C Corporation, then you may not have any self-employment issues. But if your
legal entity is sole proprietorship, partnership, LLC or S Corporation, you are subject to pass
through taxes – which means you are only taxed at the individual level – and that means you may
need to be aware of a number of self-employment issues. I apologize in advance for all the numbers.
All self-employed individuals – such as owners in pass-through entities – pay income tax on
earnings, plus self-employment FICA taxes. For 2021, the self-employment FICA taxes are up to
15.3% of income (12.4% for Social Security on income up to $137,700, and 2.9% for Medicare
on all earnings).
§ Self-employed individuals are not subject to paying unemployment under the Federal
Unemployment Tax Act (FUTA) on themselves.
§ But they are required to pay under FUTA for employees. The amount of the tax, for
2021, was 6% of the first $7,000 in income, up to $420 per employee.
§ And, the employer is required to pay the same 15.3%, subject to limits, for each
employee…just as many of us are used to seeing on our W-2 form.
The 15.3% combined Social Security and Medicare costs are technically split between employee
and employer. This distinction is clear when you are an employee. But as a self-employed
business owner, you’re both. Thus, you can deduct ½ of this expense as a business expense.
Health Care is required; the Affordable Care Act requires all taxpayers to be covered by health
care insurance. If you’re self-employed, you have to provide your own health care coverage (and
possibly coverage to all employees). This can be expensive – but, of course, all related expenses
are tax deductible by the business (on the individual return).
§ You may be able to include your family in your health care plan, even if it is sponsored
by the business. Unlike many other deductions, this deduction is “above-the-line,”
meaning it is taken before you calculate Adjusted Gross Income. This means it will lower
your Adjusted Gross Income and will lower your Taxable Income. That’s good.
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If you have employees, you will probably want the business to pay for health care and other
business expenses. And then you – the individual – should be able to benefit from these
deductible expense on your personal tax return (because you are the self-employed owner, and
all business income and expenses are effectively out of your pocket).
There may be similar benefits that a self-employed entrepreneur can receive by incurring
business expenses – life insurance, security, uniforms – that the individual can use.
§ As always, the key is whether the expense is essential to the operations of the
business…the individual benefitting from those expense is a side perk.
§ The self-employed owner either pays for the expenses out of the business account or the
personal account….any differences will be minor because the owner is the individual.
This list of issues that self-employed entrepreneurs should be concerned about is not exhaustive.
The same recurring advice applies: track everything and talk to a tax professional.
EMPLOYEES: HIRING & PAYING
As an entrepreneur, what do I need to know before I hire my first employee?
Lots. This is one reason many entrepreneurs like being sole proprietors: because they control
everything and because building a business has so many rules and regulations.
This is a personal finance book, not an entrepreneurial finance book. Many employee-related issues
are business issues, not personal issues. But we want to offer a few issues here before you consider
expanding your business…as doing so might impact your personal financial situation, as much as it
affects your mental health.
1. Paying people is not easy. You might need a professional payroll processor to handle all of
the legal and tax responsibilities (assuming you do not have a human resources department).
2. The business will need to withhold income taxes from the employee’s paycheck; this is why
many entrepreneurs use “consultants” or “contractors” before hiring anyone (it’s much
simpler) and lets the entrepreneur focus on visions and missions and changing the world.
3. The business will need to withhold Social Security (12.4%, up to $137,700) and Medicare
(2.9%) taxes. Technically, half of this 15.3% is paid by the business and tax deductible.
4. The business may need to provide health care coverage to its employees.
5. Should the business choose to offer tax-preferred retirement benefits – perhaps, in part, to
help the owners build their wealth and protect their family’s future – then there are rules
about offering similar benefits to all employees. If the owner gets tax-preferred treatment,
then the owner must offer similar – but not always the same – benefits to employees.
Again, this list is not exhaustive. There are more issues you should be concerned with before hiring
your first official employee. Talk to a tax professional first…and possibly talk to a payroll processor
second. You may be able to handle all of this – relatively easily and cheaply – through your
accounting software; but you want to know that before you hiring anyone and not find out after.
Does any of these “hiring employees” issues change if you are hiring family members? Let’s see…
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FAMILY MEMBERS IN THE BUSINESS
Do any of these “hiring employees” issues change if you are hiring family members?
Technically, no. The IRS does not give preferential or punitive treatment when you, the business
owner and entrepreneur, chooses to hire a family member to work in your business.
Of course, there may be labor laws in your state that dictate the ages at which children can join your
business and there may be Equal Employment Opportunity issues related to your hiring. Talk to a
lawyer to know what these issues may be.
This is a personal finance book, so let’s talk about a few personal finance issues that may result from
having family members on your payroll…or even as owners of your business.
Again, there are generally no additional expenses or benefits to having family members join your
business as employees…at least none more than any other employees.
Can your business pay one of your family members, even if they do not technically work for the
business? Officially, yes…but you must pay and treat them just as you would any other
employee. They can have a preferential salary and job description, but you cannot avoid any tax
or regulatory obligations related to them. Nepotism is fully legal.
§ However, most business consultants would argue to be very, very careful about hiring
family members…especially ones that do nothing. They may compromise the culture of
the firm, they may become distractions, they may destroy the mission and vision of the
business. Nothing is free.
§ And, whatever you pay them comes out of the business accounts…which means it
comes out of your pocket as the entrepreneur owner. Nothing is free.
When you start your business, there may be short-term and long-term issues related to having
family members co-own the business.
§ If you have multiple owners, you cannot be a sole proprietorship.
§ When you start your business, it is worth $0.00. And each share or fraction of ownership
is worth $0.00. So you can create multiple owners, without giving away anything today.
Of course, all owners will be entitled to all future income and benefits the business
enjoys (and possibly all future debts). But sharing ownership early can have benefits later.
§ How you choose to legally structure the business will dictate how all future responsibility
for income and debts are shared by all owners.
You, as the owner-entrepreneur, are entitled to the residual income that the business generates.
Thus, it may matter how you pay yourself or take money from the business.
§ You can pay yourself a traditional salary, deducting taxes up-front. But you may not want
the salary you take in January to lead to the company’s bankruptcy in April or May. The
timing of the cash flows matters.
§ You can take distributions or dividends as the owner. You will pay self-employment
related taxes on your personal income tax return. But you may have to wait several
months before the business generates income for you to take.
§ The differences are primarily the timing of cash flows, especially for very young start-up
businesses. If the business generates income, you’ll get it eventually either way…and
you’ll pay the same taxes, either way.
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Let’s assume the best-case scenario: your business is enormously successful and you want to pass
ownership onto your family members.
§ If you pass ownership onto them after the business becomes very valuable, you may own
significant estate taxes.
Let’s assume you give each of your 3 children 25% of your business. If you give
them this after your business becomes worth $100 million, they may owe estate
taxes on about $88 million, which might be about $35 million. If you give them
each 25% ownership when your business is worth $1 million and then it grows to
become worth $100 million, they may not owe any estate taxes.
§ But if you pass ownership onto them before it becomes very valuable, you may be
changing the structure and management of the business. Perhaps the business owned by
multiple family members never grows to become worth $100 million…and their
ownership of the business takes it from being worth $1,000,000 to being worth $100.
Consider the timing, consider the people, consider the strategy. Bringing family members into the
business can create some business and personal benefits – but it is never without costs. Be careful.
PAYING YOURSELF A SALARY
Can you pay yourself a salary as the entrepreneur business-owner?
Yes. See above.
You can pay yourself a traditional salary, deducting taxes up-front, just as you would with any other
employee. But you may not want the salary you take in January to lead to the company’s bankruptcy
in April or May. The timing of the cash flows matters.
Can you pay yourself overtime?
I mean, sure you can. But why would you? You might have to pay self-employment and all other
taxes on both the salary and the overtime. So, in addition to moving cash from one account you
own to another account you own, you might be paying more in taxes.
If I don’t pay myself a salary, how do I get any cash flow out of the business?
You take owner’s distributions. These may be subject to all self-employment related taxes, including
Social Security, Medicare and Income taxes, depending on your choice of legal entity. You own the
cash so you are entitled to it. But the IRS wants to get its share of income that you and your
business creates.
The differences between paying yourself a salary and taking distributions (or draws or dividends) are
primarily the timing of cash flows, especially for very young start-up businesses. If the business
generates income, you’ll get it eventually either way…and you’ll pay the same taxes, either way.
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What are the personal finance implications to paying yourself a salary?
Timing. With a salary, you can have a predictable income. With distributions, you never really know
when there’s going to be cash take out of the business. Of course, if the business cannot afford to
pay you a salary, you probably do not want to take it and bankrupt the business.
For you and your family, knowing that you may go months – or years – without a regular salary will
be critical to managing your personal finances. Before you commit to this lifestyle, you need to make
sure you and your family are willing and able to endure long periods of financial drought.
RETIREMENT PLANNING
When you were an employee at a multinational corporation, they may have provided you
with a tax-deferred and tax-preferred retirement plan. You hated your job but that was a
cool perk. How do you prepare for retirement now that you’re an entrepreneur on your own?
That was a pretty cool perk, wasn’t it? If you were lucky, your multinational corporation even gave
you a company match that effectively and indirectly increased your income by maybe 5% or 8%.
Now that you’re on your own, as an entrepreneur and business owner, that cool perk is gone. So
what can you do to begin to prepare for your retirement?
In general, there are two options. You might be able to do either or both of these.
1. You can establish your own company-sponsored retirement plan, much like the one your
former employer did. The IRS – as a function of the U.S. government – loves to incentivize
businesses and individuals to save for their retirement (to lessen the burden on the Social
Security system). These incentives are in the form of tax benefits.
If you had a 401(k) previously, the main benefit (in addition to any company match) was the
deferral of taxes. You did not pay taxes when the money was put into your retirement plan;
you will not pay taxes as the money grows; you will only pay income taxes when you
withdraw money in retirement. If you withdraw too early, there will be taxes and you will
owe penalties. But waiting until retirement to pay taxes is a really nice benefit.
The IRS provides many different eligible retirement plans that small businesses can create to
similarly provide retirement deferred tax benefits to owners and employees. We will not
discuss them all here. Talk to a lawyer and tax accountant to establish your own plan.
You get to choose the type of plan such that it benefits you the most.
The IRS sets rules on amount of contributions and vesting of contributions. You
cannot do anything you want, but you can choose different types of plans to pick
the rules that work best for you.
The IRS sets rules on who must be covered under a plan. Generally, all full-time
employees must be given the option to participate while you may not have to
provide similar benefits to part-time employees.
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You can always give more and better benefits than required by the IRS, but you
cannot give fewer or worse benefits than required by law.
You cannot – generally – give yourself preferential treatment with the retirement
benefits provided within the plan. That is, you cannot give yourself a 90% tax-
deferred matching contribution but only give your employees a 2% contribution.
You can give different classes of employees, such as leadership, different
benefits, but the IRS determines how much this impacts what you give all others.
Once you start a plan, you are effectively committed to making contributions to
the plan, for yourself and your employees. That means you have contractual
obligations to make these payments. You likely want to wait until your business
has the recurring cash flow available to make these contractual payments.
These plans are costly, cumbersome and require a fair bit of legal expertise. The
benefits of deferring income into your retirement years can be substantial, but
please be aware of the costs and burdens that are required with these plans.
2. You can create an IRA, an Individual Retirement Account. We talked about these in Chapter
5 on Investing. These are very easy to establish, for just about every entrepreneur or
employee in America. And the tax-deferred benefits are very, very nice, too.
You will hear the terms of IRA and Roth-IRA frequently. Both are good. Both
have kind-of similar benefits (tax deferral of growth). But there are significant
differences between the two.
§ An IRA uses before-tax income. That means if you contribute $5,000 to
your IRA account, your taxable income is reduced by $5,000 on your
personal income tax return. The IRA money will then grow, tax-deferred,
until you begin withdrawing in retirement. Then you will owe ordinary
income taxes when you take these distributions in retirement.
§ A Roth IRA uses after-tax income. You take your current after-tax income
and invest it in a Roth IRA. You’ve already paid income tax on this cash.
The money will then grow, tax-deferred, until you begin withdrawing in
retirement. But you will not owe any tax on these withdrawals. You’ve
already paid taxes.
§ Besides the rules on eligibility – which are significant – the primary issue is
whether you would prefer to pay income tax today or in the future.
An IRA can be set up relatively easily with many different registered brokerage
firms: Fidelity, Bank of America, Charles Schwab and many others.
For 2021, individuals can contribute $6,000 per year to either type of IRA.
There are income and eligibility limits to whether these contributions are tax
deductible.
§ If your employer offers a qualified plan and your income or joint family
income is above certain limits, you are not able to deduct any contributions
to an IRA. You can contribute, but it may not be tax deductible.
§ If your income is above the limit for a Roth IRA, you cannot contribute
(because all Roth IRA contributions are already after tax).
§ If you’re over 50 years old, you can contribute an additional $1,000 per
year, for a total annual contribution of $7,000. This entire amount may be
tax deductible with a traditional IRA if you meet the income policies.
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There are no commitments on your part. You can contribute $5,000 this year,
$2,000 next year, skip a year, then contribute $6,000. Whatever works for you.
Perhaps the best part of an IRA – in addition to the tax deferral benefits – is that
you get to choose what investments you make with your funds. There are all
sorts of mutual funds that you can select from, as well as many other securities;
there are limits to what you can invest in, that your brokerage firm will make
perfectly clear to you.
In case you’re wondering…yes, you can utilize multiple retirement plans at the same time. Each will
have its own income, eligibility and contribution policies. So long as you qualify to each plan under
its own policies, you are generally permitted to contribute to – and benefit from – multiple tax-
preferred retirement plans at the same time.
As you know, nothing if free here. Yes, the IRS provides tax deferral benefits for investing in a
qualified retirement plan. But it costs you to do so. If you utilize an IRA, you have flexibility on how
much you contribute each year. If you create a company-sponsored plan for yourself and your
employees, there is a fair bit of commitment; your employees will expect benefits to continue into
the future. So each of these requires you to have cash to make things happen. That’s your priority.
ESTATE PLANNING
You plan on your business becoming enormously successful. You expect to be the next
Zuckerberg or Winfrey. But even more successful. And you want to eventually pass on your
enormously successful business to your family. What estate planning issues should you be
thinking about early in your company’s life, when it start becoming successful?
This is the definition of a “champagne problem.” For your sake, it hope you have to deal with it.
We talked about this briefly in the above section on bringing family members into the business. So
we’ll just go into a few more specifics here.
For 2022, individuals are allowed to pass on $12,060,000 to their heirs when they die (assuming they
die during 2022). That’s the estate tax lifetime exemption. In theory, it includes gifts not just at
death, but any gifts over the annual exclusion made before death. This number changes just about
every year. It has been increasing recently. But it is subject to the political whims of the day. In 2010,
it was infinite – no estate tax for people who died in 2010 – and it could go down to $0 in the future.
We never know. But we can always plan.
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Let’s assume your business grows to be worth $100,000,000 at the time of your death. Let’s also
assume that the only assets you have are in the business; this $100,000,000 is your entire estate.
In general, you will owe estate taxes on the difference between this and the exemption:
$100,000,000 Value of your entire estate
($12,060,000) Estate tax lifetime exemption
$ 87,940,000 Taxable estate
This is probably a good time to remind you that estate taxes are subject to 40% taxes.
They are different from the ordinary income and capital gains rates most of us are more
familiar with. As of 2022, they are a flat 40% for all of your taxable estate.
Thus, under this example, where you own 100% of your business, here’s how much you
will leave to your heirs:
$100,000,000 – ($87,940,000 x 40%) = $64,824,000
Now let’s consider the example mentioned previously, where you decided to gift each of
your 3 children 25% of your entrepreneurial business when it was only worth $1,000,000.
With this kind of soothsaying foresight, how much are your heirs getting when you die?
$ 25,000,000 Value of YOUR entire estate (each kid also has $25,000,000)
($12,060,000) Estate tax lifetime exemption
$ 12,940,000 Taxable estate
Now you will leave your heirs:
$25,000,000 – ($12,940,000 x 40%) = $19,824,000
Each of your 3 heirs will now have:
$25,000,000 + $19,824,000 / 3 = $31,608,000
Now, combined all of your 3 heirs will now receive:
$31,608,000 x 3 = $94,824,000
By having the soothsaying foresight to give away 75% of your company early in its early
days rather than later, you were able to give your heirs $30,000,000 more at your death.
This means you gave the government $30,000,000 less. Libertarians rejoice!
This example ignores the very important issue of how your heirs might pay their estate taxes without
having to sell the business. That is a real and significant issue. You may need to make sure your heirs
have the cash before you die in order be able pay estate taxes. Libertarians hate this (as do many
other non-political, hard-working and successful entrepreneurs). Do you have to liquidate or sell the
business? Maybe. Sometimes planning ahead won’t help here. The IRS does allow an exemption in
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certain situations where you pass your business on to your heirs; this exemption is designed for
farms or other family businesses that have relatively strict rules (this is called a special-use valuation
provision, and you definitely need to talk to a professional if you think you are eligible).
This example is relatively simple and certainly hypothetical. You can decide how unrealistic it is. The
purpose of this example is to demonstrate how you – as the business owner – can make certain
decisions and take certain actions – as the business owner – that will have significantly different
impacts on your family and potential heirs if your business becomes extremely successful. You
certainly may not want to sacrifice cash flow or control early in your business life in exchange for the
relatively tiny possibility that you can save some money after you die….but you always want to be
aware of the rules and regulations to better make decisions that just might matter to your family.
Another real and serious issue is giving gifts or your estate to grandchildren: doing so may have even
higher tax costs than the above example…but generally only if you are extremely successful. That
may not be an issue now, but keep it on your radar for when you do become extremely successful.
As with most other issues in this chapter, effective estate planning is far more complicated than
what is presented here. There are many other strategies and tools you can use – including trusts,
family limited partnerships, donations to charity and others. If – or when – your business is on the
verge of becoming enormously successful and valuable, consider talking to an estate tax expert to
determine what options are available to help you protect this enormous success and value.
STRATEGIES FOR TIMING CASH FLOWS
Are there any other specific tax-related strategies that you should be considering for both
your entrepreneurial business and personal lives?
As you can imagine, there are dozens that you could consider. We will not address them all here.
So we will just focus on one strategy that all families and business might be able to consider: Timing.
Think about when you incur income and expense cash flows. As you know, your business and
personal tax responsibilities are determined on a cash basis. “Cash basis” means that a transaction
becomes income or an expense at the time when cash (or consideration) is transferred. This is in
contrast to “accrual basis,” which many companies use for reporting (not tax) purposes. One
exception to this is depreciation; we recognize depreciation expense over time and not just when
cash is transferred. But for most other transactions, it’s all about when cash changes hands.
Knowing this – that tax responsibilities – are about the timing of the transactions means you may be
able to use timing to decrease your tax liability. How does this work?
Imagine a supplier sends you a bill in early December for work incurred in November. The
supplier wants the cash by January 31. If you wait to pay this until January, you move the
expense to the following year. But if you pay the expense in December, you might get the tax
deduction one full year earlier.
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Now imagine you’re the seller in the previous example. You might prefer receiving the cash in
January rather than December to ostensibly delay taxable revenue by 1 full year.
§ Of course, you do not want to wait to get paid if it means you cannot pay rent or
employees or other obligations. Always put business strategy ahead of tax strategy.
You might be able to cluster expenses or income, at either the business or personal level, to shift
benefits from one year or another.
§ Imagine that you an entrepreneur, you own your own business, and you file your taxes
with your spouse as married-filing-jointly.
§ For 2021, you and your spouse are entitled to a $24,800 standard deduction. This (kind
of) means that the first $24,800 of your Adjusted Gross Income is exempt from federal
income taxes.
§ If you have deductible expenses greater than $24,800, you will choose to itemize your
expenses and get even more benefit. Commonly deductible personal expenses include
mortgage loan interest, some student loan interest, state and local taxes, some medical
expense, some education expenses and many others.
§ One of these others is charitable donations. If you donate to a qualified 501(c)3 non-
profit, you may get a tax deduction for your donation.
§ Imagine you and your spouse plan to donate $15,000 each year to a charity. Also imagine
you have no other deductions to claim.
§ If you donate $15,000 in two consecutive years, you will claim the standard $24,800
deduction each year because $24,800 is greater than $15,000.
§ But what if you donate $30,000 in one year and $0 in the other year? Then you will get
an itemized deduction of $30,000 in one year and $24,800 in the other year. That means
you pay less in taxes across the two years. You may not have the cash flow to swing this,
but, if you can, there are real cash flow savings – to you and your family.
This last example is one simple, hypothetical example of how you can strategically time personal
transactions – that align with your values and goals – to achieve certain tax benefits. It’s simple and
hypothetical, but it’s real. And there are many other similar strategies you can possibly benefit from.
Do not let tax strategies drive the mission and vision of your business. Do not let tax strategies
compromise the underlying goals and dreams of your family.
But do be aware of how different tax strategies, issues and responsibilities can impact the goals and
dreams of both your business and family lives. Failing to meet your responsibilities can derail
everything you’re working for. But employing creative – and legal – approaches to working within
tax law may put a little more cash in your pockets and help nudge you a little closer to achieving
those goals and dreams.
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As we conclude this brief-and-relatively-simple-but-very-dense-and-possibly-overwhelming
discussion on tax policy and tax issues that may impact your life as an entrepreneur, let’s revisit some
of the key issues we started the discussion with.
1. We only owe income taxes on income.
2. File and pay. There are penalties if you do not.
3. Taxes are based on when there are cash transactions.
4. You may need to file personal and business taxes.
5. The discussion that follows is only for U.S. federal tax policy. Most states have their own
policies which will impose taxes in addition to those discussed here. Sorry.
Because this discussion has been brief-and-relatively-simple-but-very-dense-and-possibly-
overwhelming, and because tax policy in the U.S. is enormously complicated, you now know why we
strongly encourage you to consult with attorneys, accountants and tax experts early in your
entrepreneurial life.
As an entrepreneur, nearly every financial decision you make will impact both your business and
personal lives. The more you plan ahead, the more expert advice you receive, and the more you
constantly remind yourself to make personal and professional decisions that align with your values,
goals and dreams, the more successful you will be.
Mark Twain reminds us that the only two certainties in life are death and taxes; you cannot avoid
them, but you can manage the impact they each have. You can plan ahead. So please do plan ahead.
Control your financial future. Own your financial future. Own your personal future.
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What are 5 things you can do in the next month to improve your personal tax situation –
either with your business or in your personal life?
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5. ________________________________________________________________________
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Chapter 8: Your Financial Goals & Dreams
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CHAPTER 8
STRATEGIES FOR YOUR FINANCIAL GOALS & DREAMS
If you can’t fly then run,
If you can’t run then walk,
If you can’t walk then crawl.
But whatever you do,
You have to keep moving forward.
– Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr.
We are going to start this chapter by getting into the philosophy and psychology of personal finance.
Don’t worry – we’re not going to invoke Freud or Descartes; we’re simply going to think about how
you think about money. This philosophical discussion will then help us understand how we deal
with money as individuals – and then we can we that foundation to help us develop a plan for our
financial future.
Let’s start with a couple simple exercises.
In your mind, please define the word “VALUE.”
You probably came up with some definition like “the monetary cost or price of an item” or
“the intrinsic worth of something.”
Now, in your mind, please define the word “VALUES.”
For this word, you probably came up with some definition like “beliefs that have intrinsic
desirability” or “principles and standards deemed to be important, useful, or beneficial.”
You probably came up with slightly different definitions for the two words. For VALUE, you are
probably thinking about dollar amounts and prices; for VALUES, you are probably thinking about
more qualitative aspects.
There probably is a common theme across your definitions – a them relating to worth and
importance, in some sense. But, of course, the two words are the same word!
In finance, we put a higher monetary price on things that are more intrinsically desirable to us.
That’s not an opinion, that’s a fact. You can say you “value” eating healthy, but your actions and
your bank account are saying something different every time you pick up some fast food – at least in
this moment, you are prioritizing tasty, convenient and inexpensive food over food that’s good for
your heart and your waistline. Only you can judge yourself for how you spend your money.
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Money matters – and how we spend our money is an expression of what’s important to us. That is,
every time we make a purchase or swipe a debit card, we are putting a financial value on our
personal values. Your money should be valuable to you – you should only be giving up your valuable
money on items that are important to you….that is, you should only be giving up your valuable
money on items that are more important to you than your money.
So, let’s perform a little self-test to see if that’s what happening.
Check your memory or bank account and fill in the list of 10 purchases you’ve made recently, or 10
times that you’ve given up your valuable money for something more valuable – maybe it’s a phone
bill, maybe it’s a Van Gogh, maybe it’s a burger and fries.
List 10 of your most recent purchases here – include the item and the estimated amount:
(Yes, you did this back in Chapter 1 – but let’s do it again, to refresh and to update if necessary.)
1. ________________________________________________ _____________
2. ________________________________________________ _____________
3. ________________________________________________ _____________
4. ________________________________________________ _____________
5. ________________________________________________ _____________
6. ________________________________________________ _____________
7. ________________________________________________ _____________
8. ________________________________________________ _____________
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9. ________________________________________________ _____________
10. ________________________________________________ _____________
Now take a look at your list. What do you think? Are all of the things you’ve been giving up your
money for intrinsically desirable to you? Are all of the things you’ve been giving up your money for
valuable to you? You’ll get to grade yourself on the following page.
Now let’s put each of these 10 expenditures into one of three different categories:
Category 1 – Essential…stuff you need to live your life (rent, food, gas, phone)
Category 2 – Discretionary…stuff you could live without or change (online subscriptions,
entertainment, travel, clothes, shoes)
Category 3 – Extravagance & Indulgence…stuff that you probably don’t ever need, that
nobody ever needs, and that add little value to your life (multiple magic sets, ferret obedience
training for your ferret, professional bass fishing equipment (for most of us))
After you categorize each of the above 10 expenditures, take a walk or break and then come back to
the list in a little while. Review your list and the categories again – make sure you have each item
with the proper category.
Are you comfortable with how much money you’re spending on Category 2 and 3 items? Most of
(hopefully) do not have very many Category 3 items, but we all have plenty of Category 2 items.
Are you comfortable with how much money you’re spending on Category 2 items?
Do you have any Category 1 items that really could be Category 2 items?
Ø Think about how much you spend on lattes – Is that Category 1 or 2? Or 3?
Ø Think about any recent clothes or shoes purchases – Were those essential?
Ø Think about food – How are you spending money on food? What about alcohol? Is the
food and alcohol you’re buying more important to you than cash? (This is why happy hour
was invented…well, it’s one of the reasons).
SOME FINANCIAL BEHAVIOR MATH
As you know by now, managing your finances is all about trade-offs…managing your finances is
about making sacrifices in the short-term that helps you create opportunities for yourself…
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managing your finances is frequently about delaying gratification and giving up small amounts of
happiness today in exchange for much larger amounts of happiness in the future.
Let’s think about this a different way and put some math to this. For me, one of the most valuable
things I own is my time. I control my time – I decide what I do with my time and how I spend my
time. As the cliché suggests, “time is money;” my time is valuable to me because it creates options,
opportunities, happiness, joy and money. I don’t want to use my limited time doing things that do
not bring me happiness or make my life better.
Like most people and probably like you, I spend a lot of my time working. That is, I sell my time to
my employer. This is my choice. I could quit. But, among other things, I value the paycheck the
University gives me. The paycheck is more valuable to me than my time; I am willing to sell my time
to the University in exchange for my paycheck. And, this paycheck allows me to make all the
Category 1 expenditures I have to plus some Category 2 purchases that bring joy to my life.
I enjoy an occasional mocha latte – and I’m a nerd. I know my mochas are a Category 2 or 3
purchase. Every time I spend $5-6 on a large mocha, my brain instinctively calculates how long I
have to work, how much of my time I have to sell to UL Lafayette, in order to buy that mocha.
So now let’s do the same with your list of purchases above. But first you need to go back to Chapter
2 and recall how much money you currently make per hour of work (or, if you’re unemployed,
estimate how much you’ll earn per hour in the near future). The first thing we’ll do is calculate your
after-tax hourly earnings – after paying federal income taxes (FICA) and all of the other taxes.
Then we do a little math, using assumptions about what each ‘need’ or ‘want’ costs. From there, we
simply estimate how long you have to work to be able to afford each of your above purchases (or
any other purchases).
Chapter 3 was about Budgeting and comparing Income to Expenses. We all know how to do that.
In this chapter, we are focusing on goals, plans, dreams and how you think about money. So, that’s
what we’re doing with this exercise.
The tables on the following pages have already done the math for you, calculating how many hours
you have to work to afford many common needs and wants. Your income might be slightly different
from what’s in the table and some of the costs in the table might not be the same as what you pay.
That’s okay – the tables are just provided to hopefully give some general guidance for everyone. You
can easily do the math for yourself, using your exact income and expense numbers.
Now take a look at the following tables – the first table has different columns for income levels that
might be typical for undergraduate and graduate students, the second table has income levels that
might be more aspirational for most of you in the years following graduation.
As you look through these tables, try to identify some expenses that you have and think about
whether you would classify these expenses as ‘wants’ or ‘needs.’ And then think about how much of
your own time and energy you have to spend to get those ‘wants’ and ‘needs.’
What stands out to you?
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$7.25 $10.00 $12.50 $15.00 $20.00 $30.00
an hour an hour an hour an hour an hour an hour
$14,500 $20,000 $25,000 $30,000 $40,000 $60,000
per year per year per year per year per year per year
$6.16 $8.50 $10.31 $12.00 $15.60 $22.50
Monthly Savings Goal #1 $25 4.06 2.94 2.42 2.08 1.60 1.11
Monthly Savings Goal #2 $150 24.34 17.65 14.55 12.50 9.62 6.67
hours of work hours of work hours of work hours of work hours of work hours of work
Cell Phone Bill - 1 Month $85 13.79 10.00 8.24 7.08 5.45 3.78
Car Insurance - 1 Month $125 20.28 14.71 12.12 10.42 8.01 5.56
Tank of Gas $30 4.87 3.53 2.91 2.50 1.92 1.33
Utility Bill - Winter $25 4.06 2.94 2.42 2.08 1.60 1.11
Utility Bill - Summer $150 24.34 17.65 14.55 12.50 9.62 6.67
Yoga - 1 Class $20 3.25 2.35 1.94 1.67 1.28 0.89
Yoga - 1 Month Membership $55 8.92 6.47 5.33 4.58 3.53 2.44
Air Pods $159 25.80 18.71 15.42 13.25 10.19 7.07
New Phone - Samsung $400 64.91 47.06 38.79 33.33 25.64 17.78
New Phone - iPhone $700 113.59 82.35 67.88 58.33 44.87 31.11
New Computer - HP or Dell $1,000 162.27 117.65 96.97 83.33 64.10 44.44
New Computer - Macbook $2,500 405.68 294.12 242.42 208.33 160.26 111.11
Sorority-Fraternity Dues - 1 Semester $450 73.02 52.94 43.64 37.50 28.85 20.00
Apartment - 1 Month $450 73.02 52.94 43.64 37.50 28.85 20.00
Textbooks - 1 Semester $500 81.14 58.82 48.48 41.67 32.05 22.22
Room & Board - 1 Semester $4,000 649.09 470.59 387.88 333.33 256.41 177.78
Tuition - 1 Semester (In-State) $6,000 973.63 705.88 581.82 500.00 384.62 266.67
hours of work hours of work hours of work hours of work hours of work hours of work
Taco Bell Cheesy Roll-Up $1.00 0.16 0.12 0.10 0.08 0.06 0.04
Coke or Diet Coke, 20-ounces $1.59 0.26 0.19 0.15 0.13 0.10 0.07
Red Bull, 12-ounces $2.59 0.42 0.30 0.25 0.22 0.17 0.12
Starbucks Drip Coffee, grande $2.75 0.45 0.32 0.27 0.23 0.18 0.12
Starbucks Mocha Latte, venti $6.00 0.97 0.71 0.58 0.50 0.38 0.27
Shrimp Poor Boy at Olde Tyme $11 1.78 1.29 1.06 0.91 0.70 0.49
Crawfish Etouffee at Don's $15 2.43 1.76 1.45 1.25 0.96 0.67
Netflix Premium - 1 Month $16 2.60 1.88 1.55 1.33 1.03 0.71
Parking Permit - Campus $40 6.49 4.71 3.88 3.33 2.56 1.78
Parking Citation - Campus $50 8.11 5.88 4.85 4.17 3.21 2.22
Speeding Ticket $100 16.23 11.76 9.70 8.33 6.41 4.44
OWI Ticket $500 81.14 58.82 48.48 41.67 32.05 22.22
Cell Phone Case $35 5.68 4.12 3.39 2.92 2.24 1.56
Video Game - Each $65 10.55 7.65 6.30 5.42 4.17 2.89
Video Game Console $400 64.91 47.06 38.79 33.33 25.64 17.78
New Pair of Crocs $35 5.68 4.12 3.39 2.92 2.24 1.56
New Pair of Air Jordans $175 28.40 20.59 16.97 14.58 11.22 7.78
Extensions - Nails, Acrylic $35 5.68 4.12 3.39 2.92 2.24 1.56
Extensions - Eyelash $160 25.96 18.82 15.52 13.33 10.26 7.11
Extensions - Hair $175 28.40 20.59 16.97 14.58 11.22 7.78
Chevy Silverado Lift Kit $899 145.88 105.76 87.18 74.92 57.63 39.96
Emergency Room Visit $1,300 210.95 152.94 126.06 108.33 83.33 57.78
Used Toyota Camry $15,000 2,434 1,765 1,455 1,250 962 667
New Cadillac Escalade $80,000 12,982 9,412 7,758 6,667 5,128 3,556
New House $250,000 40,568 29,412 24,242 20,833 16,026 11,111
hours of work hours of work hours of work hours of work hours of work hours of work
Your After-Tax Earnings, per hour of work
Annual Salary (2000 hours per year)
Your Hourly Wage
How Many Hours Do You Have to Work to Be Able to Afford All of Your Needs & Wants?
How Much Money Are You Currently Earning?
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$40.00 $50.00 $62.50 $75.00 $125.00 $250.00
an hour an hour an hour an hour an hour an hour
$80,000 $100,000 $125,000 $150,000 $250,000 $500,000
per year per year per year per year per year per year
$34.00 $42.50 $51.56 $60.00 $97.50 $187.50
Monthly Savings Goal #1 $25 0.74 0.59 0.48 0.42 0.26 0.13
Monthly Savings Goal #2 $150 4.41 3.53 2.91 2.50 1.54 0.80
hours of work hours of work hours of work hours of work hours of work hours of work
Cell Phone Bill - 1 Month $85 2.50 2.00 1.65 1.42 0.87 0.45
Car Insurance - 1 Month $125 3.68 2.94 2.42 2.08 1.28 0.67
Tank of Gas $30 0.88 0.71 0.58 0.50 0.31 0.16
Utility Bill - Winter $25 0.74 0.59 0.48 0.42 0.26 0.13
Utility Bill - Summer $150 4.41 3.53 2.91 2.50 1.54 0.80
Yoga - 1 Class $20 0.59 0.47 0.39 0.33 0.21 0.11
Yoga - 1 Month Membership $55 1.62 1.29 1.07 0.92 0.56 0.29
Air Pods $159 4.68 3.74 3.08 2.65 1.63 0.85
New Phone - Samsung $400 11.76 9.41 7.76 6.67 4.10 2.13
New Phone - iPhone $700 20.59 16.47 13.58 11.67 7.18 3.73
New Computer - HP or Dell $1,000 29.41 23.53 19.39 16.67 10.26 5.33
New Computer - Macbook $2,500 73.53 58.82 48.48 41.67 25.64 13.33
Sorority-Fraternity Dues - 1 Semester $450 13.24 10.59 8.73 7.50 4.62 2.40
Apartment - 1 Month $450 13.24 10.59 8.73 7.50 4.62 2.40
Textbooks - 1 Semester $500 14.71 11.76 9.70 8.33 5.13 2.67
Room & Board - 1 Semester $4,000 117.65 94.12 77.58 66.67 41.03 21.33
Tuition - 1 Semester (In-State) $6,000 176.47 141.18 116.36 100.00 61.54 32.00
hours of work hours of work hours of work hours of work hours of work hours of work
Taco Bell Cheesy Roll-Up $1.00 0.03 0.02 0.02 0.02 0.01 0.01
Coke or Diet Coke, 20-ounces $1.59 0.05 0.04 0.03 0.03 0.02 0.01
Red Bull, 12-ounces $2.59 0.08 0.06 0.05 0.04 0.03 0.01
Starbucks Drip Coffee, grande $2.75 0.08 0.06 0.05 0.05 0.03 0.01
Starbucks Mocha Latte, venti $6.00 0.18 0.14 0.12 0.10 0.06 0.03
Shrimp Poor Boy at Olde Tyme $11 0.32 0.26 0.21 0.18 0.11 0.06
Crawfish Etouffee at Don's $15 0.44 0.35 0.29 0.25 0.15 0.08
Netflix Premium - 1 Month $16 0.47 0.38 0.31 0.27 0.16 0.09
Parking Permit - Campus $40 1.18 0.94 0.78 0.67 0.41 0.21
Parking Citation - Campus $50 1.47 1.18 0.97 0.83 0.51 0.27
Speeding Ticket $100 2.94 2.35 1.94 1.67 1.03 0.53
OWI Ticket $500 14.71 11.76 9.70 8.33 5.13 2.67
Cell Phone Case $35 1.03 0.82 0.68 0.58 0.36 0.19
Video Game - Each $65 1.91 1.53 1.26 1.08 0.67 0.35
Video Game Console $400 11.76 9.41 7.76 6.67 4.10 2.13
New Pair of Crocs $35 1.03 0.82 0.68 0.58 0.36 0.19
New Pair of Air Jordans $175 5.15 4.12 3.39 2.92 1.79 0.93
Extensions - Nails, Acrylic $35 1.03 0.82 0.68 0.58 0.36 0.19
Extensions - Eyelash $160 4.71 3.76 3.10 2.67 1.64 0.85
Extensions - Hair $175 5.15 4.12 3.39 2.92 1.79 0.93
Chevy Silverado Lift Kit $899 26.44 21.15 17.44 14.98 9.22 4.79
Emergency Room Visit $1,300 38.24 30.59 25.21 21.67 13.33 6.93
Used Toyota Camry $15,000 441 353 291 250 154 80
New Cadillac Escalade $80,000 2,353 1,882 1,552 1,333 821 427
New House $250,000 7,353 5,882 4,848 4,167 2,564 1,333
hours of work hours of work hours of work hours of work hours of work hours of work
How Many Hours Do You Have to Work to Be Able to Afford All of Your Needs & Wants?
How Much Money Are You Currently Earning?
Your Hourly Wage
Annual Salary (2000 hours per year)
Your After-Tax Earnings, per hour of work
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Let’s go through a simple activity to force you to think about the tradeoffs you are always making –
whether you think about it or not – every single time you give someone some of your hard earned
money for something. Is it worth it? How long do you have to work for each need and each want?
Let’s pick an income column – say, the second column with and hourly wage of $10.00 per hour.
After paying federal and state income taxes, and adjusting for deductions and credits and anything
else, you should probably take home (after tax) between 80-90% of your hourly wage. The above
table assumes that you take 85% of your hourly wage home as cash.
The top of the table presents a couple savings goals – if you commit to paying yourself before you
make any other payments or purchases, you will need to work for just about 3 hours to save $25 and
you will need to work 17.65 hours to save the larger goal of $150. Start small – commit your first 3
hours to saving the $25 and then try to save more if you’re able.
Many of the items in the middle section would be considered ‘needs’ by most college and graduate
students. Some of these – such as tuition and textbooks – are not flexible. Or are they? Could you
save more money by renting textbooks? Could you search for a scholarship – either on campus or
even back home – that could reduce your tuition costs? And for many of the other ‘needs,’ you may
or may not be able to reduce the costs. But a mindful consumer thinks about all of these issues. If
you only go to yoga class twice a month, don’t buy the monthly membership; if you go 3 or more
times a month, don’t pay by the class. Or, better yet, are there free yoga classes you could utilize –
perhaps at the Student Fitness Center or perhaps by creating an online group with friends (just as we
did during Covid-19). It’s your money, value it. Only trade it for things that make your life better…
and after you’ve asked yourself how much time and energy that will cost you. Be creative. Take
control of your money and how you spend it. Do this for both your personal life and your business.
The bottom section is all about your ‘wants.’ You should never purchase any of these without being
fully aware of how much you have to work to afford it.
Ø Is a soda worth 11 minutes of work?
Ø Is a mocha latte worth 43 minutes of work?
Ø Is that crawfish etouffee worth almost 2 hours of work?
Ø How many hours of work are you willing to endure, considering all that you’re giving up to
do it, considering how inconvenient it is, considering what a jerk your boss is…in order to
buy some new shoes, to spend an afternoon at the salon, to play some video games or to
Netflix and chill?
You may have noticed some items in the bottom section that nobody would consider ‘wants.’
Parking tickets, speeding tickets and an OWI citation are certainly not wants – but they are
discretionary. You can avoid them. Most people only incur them because we’re being lazy or
irresponsible. My time is valuable. I would never choose to trade 12 hours of work just to drive a
little faster. I would much rather trade those 12 hours of work for some of the true ‘wants’ on this
list that I really do want. Think about what you’re doing and do what you can to avoid these costs.
Now let’s go back through the list of 10 recent purchases from a couple pages ago – or just scroll
down the preceding table to identify some expenses that you didn’t even think about. Now go
through your list of the table and identify 5 expenses that you could avoid – or at least decrease.
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Fill in the table by listing these 5 expenses and by listing the amount you spent on each. Then, in the
far right column, do the math and figure out how many hours of work you will save simply by
avoiding or reducing that discretionary expense. And then add up the two columns to get Totals.
I remember the first time I did this exercise that I estimated saving over 20 hours. This blew me
away. At the time, I was working about 15 hours a week. This exercise helped me get rid of over a
week of wasted spending – it helped me get rid of spending that wasted about 30% of all the time I
worked in a month. Yes, this means I was wasting way too much money. But it also meant I wasn’t
even thinking about it.
Be mindful. Only you own your money. And only you own your time. Value both your time and
your money as the scarce and precious assets that they are. Take control of your future by owning
your present. If you don’t own today, nobody else is going to do it for you.
List 5 Avoidable Expenses
Money
Saved
Hours of
Work Saved
1. __________________________________________ $ ____________ ____________ hours
2. __________________________________________ $ ____________ ____________ hours
3. __________________________________________ $ ____________ ____________ hours
4. __________________________________________ $ ____________ ____________ hours
5. __________________________________________ $ ____________ ____________ hours
==============================================================
TOTAL SAVINGS $
Money Saved Hours of Work Saved
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WHAT IS MONEY & WHAT DOES IT MEAN TO YOU?
All of you have different financial goals and plans – and all of you have different attitudes towards
money. At this point, you should have lots of tools for helping you think about money and for
helping you plan your financial future. Now, you need to take your personal values and your
financial values and put together a financial plan for your future.
Back in Chapter 2, in the first exercise in this book, you defined what money means to you. Think
back to what you wrote down in that exercise. Now that you’re almost done with this book, how
would you define ‘money?’ Does it mean the same thing it meant back when you first began this
journey in Chapter 2? What does money mean to you know?
Money is a unit of exchange. Take a $20 bill. What can you do with it? You cannot really do
anything with it – except you can trade or exchange it for stuff that others have told you is worth
$20 or less. Money only has value because we can trade it for stuff that is important to us.
Back when people lived in a hunter-gatherer society, there was no money. You took care of yourself,
you survived based only on what you could get and produce for yourself. Then we advanced to a
barter system, where we traded one good for another; you might trade a cow for 25 bushels of
potatoes. This trade defined the value or price of each good, relative to one another. This worked
well enough, but it wasn’t perfect – what if I didn’t want 25 bushels of potatoes?
Thus, we introduced currency as our unit of exchange. Currency – that $20 bill – is issued by
governments and is recognized as legal tender to trade stuff. Now, I can sell my cow for money or I
can buy 25 bushels of potatoes with money, but the logic is the same as it was in the barter system: I
only give up my cash for things that are important to me and that have value to me; I only give up
my $20 bill for things that I value at $20 (or more).
Where did I get that $20 from? For most of us, we get our money from our employers, in exchange
for the work (or value) we provide to our employer. The same logic applies there: I’m willing to sell
my work, time and energy for that $20, so that I can ultimately us that $20 to purchase something
that has value to me – like a bushel of potatoes. Having money as that unit of exchange (currency) is
much more efficient than me trading my work, time and energy directly for a bushel of potatoes.
Money provides me more options for what I trade my work, time and energy for.
SOME MORE BEHAVIOR MATH
Taking ownership of your financial future frequently requires you to be a nerd.
That’s okay – many nerds drive really nice cars. Bill Gates, Rosario Dawson, Elon Musk, Neil de
Grasse Tyson, Tina Fey, Stephen Colbert, Serena Williams, Trevor Noah, Mark Zuckerberg, Oprah
Winfrey, Calvin Broaddus, Jr., Rashida Jones, T. Boone Pickens and Drake – They’re all nerds and
they all have really nice cars (I’m assuming).
So, let’s do some math that may or may not hit home with you.
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Imagine you spend $1.99 every weekday on a soda at a convenience store for some energy.
Ø That’s $9.95 each week.
Ø That’s $39.80 each month.
Ø That’s $517.40 in a year.
Imagine that you spend $5.00 four times a week on a café latte from your favorite coffee shop.
Ø That’s $20 each week.
Ø That’s $80 each month.
Ø That’s $1,040 in a year.
Imagine that you spend $25 every Friday night and another $25 every Saturday night with friends.
Ø That’s $50 each week.
Ø That’s $200 each month.
Ø That’s $2,400 in a year.
What could you do with an additional $517.40 or an additional $2,400 each year?
Think about what you could do – and then think about whether sacrificing your soda or latte fixes
are worth achieving your long-term personal and financial goals. Think about what else you could
sacrifice in your life – habits and patterns that you see in your life that seem to be disconnected from
what you really want to achieve in life.
Sure, little luxuries help make life a little more enjoyable. So maybe you don’t go cold-turkey but you
just cut these habits in half. Getting 3 sodas a week instead of 5 saves you over $200 a year. Getting
two lattes a week – or 5 regular drip coffees – instead of 4 lattes saves you over $500 a year. And
cutting your weekend entertainment expenses in half can save you over $1,000 a year.
Every nerd celebrity listed above achieved their success my making enormous sacrifices early in their
lives or careers – and those relatively small and insignificant sacrifices paid enormous dividends for
them in the long-term. As an entrepreneur, nothing is more important that how you spend your
money – these are investments and they will determine whether or not your business succeeds.
Be a nerd. Do your math. Count all of your expenses. Analyze all of your expenses. And then figure
out where you can make small sacrifices that will have a big impact on your long-term goals.
YOUR VALUES DRIVE YOUR ACTIONS
YOUR BEHAVIOR DRIVES YOUR FINANCIAL FITNESS
Throughout this book, we’ve encouraged you to think about your goals, your dreams and your long-
term plans…over 1-year, 2-years, 5-years and 10-yers. The dreams you have for your future reflect
your individual values.
We began this chapter defining values and discussing how “personal values” and “financial value”
are essentially the same thing – that is, you only exchange money (financial value) for things that you
believe are important or intrinsically desirable (personal values). Your personal values guide your
sense of what is acceptable and what is not acceptable to you.
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There are many, many things that shape your values – your parents, other family members, your
religion, your teachers, pop culture, the things you need and the experiences you have in life. Your
values are uniquely yours – they are highly personal. And your values will determine what you do
with your money and what your financial goals are.
Now let’s work through a brief exercise to connect three very much related items: your personal
values, financial values and the realities of everyday life. There are many things in life that we may
not explicitly think of as representing our values – such as paying bills or having insurance. But of
course, such things do represent our values – think about life without a phone, air conditioning or
car insurance? You value those items because life without them might become very difficult.
Below is a list of 10 items that represent experiences, bills and choices we will all face in our lives.
Go through this list and rank them in terms of their importance to you – with 1 representing the
most important item to you and with 10 representing the least important item to you.
____________ Saving $5,000 to purchase a car in 4 years.
____________ Buying $100 of lottery tickets.
____________ Paying your bills on time to increase your credit score.
____________ Paying $1,000 a month to rent a nicer apartment.
____________ Paying $100 a month for adequate auto insurance.
____________ Giving $100 a month to a family member.
____________ Investing $100 a month in a retirement account.
____________ Giving $100 a month to charity.
____________ Paying $200 for some amazing new shoes.
____________ Opening a savings account and committing to save $50 a month.
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As usual, there are no ‘right’ or ‘wrong’ answers here – although there might be some items above
that should be lower priority for all young people trying to execute a financial plan.
Your rankings above reflect your values – your personal values determine what you place monetary
value on and what your priorities are. Most of us constantly have to make tradeoffs – with how we
spend our time and with how we spend our money. These tradeoffs, or sacrifices, are rarely fun but
they are essential to living your best life and to executing your financial plan.
Most of us do not explicitly connect our personal values with our financial plan. And then, at the
end of the month or when we look for money to execute that plan, we cannot find it. When you
look in your wallet or check your online bank statement and you see that you have much less money
than you think, the cause it likely that you’re not paying attention to your spending – and you’re not
explicitly prioritizing your values.
The bad news is that we all experience times when we have much less month that we thought we’d
have. The good news is that to solution to this problem is staring at you in the mirror.
Change your behavior, change your actions, make sure that what you’re doing with your money
aligns with what you want to be doing with your life.
If you track your spending and behavior as we discussed in Chapters 1 and 2, you’ll get much better
at being mindful of where your money is going. And if you track your spending month-after-month
and year-after-year, you’ll have lots of data to evaluate your behavior (and your expressed values).
As you go through, you’re likely to find patterns that you don’t love….patterns that deviate from
your financial plan and your personal goals:
Are you saving as much money each month as you need to be?
Are you investing as much money each month for the long-term as you want to be?
Are you aware of where your largest cash outflows are going?
Are you aware of where your smallest cash outflows are going? Can you track every penny?
Are you frequently spending money on things that you rarely use – and do not need?
Are you putting expenses on a credit card, thinking you’ll be able to pay it off eventually?
Are you selling items when you’re short on cash?
For most of us, when we get off track with our financial plans it’s because of our spending – it’s
because we’re not monitoring our spending and because we’re prioritizing wants over needs.
As you look back on your spending and on these patterns, analyze yourself. Ask yourself the
following question that may help you explore what behavior or spending alternatives you have.
1. Why am I buying this? Is this a want or a need?
2. What do I hope to gain from this purchase? Do I value this decision?
3. What will I have to give up by taking this action? Is today’s gain worth tomorrow’s loss?
4. What alternative options are available? Do any of the alternatives better fit with your values
and situation?
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YOUR FINANCIAL GOALS
Let’s do a simple thought exercise, with 3 questions that may be very difficult to answer.
Please note that this exercise is not about money or about financial planning. This exercise is simply
about you and your future.
Think about your goals and dreams for your future. What do you want to do? What do you want to
achieve? What do you picture for your future?
In 1 year, I want to: ________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________________
In 5 years, I want to: ________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________________
In 10 years, I want to: ________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________________
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Only you know what you want to do, what your goals are and who you want to be. If you’re like
most people, what you want to do will require you to use money, to use time or to use energy.
Given that money creates options, prudent financial planning will help us achieve those goals.
There are many tools we can use to help connect our goal-setting with our financial planning. Here
are a couple approaches that may work for you.
Goal-Setting & Financial Planning Framework #1
The DECIDE Steps
D
Define your objective
What do you want to achieve?
E
Establish your criteria
Which features must you have?
Which features would you like to have?
C
Choose the promising options
Use your criteria to research and find
two to three potential options.
I
Identify the pros and cons
Compare the features for each option side-
by-side. Make a chart to easily compare.
D
Decide what’s best
Which option meets your criteria and gives
you the most value?
E
Evaluate the results
Honestly assess the outcome. Did you find out
anything afterward that would have changed
your decision?
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Goal-Setting & Financial Planning Framework #2
The SMARTER Goals Guide
S
SPECIFIC
How much money does this goal really require?
What are all of the costs involved?
M
MEASURABLE
How will I know that I have succeeded?
What data can be tracked to measure success?
A
ACHIEVABLE
How can I get the resources to achieve the goal?
Is the goal a reasonable stretch – not too hard, not to easy?
Are my planned actions likely to lead to the goal?
R
RELEVANT
Is this a worthwhile goal for me right now?
Am I willing to commit to this goal, even if it means giving up
other goals?
T
TIME-BOUND
What is the deadline?
What is the order of events?
What needs to happen first, second…last?
E
EVALUATE
What are the checkpoints to know I’m on track?
What might limit my ability to reach this goal?
How could I plan for the possibility of setbacks or barriers?
R
RE-ADJUST
What do I need to do differently?
What can I keep doing the same?
What have I learned to help me with future goals?
You have the best chance of success if you make reasonable goals and allow for flexibility. You want
your goals to be a “just right” challenge – hard enough to push you out of your comfort zone but
easy enough that you have a high chance for success. Start small, celebrate each achievement, and
keep pushing yourself to achieve more.
Goals come in all sizes and time frames. Small goals that you can achieve in the next few months are
easier to visualize. Your longer-term goals – such as a future career or retirement – might not be
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quite as tangible or defined. Think in terms of being on a boat in the sea, seeing an object that’s far
away – the initial image is blurry, but as you keep moving towards it, the details become clearer.
Right now, your money habits may not seem like a big deal, but habits stick. Good habits can help
you achieve your goals and bad habits can take you somewhere that you do not want to go. Don’t
get fooled into thinking that there’s plenty of time to change your habits later. If you find it hard to
make sacrifices and save today, what makes you think it will get easier as you get older?
If you have habits that you would like to change – or if you want to avoid picking up bad habits –
practice making small adjustments now. The more you do it, the easier it becomes.
And think back to Chapter 5 when we talked about saving & investing: making small changes,
sacrifices or investments now can have enormous benefits and payoffs in the future.
Ask yourself: Do your habits align with your goals? Are your habits helping you move closer to the
future that you hope to attain or are they moving you farther away? If they’re not moving you closer
to the future you want, what can you do today to make changes today that will have enormous
benefits and payoffs for you in the future?
CONNECTING YOUR HABITS WITH YOUR GOALS
A little earlier, you identified your financial goals for the next 1, 5 and 10 years.
Now that you’ve spent a little time with the DECIDE and SMARTER frameworks, let’s think about
how you might actually achieve those financial goals.
What money habits would help you achieve the financial goals above?
In the next 1 year, I could build a habit of: ______________________________
__________________________________________________________________
In the next 5 years, I could build a habit of: ______________________________
__________________________________________________________________
In the next 10 years, I could build a habit of: ______________________________
__________________________________________________________________
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How do you stick to your goals? It’s never easy – or, it shouldn’t be easy if your goals are ambitious
and challenging enough. Do you make any New Year’s resolutions? How often do you stick to them
for the full year, or even through January?
We can use some of the same strategies for our financial planning goals that we use with our
resolutions, though hopefully with more success:
Tell other people about your goals.
Post your goals on Instagram, Facebook or Twitter.
Create your own website or blog to track your progress.
Put inspiring pictures and encouraging notes in prominent places – and in places where you
might be most likely to cheat (such as in your car or on your computer).
Ask a friend, partner or family member to check in with you on your progress.
Create a social or online group with friends who are also trying to achieve difficult goals.
Review your goals regularly and adjust them as necessary (but don’t look for excuses).
Anticipate challenges and be mindful about how you address them.
Leave room for flexibility – but not too much room.
If you get off track, get back on. Never give up.
SAVING – ACHIEVING YOUR GOAL TO SAVE MORE
As we’ve discussed throughout this book, much of financial planning revolves around two issues:
spending money vs. saving money. Yes, there’s more to it than that, but if you can take control of
you spending and saving habits, you will be a long way to achieving your goals.
Saving money is simply the act of setting money aside today to use it in the future – maybe you want
to buy a computer, but a carl, plan a vacation, whatever. Most of us cannot pay for these kinds of
large purchases with our monthly income; we have to save over months or years to afford them.
But saving money creates options and opportunities – and that’s what personal and financial goals
are all about.
So, what can you do to save more? Here are a few strategies:
Open a separate savings account with your bank or credit union. Do not try to “save” within
your checking or regular operating account.
Move a set dollar amount or percentage from each paycheck into this savings account before
you pay any other expenses; make saving for your future your most important expense.
Make a game it. Put graphs or posters around your room with your savings from each of the
past 12 months. Challenge yourself to save more next month.
Track your progress. Go back to the budget exercises in Chapter 1 and review them to see
where you could be spending less. And then when you spend less, commit to putting that
savings into your savings account (that is, don’t think of it as found money to be spent).
Use an app that is designed to save more for you.
o Some apps will link to your credit or debit card and round up each purchase and
move the different to savings. If you spend $4.50 on a latte, $5.00 will be deducted
from your checking account and the $0.50 will be moved to your savings account.
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o Some apps turn saving into a lottery-style game, where you receive opportunities to
win cash or prizes; the more you save, the more you can win.
o Simple, Chime, Qapital, Long Game, Dobot, Digit, Tip Yourself, Current and
Acorns are some of the most popular apps that offer a variety of ways to help you
save more, invest more and spend less.
WHAT’S YOUR FINANCIAL FITNESS?
Ø In an emergency, would you be able to get cash quickly?
o Could you find $100 quickly?
o Could you find $300 quickly?
o Could you find $1000 quickly?
Ø What is your progress towards your savings and investing goals?
o What is your progress towards your 1-year, 2-year, 5-year and 10-year life goals?
Ø How do your liabilities compare to your assets?
o Are your liabilities more or less than your assets?
o What liabilities could you pay off by this time next year?
Ø How do your short-term decisions affect your long-term goals?
Ø How do your priorities affect your behavior?
Ø How do your values affect your net worth?
If you are like most people, your financial fitness is not as perfect as you would like it to be – or, as
healthy as you will soon make it. And there’s nothing wrong with that – being a college student or an
entrepreneur are transitional periods, in many ways. You’re giving up income-earning opportunities
in order to spend a lot of money on your education or new business. You’re making a huge
investment in yourself. Your focused on your future….your future job and career opportunities and
your future life adventures. Your financial fitness will get better.
For now, try to come up with 5 things you can do in the next 6 months to improve your financial
fitness. Can you create an emergency fund? Can you decrease your credit card balance? Can you earn
a little extra income? Can you change your spending habits? Can you map out your short- and long-
term goals? Can you save more? What can you do in the next 6 months?
Please come up with these 5 things – or more – on the following page.
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1. _____________________________________________________________
2. _____________________________________________________________
3. _____________________________________________________________
4. _____________________________________________________________
5. _____________________________________________________________
Now, look at this list and explain to yourself – and to your family – why each of these is so
important. Keep this list handy and constantly think about how you can achieve each of these goals.
And constantly remind yourself how much better off – personally and emotionally, not necessarily
financially – when you accomplish each of these financial fitness goals.
The purpose of these goals – and this book – is to help you own your future and to help you achieve
your goals and your dreams. Just as you’ve done by investing in college to change your life and to
create new opportunities for you and your family, invest in improving your financial fitness can
similarly change your life.
Financial planning requires effort, intentionality and commitment. Just as your degree will do for
you and your family, having a financial plan and pursuing that plan will create options, opportunities,
happiness and peace of mind for you and for your future. Your future self – and your family – will
thank you. Celebrate your successes and enjoy living your dreams.
There is freedom waiting for you,
On the breezes of the sky,
And you ask 'What if I fall?'
Oh but my darling,
What if you fly?
– Erin Hanson
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Chapter 8 Summary
Your Financial Goals & Dreams
In the space below, please write down 5 things you learned in this chapter that will help you take
greater ownership of your financial future in order to achieve your goals and dreams.
1. _____________________________________________________________
2. _____________________________________________________________
3. _____________________________________________________________
4. _____________________________________________________________
5. _____________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
My Pledge to My Future Self:
I hereby pledge to take control of my financial future. I hereby pledge to my future self to regularly
monitor my financial situation to make sure that what I am doing with my money aligns with my
personal values, my financial goals and my dreams for creating a better life for myself.
______________________________________ ___________________________
Signature Date
______________________________________________________________________________
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SPACE FOR NOTES, THOUGHTS, PRACTICE & PLANNING
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THE STUDENT ADVICE WALL
Financial Planning & Financial Health
Suggestions from Other Students
I love being a professor for many reasons.
One of those reasons is that I get to spend my days learning from my brilliant, creative and
ambitious students. In the following few pages, you get to learn from them, too.
These pages include tips and advice from my students – from first-year undergraduate students to
graduate- and executive-level students. Read them, enjoy them, and embrace and practice
those ideas that you think can help you the most.
Make a plan. Weekly, Monthly, Yearly, Five Year Plan. Schedule out your plan and
how to achieve them. Invest early for your future. Don't be afraid of failure.
Keep pressing on.
Check your bank account(s) every three days. Make sure to have a checking and a
savings account. If you have $50 in your checking account, assume you only
have $25. If you have $200, assume you only have $100. This sets you up to
put money into savings every month. Calculate four months’ worth of savings
and make that your first savings goal. While saving your four months'
expenses, learn about how to open an IRA.
Make a monthly budget and get a planner.
Start investing early. Make compound interest be your friend.
Make buying a home a priority turn your rent payments into investments.
Always have a savings account for emergencies and unforeseen problems.
Pay yourself first. Pay your bills second. Spend on discretionary and impulse items
last.
Be mindful about taking out loans. Only borrow what you absolutely need. And then
have a clear plan for repaying your loans.
Investing will protect your money against inflation and will help you build a nest
egg that can lead to many opportunities once you graduate.
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Pay yourself first.
Save all $1 and $5 bills. Only spend $10 and larger bills. This will automatically
create a savings account with your $1 and $5 bills, but it can also create
discipline and teach you that you may not need to spend as much as you
think.
Do the math. Before buying something, calculate the price-per-use. If it’s an item you
won’t use much, try to spend as little as possible.
I try to save at least 10% of every paycheck.
The sooner you start investing for your future, the more money you’ll have to retire
with or use later in life.
Live within your means. I know, it sounds obvious, but I’m always surprised at how
many people do not.
If you’re working at a place that offers a 401(k) or 403(b) retirement plan, always
try to get the maximum matching contribution that your employer offers.
Recognize the connections between spending, saving and investing and your
emotions. Don’t let emotions drive your spending. Do let values and goals drive
your saving and investing.
Find a personal desire or driver that gets you excited about financial planning. Make
it a game. Reward yourself. Compete with yourself.
Prioritize your spending. Make a budget with specific items and classify them all
as needs and wants.
Get a credit card. It is essential to building credit. It can help you track your
spending. But never forget it is not free money.
Don’t be scared. The more you face financial planning and focus on your goals, the
less you will be stressed or intimidated by finances.
Be cautious of food spending. Grocery bills can get very high very quickly. And
eating healthy foods can be more expensive than eating junk. Always have a
plan and be mindful of what you are spending.
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Never throw out food. You wouldn’t throw cash into the trash, why do the same with
food?
Use spreadsheets to create graphs and charts that can help you visually appreciate
your spending and financial planning. We all get sick of looking at numbers
all the time. Pictures can help.
Avoid brand name items. For most of your purchases, generic and store-name items
are just as good (and for some items, they are identical). Don’t pay for the
brand name and all of its fancy advertising.
Create separate bank accounts for different purposes bills, personal purchases,
emergency funds, savings goals.
Invest in experiences such as travel and time with friends and family.
When you’re in your early 20s, you have the fewest responsibilities you will ever have.
This is the time to HUSTLE! Work. Save. Invest. Sacrifice now and you will
reap the benefits later.
Do not buy a new car. Always buy a used car. And then drive it until the wheels fall
off.
Budgeting does not have to be complicated. Just start with Income - Expenses. Then
you can get more complicated, but do not let it intimidate you.
Use free apps, such as Mint. They can help you figure out which expenses are not
necessary.
Always read the fine print on debt. Understand how interest rates work. Even if you
pay off a portion of your credit card balance, you may be charged interest on
the full amount. Make sure you know what you are signing up for.
Pay yourself first and pay your bills second.
Have mad money. Treat yourself. Include this in your budget. Set money aside for it.
If you budget for impulse spending, then you will likely stick to that budget
and you will feel less guilty about treating yourself because it was always part
of your plan.
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Think about retirement now. Think about what it will take you to retire as early as
possible. It might feel far away now, but thinking about retirement will help
you understand how you want to live your life and what’s important to you.
If you get tips at work, allocate your tips differently. Maybe use your cash tips for
your credit cards. And then use your paycheck on essentials.
Get a Roth IRA as soon as possible.
Start saving for retirement as soon as possible. Understand what you will need in
retirement such as health care, and understand what you will need to be able
to have the retirement you want.
Think long-term.
Save. Do not be intimidated by the fancy examples that use big numbers. The book
may suggest saving $1,000 a month. Ignore that if you want. Saving $10 a
month has huge benefits. Have discipline and focus on your own situation.
Debt can snowball into a nightmare if you are not careful. This is why I use my
credit card as a debit card always paying the balance in full each month.
I wish someone had explained credit to me sooner. Make sure you understand the costs
you are undertaking, but also understand the benefits of building a credit
history as soon as possible.
When you pay yourself first, you won’t miss a penny. Do it.
When you put money away for retirement, you won’t miss a penny. Do it.
Your spending habits will change over time, and they will continue to change. Make
sure you account for these changes in your long-term planning.
Eat in as much as you can. Learn to cook. I can spend $20 on a whole week’s worth of
food, which is the same I might spend on one meal out.
At some point in college, I convinced myself that paying for something in cash
wasn’t technically spending money because the balance in my checking
account did not change. I justified a bunch of silly purchases with this logic
and I wasted a ton of money because of this.
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Make a budget. Keep track of how much spend and exactly where it goes.
Treat a credit card like a debit card, meaning only spend money that’s already in
your account. Pay it off every month and then treat yourself to some fun
with the points or rewards you earn.
Think of budgeting as a tool to take control of your finances. It’s not a tool to punish
you it’s a tool to empower you.
What is the interest rate you’re earning on your savings? 0.0%? 0.1%? That’s not
much it’s less than inflation. Saving is important, but investing and
potentially earning much higher interest rates is the key to building wealth.
A few years ago, I wish I would have looked into cryptocurrency as an investment
option. Hindsight is always 20/20, but be open to considering lots of different
investment options.
Find a mentor. Nobody knows everything not even you. So open yourself up to
talking to others and learning from others. And they will learn from you, too.
Talk to you boyfriend/girlfriend/spouse/partner about money. Talk about your goals
and your values. It can be very good for your financial planning but it will
be way, way, way better for your relationship. Trust me!
Never stop learning, never stop growing. Your situation will change, and the options
available to you will change, too. Always stay open-minded about what you
want and how you can achieve it.
Be strategic about using zero-interest credit cards and promotions and then
transfer to lower rate cards when necessary.
It took me two years to pay off my debt; and it was an enormous weight off my
shoulders once it was gone.
How badly do you really need that 4-wheeler or ATV if you don’t own a house yet?
Know what your goals are and make sure you’re spending aligns with those.
Peer pressure is tough. But don’t let peer pressure dictate your spending. The earlier
your take ownership of your own situation and spending, the longer and more
you will reap the benefits.
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For saving: eating out on weekdays adds up, try to maintain it to only weekends.
Brew your own coffee.
Cook. Buying food on campus is expensive.
Always eat before going shopping or out to drink with friends. This will reduce the
temptation to impulse spend on food.
If you are on a tight budget you need to resist the urge to buy things you want but do
not need.
It can be ok to put 1 or 2 little charges on your credit card to build up credit but please
do not rely on it. Set it to automatic draft so that you never forget a payment.
Don’t overbook your schedules. Too many activities and obligations can be stressful
and distracting. And stress can lead you to spend money without thinking.
Use your money wisely - notice I said “use” and not “spend”. The word “use” is to
represent money as a tool, not anything else; because that’s all money is, a
tool. Pay attention to the words you speak and the thoughts you believe about
this. It could lead you to either Financial Abundance or Financial Poverty. If
you understand this knowledge, you will go a long way.
Look for part-time jobs that offer benefits/401-k plans. Part-Time Bank teller will
help grasp concepts of personal finance!
Start a low limit credit card to begin establishing credit.
Open a Fidelity Investment account and deposit small amounts and invest as you
can.
Graduate School is expensive especially as a first-time graduate in your family. I
would try to save money so you don't have to work and go to school. I worked
all through undergrad and masters and it really puts a strain on schoolwork.
If I could have not worked it would have been a better experience!
Take out student loans if you see yourself struggling to pay bills. My senior year in
undergrad I didn't have to work because I saved enough to take the year off
from work. I had less stress and could focus more on schoolwork and making
connections. Having time for my priorities was invaluable.
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Time management! Many grad students can't handle the school load because they
have bad time management. If you work and attend grad school, you need to be
on top of your game. It requires sacrifices to be made, but it pays off in the end!
Research student loans BEFORE signing the papers! Many students are first time
graduate students in their family and don't know how to pay for school or
what options are available. See what grants and scholarships you quality for.
Be smart with your money, no matter the circumstances of how you are paying for
graduate school, it is a privilege to attend a university and you owe it to
yourself to wisely manage your funds.
If you have a job, make sure to save. Life starts to come to you really fast as you
approach graduation, so be prepared by saving early.
Financial responsibilities will only get larger from the time you start grad school, so
take advantage of your current situation and save for your future.
Make sure to know who your financial advisor is and make sure they know you.
Regularly keep in contact with them so you know what is going on with your
payments for scholarships and other things.
Save money for trips. Graduate school can be a great time to expand your experience
and network by traveling for conferences, internships, and other events.
Make a budget before you start grad school and adjust it each semester as you know
better what your needs are.
Set aside an emergency fund for emergencies and a separate “fun” money fund for
when a festival or cool concert is coming to town! Do not mix the two funds.
Track your spending. Decide how much you want to spend before you go out for the
night or go shopping. Knowing an amount to stick to will help keep you
accountable.
If you have a savings account, don’t dip into it just because you want to. Know the
value of leaving your savings untouched unless you absolutely need it.
Use a debit card instead of a credit card.
Always have 3-6x your monthly living expenses in your savings account.
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Know how to budget well I knew nothing when I was a student and it really hurt
me.
Limit the number of meals that you eat out.
When going out with friends, eat at home first and only get a drink. Make going out
about being with your friends and not about spending money on food.
Make a budget and don’t online shop too much…at least not until the end of the
month.
Always buy the experience.
Start a Roth IRA in grad school if you can.
How to budget I erred on the side of not buying anything because I was scared I
would run out.
Communicate openly and clearly with your spouses, partners and family so there are
no surprises. You are all in this grad school experience together share both the
good news and the bad news about financial issues.
Realize that your parents, family and friends don’t always know everything about
finance. Help them learn about your situation so you can all benefit.
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APPENDIX
Some Select Activities from the Book For You to Practice
What is money? What does money mean to you?
Write down as many words, phrases, song lyrics, tweets, feelings, or stories that help define what
money means to you.
___________________________________________________________________
___________________________________________________________________
___________________________________________________________________
___________________________________________________________________
___________________________________________________________________
___________________________________________________________________
___________________________________________________________________
___________________________________________________________________
___________________________________________________________________
___________________________________________________________________
Now that you have this list, go through it and put a + next to the items that elicit a positive feeling
or sentiment and a next to the items that elicit a negative feeling or sentiment.
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Imagine that a friend gave you a Lotto Scratch-Off ticket. And you won $500.
What would you do with that $500? Write down up to 3 things you would do with your winnings:
1. ________________________________________________
2. ________________________________________________
3. ________________________________________________
Now, let’s say your Lotto ticket was a much, much bigger winner. This time you won $100,000.
What would you do with that $100,000? Write down up to 3 things you would do with this bounty:
1. ________________________________________________
2. ________________________________________________
3. ________________________________________________
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Activity #1 – You choose to spend 3 hours researching a new business practice.
Benefits: __________________________________________________
__________________________________________________
Costs: __________________________________________________
__________________________________________________
Activity #2 – You choose to spend 1 hour exercising at the gym.
Benefits: __________________________________________________
__________________________________________________
Costs: __________________________________________________
__________________________________________________
Activity #3 – You choose to spend 4 hours on the weekend volunteering at the animal shelter.
Benefits: __________________________________________________
__________________________________________________
Costs: __________________________________________________
__________________________________________________
Appendix Select Activities from the Book
Page 220 of 255
We’ve provided you with a list of 12 common values. In the space below the list, add 4 more that
you think are important. Then, from this full list of 16 values, rank them. Give the value that’s most
important to you a 1 and give the value that’s least important to you a 16.
__________ Education
__________ Friends
__________ Charity
__________ Travel
__________ Freedom
__________ Religion
__________ Family
__________ Saving for the future
__________ Personal appearance
__________ Entertainment
__________ Creativity
__________ Physical fitness
__________ ___________________________
__________ ___________________________
__________ ___________________________
__________ ___________________________
Now that you have this list of 16 values, take a minute to think how these values might impact your
spending and your financial planning.
What can you do to ensure your planning is aligned with your values?
Appendix Select Activities from the Book
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Scenario #1 – A store you love is going out of business and has a great deal on an item that
you really like…but that you don’t need right now.
Do you buy it? YES NO
Scenario #2 – A family member offers to either put a $5,000 down payment on a new car
for you, after which you’ll make the required loan payments, or deposit $5,000 into your
college fund.
What do you choose? NEW CAR COLLEGE FUND
Scenario #3 – You are saving up to buy a new computer, but your friends invite you on a
spring break trip that will wipe out your computer savings.
What do you choose? COMPUTER TRIP
Scenario #4 – You usually donate $25 a month to a local charity in additional to putting $25
a month into a savings account. But this month you only have $25 to use.
What do you do? CHARITY SAVINGS
Appendix Select Activities from the Book
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Imagine that you were able to save $100 next year – What would you do with that $100?
1. ________________________________________________
2. ________________________________________________
3. ________________________________________________
Imagine that you were able to save $1,000 next year – What would you do with that $1,000?
1. ________________________________________________
2. ________________________________________________
3. ________________________________________________
Imagine that you were able to save $10,000 next year – What would you do with that $10,000?
1. ________________________________________________
2. ________________________________________________
3. ________________________________________________
Appendix Select Activities from the Book
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In the last exercise in Chapter 2, you came up with three lists of what you would do with $100, with
$1,000 and with $10,000. Take a minute to review those previous lists. Now pick one item from
those lists to think about here. And, then fill in the following blanks:
In the next year, I want to save $ __________ in order to _______________________
____________________________________________________________________.
____________________________________________________________________.
Now, how are you going to save this money?
In the next year, I want to save $ __________ by doing the following: _____________
____________________________________________________________________
____________________________________________________________________.
____________________________________________________________________
____________________________________________________________________.
Appendix Select Activities from the Book
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Let’s think about your next 2-3 years. List the income you plan on earning over the next 2-3 years in
the top list. And list the possible income you could earn in the second list – be creative.
PLANNED INCOME
1. __________________________________________________________
2. __________________________________________________________
3. __________________________________________________________
4. __________________________________________________________
5. __________________________________________________________
POSSBILE INCOME
1. __________________________________________________________
2. __________________________________________________________
3. __________________________________________________________
4. __________________________________________________________
5. __________________________________________________________
Appendix Select Activities from the Book
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Think back to all the purchases you’ve made over the past 12 months – and list the 5 biggest
purchases you’ve made or expenses you’ve incurred.
What are the 5 largest purchases you’ve made or expenses you’ve incurred in the past year?
1. ________________________________________________ _____________
2. ________________________________________________ _____________
3. ________________________________________________ _____________
4. ________________________________________________ _____________
5. ________________________________________________ _____________
Now go back through this list and make sure that each of these purchases aligns with both your
personal values and your future goals.
Do they?
If not, what can you do to get back on track?
Appendix Select Activities from the Book
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Take a look at the follow list of money-saving ideas and circle the ones that you realistically think
you could do in the next 3-6 months.
Move to a better bank account
Give up your television
Give up a subscription
Sign up for free customer loyalty programs
Always make a shopping list
Stop eating out
Shop at a thrift store
Shop at a yard sale
Stop buying new video games
Cut your coffee purchases in half
Drink more water
Avoid convenience stores
Avoid fast food
Avoid alcohol
Quit smoking
Buy food and staples in bulk
Make a gift for friend or family member
No online purchases
Cancel unused memberships
Share your dreams with a close friend
Shop for new car insurance
Spend your free time volunteering
Avoid the mall
Only walk to places within 1 mile
Cancel magazine subscriptions
Eat breakfast
Eat leftovers
Bring your lunch to work or school
Only go to free entertainment events
Take public transportation
Carpool
Pack food for road trips
Eliminate cell phone services
Eliminate cable services
Spend 10 hours a week at the library
Learn about employee offers at work
Only drive within 3 MPH of the speed
limit
Drive a different route to work
Eat less meat
Use coupons
Exercise more
Pay bills online through your ban
Organize a potluck dinner with friends
Appendix Select Activities from the Book
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For now, look through all of the items above that you have circled and identify the 5 items that you
are most likely to achieve in the next 3-6 months. Write down what these 5 items are and write
down how much you’ll be able to save each month. Once you have your list and have added up your
monthly savings, make a pledge to yourself. Make this a commitment – a commitment to your
future self that you are pledging to invest in your future self, starting now.
1. ________________________________________________ _____________
2. ________________________________________________ _____________
3. ________________________________________________ _____________
4. ________________________________________________ _____________
5. ________________________________________________ _____________
=======================================================
TOTAL MONTHLY SAVINGS $
Appendix Select Activities from the Book
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EXAMPLE
THIS
MONTH
THIS
YEAR
INCOME
Job #1 - 1,000.00$
Job #2 - 100.00
Job #2 - 75.00
Other - 30.00
Other - -
Other - -
TOTAL INCOME 1,205.00$
EXPENSES
Savings 25.00$
Rent or Housing 400.00
School - Tuition & Fees 150.00
School Supplies 50.00
Phone Bill 100.00
Insurance - Car 100.00
Insurance - Home 25.00
Insurance - Health -
Food - Grocery 200.00
Food - Restaurants 50.00
Coffee 25.00
Subscription #1 19.99
Subscription #2 9.99
Subscription #3 9.99
Clothing & Shoes -
Entertainment (music, movies) 25.00
Gym, Yoga, Fitness -
Other - -
Other - -
Other - -
TOTAL EXPENSES 1,189.97$
15.03$
40.03$
NET CASH FLOW or
ADDITIONAL SAVINGS
TOTAL CHANGE IN NET WORTH or
TOTAL CONTRIBUTION TO SAVINGS
(Add "Savings" to "Net Cash Flow")
Appendix Select Activities from the Book
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2 YEARS
FROM NOW
5 YEARS
FROM NOW
10 YEARS
FROM NOW
INCOME
Job #1 -
Job #2 -
Job #2 -
Other -
Other -
Other -
TOTAL INCOME
EXPENSES
Savings
Rent or Housing
School - Tuition & Fees
School Supplies
Phone Bill
Insurance - Car
Insurance - Home
Insurance - Health
Food - Grocery
Food - Restaurants
Coffee
Subscription #1
Subscription #2
Subscription #3
Clothing & Shoes
Entertainment (music, movies)
Gym, Yoga, Fitness
Other -
Other -
Other -
TOTAL EXPENSES
NET CASH FLOW or
ADDITIONAL SAVINGS
TOTAL CHANGE IN NET WORTH or
TOTAL CONTRIBUTION TO SAVINGS
(Add "Savings" to "Net Cash Flow")
Appendix Select Activities from the Book
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JANUARY FEBRUARY MARCH
INCOME
Job #1 -
Job #2 -
Job #2 -
Other -
Other -
Other -
TOTAL INCOME
EXPENSES
Savings
Rent or Housing
School - Tuition & Fees
School Supplies
Phone Bill
Insurance - Car
Insurance - Home
Insurance - Health
Food - Grocery
Food - Restaurants
Coffee
Subscription #1
Subscription #2
Subscription #3
Clothing & Shoes
Entertainment (music, movies)
Gym, Yoga, Fitness
Other -
Other -
Other -
TOTAL EXPENSES
NET CASH FLOW or
ADDITIONAL SAVINGS
TOTAL CHANGE IN NET WORTH or
TOTAL CONTRIBUTION TO SAVINGS
(Add "Savings" to "Net Cash Flow")
Appendix Select Activities from the Book
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APRIL MAY JUNE
INCOME
Job #1 -
Job #2 -
Job #2 -
Other -
Other -
Other -
TOTAL INCOME
EXPENSES
Savings
Rent or Housing
School - Tuition & Fees
School Supplies
Phone Bill
Insurance - Car
Insurance - Home
Insurance - Health
Food - Grocery
Food - Restaurants
Coffee
Subscription #1
Subscription #2
Subscription #3
Clothing & Shoes
Entertainment (music, movies)
Gym, Yoga, Fitness
Other -
Other -
Other -
TOTAL EXPENSES
NET CASH FLOW or
ADDITIONAL SAVINGS
TOTAL CHANGE IN NET WORTH or
TOTAL CONTRIBUTION TO SAVINGS
(Add "Savings" to "Net Cash Flow")
Appendix Select Activities from the Book
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JULY AUGUST SEPTEMBER
INCOME
Job #1 -
Job #2 -
Job #2 -
Other -
Other -
Other -
TOTAL INCOME
EXPENSES
Savings
Rent or Housing
School - Tuition & Fees
School Supplies
Phone Bill
Insurance - Car
Insurance - Home
Insurance - Health
Food - Grocery
Food - Restaurants
Coffee
Subscription #1
Subscription #2
Subscription #3
Clothing & Shoes
Entertainment (music, movies)
Gym, Yoga, Fitness
Other -
Other -
Other -
TOTAL EXPENSES
NET CASH FLOW or
ADDITIONAL SAVINGS
TOTAL CHANGE IN NET WORTH or
TOTAL CONTRIBUTION TO SAVINGS
(Add "Savings" to "Net Cash Flow")
Appendix Select Activities from the Book
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OCTOBE R NOVEMBER DECEMBER
INCOME
Job #1 -
Job #2 -
Job #2 -
Other -
Other -
Other -
TOTAL INCOME
EXPENSES
Savings
Rent or Housing
School - Tuition & Fees
School Supplies
Phone Bill
Insurance - Car
Insurance - Home
Insurance - Health
Food - Grocery
Food - Restaurants
Coffee
Subscription #1
Subscription #2
Subscription #3
Clothing & Shoes
Entertainment (music, movies)
Gym, Yoga, Fitness
Other -
Other -
Other -
TOTAL EXPENSES
NET CASH FLOW or
ADDITIONAL SAVINGS
TOTAL CHANGE IN NET WORTH or
TOTAL CONTRIBUTION TO SAVINGS
(Add "Savings" to "Net Cash Flow")
Appendix Select Activities from the Book
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What do you own?
What are your assets – including tangible and personal use assets (like cars and phones) and financial
assets (like checking, savings and investment accounts)?
YOUR TANGIBLE & FINANCIAL ASSETS
1. ________________________________________________ _____________
2. ________________________________________________ _____________
3. ________________________________________________ _____________
4. ________________________________________________ _____________
5. ________________________________________________ _____________
=======================================================
YOUR TOTAL ASSETS $
Appendix Select Activities from the Book
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What do you owe?
What are your 5 largest financial obligations (student loan, car loan, next month’s bills, anything)?
YOUR SHORT-TERM & LONG-TERM LIABILITIES
1. ________________________________________________ _____________
2. ________________________________________________ _____________
3. ________________________________________________ _____________
4. ________________________________________________ _____________
5. ________________________________________________ _____________
=======================================================
YOUR TOTAL LIABILITIES $
Appendix Select Activities from the Book
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ASSETS LIABILITIES
Checking Account $ Credit Cards $
Savings Account $
Other Bank Accounts or CDs $ Auto Loans $
Student Loans $
Investments $ Property Loans $
Retirement Funds $ Other Loans $
Personal Property Total Liabilities $
(Value is market value, not original cost)
Home $
Cars or Trucks $
Jewelry $
Household Items $
Computer, Phone & Technology $ + Total Assets $
Musical Equipment $
Clothing & Shoes $ - Total Liabilities $
Other Personal Property $
Current Net Worth $
Total Assets $
YOUR NET WORTH
Statement of Financial Position
aka Personal Balance Sheet
NET WORTH & EQUITY
Appendix Select Activities from the Book
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In the space below, please write down 10 commitments that you will be willing and able to make
over the next 12 months to improve your income and expense habits.
1. _____________________________________________________________
2. _____________________________________________________________
3. _____________________________________________________________
4. _____________________________________________________________
5. _____________________________________________________________
6. _____________________________________________________________
7. _____________________________________________________________
8. _____________________________________________________________
9. _____________________________________________________________
10. _____________________________________________________________
Appendix Select Activities from the Book
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Back in Chapter 2, we asked you what you would do if you won the lottery. Let’s try that exercise
again, but now with different numbers and different options.
Imagine that a friend gave you a Lotto Scratch-Off ticket. And you won $10,000.
What would you do with that $10,000? Please rank the following 4 things:
1. Spend the $10,000 on a trip around the world ___________
2. Spend the $10,000 on a home entertainment system ___________
3. Put all $10,000 in a savings or investment account ___________
4. Pay of $10,000 of high-interest rate debt ___________
Now let’s look at that $10,000 of debt that you’re paying off a little more closely:
Imagine that a friend gave you a Lotto Scratch-Off ticket. And you won $10,000.
You’ve decided you’re going to pay off $10,000 of debt with your winnings. Very smart.
Which debt would you pay off first? Which debt would you pay off last? Please rank the following 4
types of debt in terms of which you would pay off first:
1. Student loan debt with an annual interest rate of 5% ___________
2. Credit card debt with an annual interest rate of 18.99% ___________
3. A finance company or pawn shop loan charging 3% per month ___________
4. An auto loan with an annual interest rate of 7.50% ___________
Appendix Select Activities from the Book
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In the space below, write down 5-10 things you can do over the next 1-2 years to improve how you
use debt and how you borrow money in order to achieve your goals and dreams.
1. _____________________________________________________________
2. _____________________________________________________________
3. _____________________________________________________________
4. _____________________________________________________________
5. _____________________________________________________________
6. _____________________________________________________________
7. _____________________________________________________________
8. _____________________________________________________________
9. _____________________________________________________________
10. _____________________________________________________________
Appendix Select Activities from the Book
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Let’s re-visit a few quiz questions – these are easy questions because there’s not really ‘right’ or
‘wrong’ answers; please just pick the answer you prefer based on your own situation or preferences.
#1 Which would you rather we give you:
(A) $100 in cash today
(B) $100 in cash in 12 months
#2 Which would you rather we give you:
(A) $100 in cash today
(B) $500 in cash in 12 months
#3 Which would you rather we give you:
(A) $100 in cash today
(B) $120 in cash in 12 months
#4 Which would you rather we give you:
(A) $1,000,000 in cash today
(B) $1,000,000 in cash in 12 months
#5 Which would you rather we give you:
(A) $1,000,000 in cash today
(B) $5,000,000 in cash in 12 months
#6 Which would you rather we give you:
(A) $1,000,000 in cash today
(B) $1,200,000 in cash in 12 months
Appendix Select Activities from the Book
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Imagine that you save $1,000 a year for the next 40 years. You deposit this money in a traditional
savings account at a bank. The bank pays you 3% annual interest on your savings. How much
do you have in your account when you retire in 40 years?
(A) $ 75,401
(B) $ 377,006
(C) $ 442,593
(D) $ 2,212,963
Imagine that you save $1,000 a year for the next 40 years. You decide to invest it in a well-
diversified stock market fund. This fund will earn an average annual return of 10%. How much
do you have in your account when you retire in 40 years?
(A) $ 75,401
(B) $ 377,006
(C) $ 442,593
(D) $ 2,212,963
Imagine that you save $5,000 a year for the next 40 years. You deposit this money in a traditional
savings account at a bank. The bank pays you 3% annual interest on your savings. How much
do you have in your account when you retire in 40 years?
(A) $ 75,401
(B) $ 377,006
(C) $ 442,593
(D) $ 2,212,963
Imagine that you save $5,000 a year for the next 40 years. You decide to invest it in a well-
diversified stock market fund. This fund will earn an average annual return of 10%. How much
do you have in your account when you retire in 40 years?
(A) $ 75,401
(B) $ 377,006
(C) $ 442,593
(D) $ 2,212,963
Appendix Select Activities from the Book
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Question #1
Imagine I have a silver dollar that I’m going to flip, and I make you this offer:
(A) I will give you $100 cash.
(B) If the silver dollar comes up heads, I’ll give you $200.
But, if the silver dollar comes up tails, I won’t give you anything.
Which do you choose: (A) or (B)?
Question #2
Imagine I have a silver dollar that I’m going to flip, and I make you this offer:
(A) I will give you $10,000 cash.
(B) If the silver dollar comes up heads, I’ll give you $20,000.
But, if the silver dollar comes up tails, I won’t give you anything.
Which do you choose: (A) or (B)?
Question #3
Imagine I have a silver dollar that I’m going to flip, and I make you this offer:
(A) I will give you $100 cash.
(B) If the silver dollar comes up heads, I’ll give you $220.
But, if the silver dollar comes up tails, I won’t give you anything.
Which do you choose: (A) or (B)?
Appendix Select Activities from the Book
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Strongly
Agree
Agree Neutral Disagree
Strongly
Disagree
Earning a high long-term total return that will
allow my investments to grow faster than the
inflation rate is one of my most important
objectives.
5 4 3 2 1
I would like an investment that provides me with
an opportunity to defer paying taxes on any gains
far into the future.
5 4 3 2 1
I do not need my investments to provide a large
amount of current income.
5 4 3 2 1
I am willing to tolerate some sharp down-swings
on my investments in order to seek a potentially
higher return than would normally be expected
from more stable investments.
5 4 3 2 1
I am willing to risk a short-term loss in return for a
potentially higher long-run rate of return.
5 4 3 2 1
I am financially able to accept a low level of
liquidity in my portfolio; I can wait for several
years before needing cash from my investments.
5 4 3 2 1
Total Score: 6-10 Very low tolerance for risk - find safe, low return investments.
Total Score: 11-15 Moderately low tolerance for risk - find safe but balanced investments
Total Score: 16-20 Balanced tolerance for risk - balance safe + risky investments
Total Score: 21-25 Moderately high tolerance for risk - find risky but balanced investments
Total Score: 26-30 Very high tolerance for risk - find risky, high potential return investments
Global Portfolio Allocation Scoring System (PASS) for Individual Investors
Scoring System:
Higher scores are associated with higher risk tolerance.
Lower scores are associated with lower risk tolerance.
Appendix Select Activities from the Book
Page 244 of 255
Write down 5-10 things you can do over the next 1-2 years to improve how much money you save
or what you can do to begin investing, even if you only have a few dollars to invest.
1. _____________________________________________________________
2. _____________________________________________________________
3. _____________________________________________________________
4. _____________________________________________________________
5. _____________________________________________________________
6. _____________________________________________________________
7. _____________________________________________________________
8. _____________________________________________________________
9. _____________________________________________________________
10. _____________________________________________________________
Appendix Select Activities from the Book
Page 245 of 255
What can you do to get your automobile insurance premium amount lower? How can you get this
fixed expense lower, without sacrificing the essential coverage and flexibility that insurance
provides? Write down 5 activities that you can do yourself to lower your auto insurance premium.
1. __________________________________________________________
2. __________________________________________________________
3. __________________________________________________________
4. __________________________________________________________
5. __________________________________________________________
Appendix Select Activities from the Book
Page 246 of 255
Please go through the following 3 life stages and identify all of the types of insurance that you will
want and need during that stage; yes, you can list types of insurance coverage more than once.
What types of insurance coverage will you need during your start-up days?
________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________
What types of insurance coverage will you need during your early years of working, when
you’re single with no children?
________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________
What types of insurance coverage will you need during your mid-years of working, when
you’re married with 2 or 3 children?
________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________
Appendix Select Activities from the Book
Page 247 of 255
Which of the follow options do you prefer?
(A) Begin saving for retirement when you’re 22 years old, saving $4,519 a year for 40
years and retiring at 62 with $2,000,000.
(B) Begin saving for retirement when you’re 32 years old, saving $12,158 a year
for 30 years and retiring at age 62 with $2,000,000.
(C) Begin saving for retirement when you’re 42 years old, saving $34,919 a year for 20
years and retiring at age 62 with $2,000,000.
(D) Begin saving for retirement when you’re 52 years old, saving $125,491 a year
for 10 years and retiring at age 62 with $2,000,000.
(E) Working forever.
Appendix Select Activities from the Book
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Fill in the table by listing these 5 expenses and by listing the amount you spent on each. Then, in the
far-right column, do the math and figure out how many hours of work you will save simply by
avoiding or reducing that discretionary expense. And then add up the two columns to get Totals.
List 5 Avoidable Expenses
Money
Saved
Hours of
Work Saved
1. __________________________________________ $ ____________ ____________ hours
2. __________________________________________ $ ____________ ____________ hours
3. __________________________________________ $ ____________ ____________ hours
4. __________________________________________ $ ____________ ____________ hours
5. __________________________________________ $ ____________ ____________ hours
==============================================================
TOTAL SAVINGS $
Money Saved Hours of Work Saved
Appendix Select Activities from the Book
Page 249 of 255
Go through this list and rank them in terms of their importance to you – with 1 representing the
most important item to you and with 10 representing the least important item to you.
____________ Saving $5,000 to purchase a car in 4 years.
____________ Buying $100 of lottery tickets.
____________ Paying your bills on time to increase your credit score.
____________ Paying $1,000 a month to rent a nicer apartment.
____________ Paying $100 a month for adequate auto insurance.
____________ Giving $100 a month to a family member.
____________ Investing $100 a month to a retirement account.
____________ Giving $100 a month to charity.
____________ Paying $200 for some amazing new shoes.
____________ Opening a savings account and committing to save $50 a month.
Appendix Select Activities from the Book
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Think about your goals and dreams for your future. What do you want to do? What do you want to
achieve? What do you picture for your future?
In 1 year, I want to: ________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________________
In 5 years, I want to: ________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________________
In 10 years, I want to: ________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________________
Appendix Select Activities from the Book
Page 251 of 255
What money habits would help you achieve the financial goals above?
In the next 1 year, I could build a habit of: ______________________________
__________________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________________
In the next 5 years, I could build a habit of: ______________________________
__________________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________________
In the next 10 years, I could build a habit of: ______________________________
__________________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________________
Appendix Select Activities from the Book
Page 252 of 255
Try to come up with 5-10 things you can do in the next 6 months to improve your financial fitness.
Can you create an emergency fund? Can you decrease your credit card balance? Can you earn a little
extra income? Can you change your spending habits? Can you map out your short- and long-term
goals? Can you save more? What can you do in the next 6 months?
1. _____________________________________________________________
2. _____________________________________________________________
3. _____________________________________________________________
4. _____________________________________________________________
5. _____________________________________________________________
6. _____________________________________________________________
7. _____________________________________________________________
8. _____________________________________________________________
9. _____________________________________________________________
10. _____________________________________________________________
Appendix Select Activities from the Book
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MY ALL-TME FAVORITE FINANCIAL PLANNING EXERCISE
What does retirement look like to you? Tell the full story of your retirement…
When do you retire? Where will you live? Who are you with? What do you do?
Think about other issues, such as health, hobbies, work, travel, charity and relationships.
In the space below, tell the full story of your retirement…and then make a plan to make it happen.
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
Appendix Select Activities from the Book
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______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
CONGRATULATIONS!
IF YOU CAN APPLY AND MASTER 10% OF WHAT YOU HAVE
COVERED IN THIS BOOK, YOU WILL BE AHEAD OF 75% OF ALL
AMERICANS.
AND YOU WILL BE WELL ON YOUR WAY TO OWNING YOUR
FINANCIAL FUTURE.
IF YOU CAN APPLY AND MASTER 80% OF WHAT YOU HAVE
COVERED IN THIS BOOK, YOU WILL INDEED OWN YOUR
FINANCIAL FUTURE.
Keep living these principles and these goals.
Share what you have learned with your family and friends.
Make adjustments to your plan when situations change.
Make adjustments to your plan when your goals change.
Own your financial future starting now.
Let money be a force that empowers you, not a weight that burdens you.
Live your life. Do not live anyone else’s life.
The more you own your financial future, the more you will be able to fully
live the life you want to live.
Be proud of yourself.
Celebrate your success.
Celebrate your accomplishments.
Enjoy the journey.
Live a great life.